Anyone need Plumbing help or advice
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- Mar 26th, 2024 9:55 pm
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- Ginzasix
- Member
- May 7, 2017
- 422 posts
- 223 upvotes
- Zamboni
- Deal Fanatic
- Oct 19, 2008
- 7407 posts
- 2998 upvotes
- Whitby
Take another pic from a lower angle. Looks like there is a drop of solder on the bottom of the cinch ring (doesn't look like water) Possibly the original installer crimped the ring twice and thats what the "solder" mark is.
- denbo30
- Jr. Member
- Mar 25, 2010
- 149 posts
- 99 upvotes
- Ottawa
I have a 3 story house built in 90's on municipal services, water heater is in the basement. Here's our issue(s)
1. When you turn on any tap in the house, the hot water is instant and is in fact sometimes too hot and then after a few seconds it will get tolerable. The water pressure is quite strong.
2. If one tap is running anywhere in the house, any other tap will not get hot water for about a minute and then it will just be luke warm at best. When the second tap (any one in the house) is turned completely to hot, it starts to squeal.
3. When we run the washer which is also in the basement, when it initially is filling up with water, gets a high pitch squeal. This happens even if it is the only water that is running.
As far as I can tell there is no recirculating pump, so the pressure is forcing hot water to all taps. You would think it would cool down especially the ones on the second floor furthest away from the hot water tank but the hot water is instant. As convenient as this sounds, it does limit use to a single tap at a time.
Any ideas on what we can do or what the root cause is?
1. When you turn on any tap in the house, the hot water is instant and is in fact sometimes too hot and then after a few seconds it will get tolerable. The water pressure is quite strong.
2. If one tap is running anywhere in the house, any other tap will not get hot water for about a minute and then it will just be luke warm at best. When the second tap (any one in the house) is turned completely to hot, it starts to squeal.
3. When we run the washer which is also in the basement, when it initially is filling up with water, gets a high pitch squeal. This happens even if it is the only water that is running.
As far as I can tell there is no recirculating pump, so the pressure is forcing hot water to all taps. You would think it would cool down especially the ones on the second floor furthest away from the hot water tank but the hot water is instant. As convenient as this sounds, it does limit use to a single tap at a time.
Any ideas on what we can do or what the root cause is?
- batcave
- Deal Fanatic
- Nov 14, 2003
- 6675 posts
- 5466 upvotes
- LaLaLand
If you're going to use a sharkbite fitting, you would need to still usr a PEX tube and crimp ring on the tee because you cannot connect a sharkbite fitting to a PEX tee. Unless you are considering replacing the PEX tee, that will introduce another bunch of questions like is there enough play in the pipes to connect them after the tee is removed. If it is inside a wall, I would stick with PEX.Ginzasix wrote: ↑ Thank you so much for your help and the detail directions. It is extremely helpful, even if I end up getting a plumber to do it, at least I have an idea of how it can be done.
I thought about using a sharkbite push to connect fitting, do you think it's a good idea or just better stick with the crimp?
Thank you again!
- pootza
- Deal Fanatic
- Dec 19, 2009
- 6197 posts
- 4451 upvotes
- Manatus
- Deal Fanatic
- Mar 21, 2010
- 6737 posts
- 3998 upvotes
- Toronto
I have a bathroom with a small tub and small square shower stall back-to-back. The plumbing is all in the wall between the two (spout out to the tub side, shower to the shower side). What I want to do is take it all out and replace it with a large tub/shower combo, with the new longer tub using the drain that was previously the shower's drain. The dividing wall and everything in there would need to come down and be re-done further along. This is a condo so I'm more concerned about the plumbing aspect rather than anything cosmetic (if drains are in concrete etc.).
On a scale of "get it done already" to "absolute nightmare", how difficult does the plumbing aspect of this sound? Is it reasonably feasible?
On a scale of "get it done already" to "absolute nightmare", how difficult does the plumbing aspect of this sound? Is it reasonably feasible?
- Ginzasix
- Member
- May 7, 2017
- 422 posts
- 223 upvotes
Ah I see. I initially thought I would have to change the tee fitting prior reading your msg because I didn't know I can remove the crimp from the tee.batcave wrote: ↑ If you're going to use a sharkbite fitting, you would need to still usr a PEX tube and crimp ring on the tee because you cannot connect a sharkbite fitting to a PEX tee. Unless you are considering replacing the PEX tee, that will introduce another bunch of questions like is there enough play in the pipes to connect them after the tee is removed. If it is inside a wall, I would stick with PEX.
I have never worked with pex before so I probably will call a plumber to do so.
Do you know around how much a job like this typically cost? The pipe is located on the ceiling. I have opened a small hole on the ceiling, I'm thinking they probably need to open up the ceiling more in order to fix it.
Thank you for taking the time to answer!
- Zamboni
- Deal Fanatic
- Oct 19, 2008
- 7407 posts
- 2998 upvotes
- Whitby
An actual plumber will have a pex crimper designed to work between joists, he won't need to open the hole up much-if at all. The plumber will also have a pex crimp ring removal tool. Cost will be whatever a service call is for that company, is there an independents truck in a driveway in your neighbourhood?Ginzasix wrote: ↑ Ah I see. I initially thought I would have to change the tee fitting prior reading your msg because I didn't know I can remove the crimp from the tee.
I have never worked with pex before so I probably will call a plumber to do so.
Do you know around how much a job like this typically cost? The pipe is located on the ceiling. I have opened a small hole on the ceiling, I'm thinking they probably need to open up the ceiling more in order to fix it.
Thank you for taking the time to answer!
- Zamboni
- Deal Fanatic
- Oct 19, 2008
- 7407 posts
- 2998 upvotes
- Whitby
An actual plumber will have a pex crimper designed to work between joists, he won't need to open the hole up much-if at all. The plumber will also have a pex crimp ring removal tool. Cost will be whatever a service call is for that company, is there an independents truck in a driveway in your neighbourhood?Ginzasix wrote: ↑ Ah I see. I initially thought I would have to change the tee fitting prior reading your msg because I didn't know I can remove the crimp from the tee.
I have never worked with pex before so I probably will call a plumber to do so.
Do you know around how much a job like this typically cost? The pipe is located on the ceiling. I have opened a small hole on the ceiling, I'm thinking they probably need to open up the ceiling more in order to fix it.
Thank you for taking the time to answer!
- batcave
- Deal Fanatic
- Nov 14, 2003
- 6675 posts
- 5466 upvotes
- LaLaLand
As Zamboni said, whatever the charge for a plumber is.Ginzasix wrote: ↑ Ah I see. I initially thought I would have to change the tee fitting prior reading your msg because I didn't know I can remove the crimp from the tee.
I have never worked with pex before so I probably will call a plumber to do so.
Do you know around how much a job like this typically cost? The pipe is located on the ceiling. I have opened a small hole on the ceiling, I'm thinking they probably need to open up the ceiling more in order to fix it.
Thank you for taking the time to answer!
If I were to do this myself, I don't think it would take me more than 20 minutes. The tools and parts will be about $100. You can skip the removal tool if you have a Dremel with a cutting wheel. However, if you've not done it before, get the removal tool.
- Ginzasix
- Member
- May 7, 2017
- 422 posts
- 223 upvotes
Ah I see! I have not deal with pipes or plumber before so not sure about the rate. Having the information is very helpful indeed, thank you so much! I tried sending in pictures and getting quotes from plumbing companies but they all said they don't give quotes over emails as they will need to come look at it. I feel bad if they come and I say no to fixing it that's why I want to get a ballpark.Zamboni wrote: ↑ An actual plumber will have a pex crimper designed to work between joists, he won't need to open the hole up much-if at all. The plumber will also have a pex crimp ring removal tool. Cost will be whatever a service call is for that company, is there an independents truck in a driveway in your neighbourhood?
Hmm, not independent, but there is a Milani in the area. I personally don't know any independent plumber though, but am open to getting one if there's a good one.
- Ginzasix
- Member
- May 7, 2017
- 422 posts
- 223 upvotes
Thank you so much! That's really good to know around how long the job should take and how much the tools and part will be.batcave wrote: ↑ As Zamboni said, whatever the charge for a plumber is.
If I were to do this myself, I don't think it would take me more than 20 minutes. The tools and parts will be about $100. You can skip the removal tool if you have a Dremel with a cutting wheel. However, if you've not done it before, get the removal tool.
No, I don't have any of those. And I wonder how likely I will need to use these tools again. Probably best to get the professional to do it.
Thank you!
- Super_Chicken
- Deal Addict
- Sep 4, 2005
- 4117 posts
- 2267 upvotes
- Toronto
When you're calling for quotes and they say they need to come in person. Ask them what their minimum charge is for and if it's for 30 or 60 mins. Any plumber can fix this within half an hour.
If there is enough extra in the leaking line, it's like a 10 minute fix.
- Ginzasix
- Member
- May 7, 2017
- 422 posts
- 223 upvotes
Thank you so much for this! I will be sure to ask about it.Super_Chicken wrote: ↑ When you're calling for quotes and they say they need to come in person. Ask them what their minimum charge is for and if it's for 30 or 60 mins. Any plumber can fix this within half an hour.
If there is enough extra in the leaking line, it's like a 10 minute fix.
One place replied and said there is an evaluation fee of $89 to send out a technician. If they end up doing the work then they will waive the $89. I mean I still don't know how much the whole thing will cost unless they come in person. I'll be out at least $89 if I end up not getting them to do the work.
- pootza
- Deal Fanatic
- Dec 19, 2009
- 6197 posts
- 4451 upvotes
Why would someone send out a tech and pay them for their time to quote some piddly-ass job that would take less than an hour to fix and not expect to be paid for that time?Ginzasix wrote: ↑ Thank you so much for this! I will be sure to ask about it.
One place replied and said there is an evaluation fee of $89 to send out a technician. If they end up doing the work then they will waive the $89. I mean I still don't know how much the whole thing will cost unless they come in person. I'll be out at least $89 if I end up not getting them to do the work.
- Ginzasix
- Member
- May 7, 2017
- 422 posts
- 223 upvotes
No, I agree that if they were to come even just for a quote they should be paid for that.
I'm just saying in the reply from the plumbing company that there's no way to find out how much is the rate for their techs, as they have only mentioned evaluation fee.
- gr8dlr
- Deal Expert
- Sep 1, 2005
- 21702 posts
- 17374 upvotes
- Markham
I think that $89 is equal to the first hour fee. If they can finish in one hour, you evaluation fee is the total cost. You could've asked them that.
We're all bozos on the bus until we find a way to express ourselves...
Failure is always an option...just not the preferred one!
Failure is always an option...just not the preferred one!
- Sunway
- Deal Addict
- Sep 18, 2019
- 1228 posts
- 1020 upvotes
I have a builder installed Moen shower tub / shower unit about 10 years ago. I am planning to update it with another Moen unit.
Base on the attached Moen Q&A and the screws position, I am assuming it's the type 4 Posi-Temp Shower Valve. Is anything else I need to check to confirm it's a same valve?
Thanks in advance.
https://solutions.moen.com/Article_Libr ... 0operation.
Base on the attached Moen Q&A and the screws position, I am assuming it's the type 4 Posi-Temp Shower Valve. Is anything else I need to check to confirm it's a same valve?
Thanks in advance.
https://solutions.moen.com/Article_Libr ... 0operation.
- pootza
- Deal Fanatic
- Dec 19, 2009
- 6197 posts
- 4451 upvotes
The Type 3: Moentrol Shower Valve: Introduced 1976 has the screws in the same location.Sunway wrote: ↑ I have a builder installed Moen shower tub / shower unit about 10 years ago. I am planning to update it with another Moen unit.
Base on the attached Moen Q&A and the screws position, I am assuming it's the type 4 Posi-Temp Shower Valve. Is anything else I need to check to confirm it's a same valve?
Thanks in advance.
https://solutions.moen.com/Article_Libr ... 0operation.
- gr8dlr
- Deal Expert
- Sep 1, 2005
- 21702 posts
- 17374 upvotes
- Markham
I find these temperature balance knobs like Posi-temp cartridge/valve problematic over time because you never move em. Is it good practice to periodically turn em all the way one way and all the way the other way so nothing freezes? If you never turn that temp balance knob, I find it kind of starts to freeze up.
We're all bozos on the bus until we find a way to express ourselves...
Failure is always an option...just not the preferred one!
Failure is always an option...just not the preferred one!
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