Computers & Electronics

Android Box reacts to Hisense TV Remote -- How Can I Fix This?

  • Last Updated:
  • Mar 15th, 2019 5:15 pm
[OP]
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lead wrote:
Mar 15th, 2019 4:48 pm
powering off the tvbox shouldn't really be an issue nor even warranted. Arguably all your doing is telling the tvbox to turn off the hdmi display. If you were to check power consumption thats about all its doing maybe killing usb too. But a box running around 5 watts will idle down on its own. Your saving maybe a watt.
I get what you're saying, but we hate wasting electricity regardless of the amount. It's a thing.
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TheHans wrote:
Mar 15th, 2019 4:57 pm
I get what you're saying, but we hate wasting electricity regardless of the amount. It's a thing.
well once you added that usb mini transceiver. Killing hdmi isn't saving you any power. Your talking like 50 milliamps killing hdmi.The led light consumes about the same or maybe like 20 milliamps. But its like +100 milliamps for the usb transciever. Maybe alot more if it feels real hot if you touch it.

Yard stick of measurement 5v@.5amps=2.5w.

Plus the crappy power bricks that come with cheap andridbox. They draw more phantom than well rated ones doing nothing.

If you were really concerned with power consumption. You buy a firestick first generation and power it off the usb of your tv(use a really short cable). Thats the lowest power consuming, 24/7, supporting hd netflix device that can run kodi available. No phantom power from psu brick and when the tv is off the 1st gen firestick is completely off.

You could run a rpi zero off the tv usb too. They work fine for upto 1080p/no netflix.
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TheHans wrote:
Mar 15th, 2019 4:44 pm
Based on the solution I'm using, it's clear now that for whatever reason, the Hisense TV remote is on the same IR frequency as the box's own remote. I doubt this issue is unique to me. IR functionality is extremely popular after all. Due to this, I was surprised I couldn't find an app that could alter the IR frequency of an Android device. Since there are plenty of apps that can act as an IR remote, what I needed didn't seem like much of a stretch. And after all, the frequency only has to be different for one of the devices, not both. So as long as one of the offending devices is Android, it would be useful. Someone with more programming smarts than me should design one. And if it's you, I get it for free for being the one with the idea. :-)
AFAIK, the frequency for most consumer devices is all the same. It's the encoding/modulation/protocol that's gotten muddled up. There's supposed to be a standard for these things, which is why "universal remotes" exist, with their booklet of codes to try. If I was a betting man, I'd bet that your Android box remote is a poorly designed piece of Chinese electronics that doesn't support the standards that exist, just so they could save $0.05 per unit by having poor quality control. Which is why I suggested a remote that's designed to be used with multiple devices.

But hey, if you have a fix, it's all good...

BTW, you can take a look through this post, where they use an analogy to explain how the signals are sent. TLDR version: there's actually two frequencies that are being used. The frequency of the IR signal itself (in the 300+GHz region), and pulses of information being sent, which is in the 30 - 56KHz region. But I still think the issue is that cheap ass Android remote is sending out an unclear signal to the TV, which is causing the TV to interpret the IR message as being for it, even though it's not. It works fine for the Android box, so the manufacturer of the box doesn't care if it mucks up any other devices with it's unclear signal.

Just my $0.02... I'll bow out now :)

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