Home & Garden

Anyone need Plumbing help or advice

  • Last Updated:
  • Nov 15th, 2020 11:31 pm
Tags:
None
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
5115 posts
2529 upvotes
pardnme wrote: ahhh...i thought i was being smart!

okay fine...i'll cut hole on the powder room side....

Do i actually need the AAV in a box? or can I just have it on the abs pipe in the wall cavity?
I'm assuming I can use a return air grille cover hide the aav
The manufactured box/grill box or just an air grill would suffice . Just make sure that it’s not less than 6” above any insulation
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
Feb 22, 2007
1944 posts
216 upvotes
Mississauga
Red_Army wrote: The manufactured box/grill box or just an air grill would suffice . Just make sure that it’s not less than 6” above any insulation

I dont understand that restriction...

but that wall is an interior wall...and as displayed in my of my original photos...there is no insulation in that wall...
the main floor is 8 ft ceiling...i plan on taking this cheater valve to about the 7 ft mark
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
5115 posts
2529 upvotes
pardnme wrote: I dont understand that restriction...

but that wall is an interior wall...and as displayed in my of my original photos...there is no insulation in that wall...
the main floor is 8 ft ceiling...i plan on taking this cheater valve to about the 7 ft mark
If its surrounded by insulation then it won’t get proper air flow. This doesn’t apply to you obviously, just though I’d mention it as many people are installing roxul in walls and ceiling now a days for sound absorption
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
5115 posts
2529 upvotes
No.6 wrote: Thanks OP what's your opinion on those auto sensing / touch kitchen faucets? we are thinking about replacing ours, such as this one from Lowes
https://www.lowes.ca/product/kitchen-fa ... cet-672119
but it seems that the reviews are mixed. some people said it will turn on/off randomly and that really scares us.
Thanks again.
Some people like them but personally I think they’re a cheap gimmick for the most part in a home setting. Delta is the most common brand that I’ve installed and it’s all cheap plastic, same with moen . I’ve seen problems with them as well but that’s usually related to improper installation in regards to the isolation ring. Make sure you have spare batteries (it’s does warn you when they’re getting low) but if you wait too long to change them the faucet will not operate at all.

Like anything we buy now a days the more complicated they make things the higher probability for things to go wrong. Some work well, others will have issues. Such as life
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Jr. Member
Mar 9, 2013
107 posts
43 upvotes
BC
Hi Red_Army,

thanks again for your help, the toto drake fits like a glove in a 11.25" rough in, in fact, I like the way it is closer to the wall than my other proper 12" rough in (also new install).

However, one of the toilets has a very slow leak (less than one drop of water per day) at the left tank bolt. I have a reason to believe the tank & bowl were not put together as per toto intructions by the plumber. According to the drake installation manual, the bolt & rubber washer go inside the tank, and immediately outside the tank, there is a metal washer and a nut. Then the tank is to rest on the bowl, secured by another set of metal washer and nut under the bowl. So my understanding of the "stacking" from top to bottom is :
bolt - rubber washer - TANK - metal washer - nut - BOWL - metal washer - nut

The way the plumber installed the toilets is:
bolt - metal washer - rubber washer - TANK - BOWL - metal washer - nut
so he only used 2 metal washers and 1 nut per hole.

This is view from top, looks like bolt, metal washer, rubber washer
4BCF6EF4-BFFB-4B41-9467-F2963EECE64D.jpeg
side view between tank & bowl, nothing but bolt thread:
621C502D-8DF1-4B03-B385-2F9A5795AC91.jpeg

I am no plumber but it does not make sense to rely on the metal washer under the bowl to "squeeze tight" the rubber washer "above" the tank surface. I have already reported the leak to the plumber (not his boss) and he will be back later today. He is helpful as he is just started with this boss 2 weeks ago.

Here are my questions:
1) is there a problem with the plumber's installation sequence (nothing between the tank and bowl)?
2) if it is indeed a bad install, how should I call him out on this, in a nice way? As I want him to reinstall 2 toilets including the one that is not leaking (also installed the same way) according to toto drake instructions.

any advice appreciated!
Jr. Member
Mar 9, 2013
107 posts
43 upvotes
BC
jonnyb wrote: 7085FABA-152C-403A-AFBB-C99622C67F84.png

Thanks for the information, this exact diagram is the basis to believe my plumber installed not per toto instructions, so the next question is how to ask him to redo the work? i.e. how to challenge a pro in his field of supposed-expertise from a woman who can't even turn the shutoff valve?
Deal Addict
User avatar
Dec 27, 2007
1211 posts
611 upvotes
Oshawa
You aren’t challenging anything. The work was done incorrectly. If he is a pro, he will correct his mistake and thank you for catching it.
nebiopassat wrote: Thanks for the information, this exact diagram is the basis to believe my plumber installed not per toto instructions, so the next question is how to ask him to redo the work? i.e. how to challenge a pro in his field of supposed-expertise from a woman who can't even turn the shutoff valve?
Jr. Member
Mar 9, 2013
107 posts
43 upvotes
BC
In the process of redoing the tank install, the toilet shutoff valve broke. It the "multi-turn" type of valve. There was slow/no water, when the plumber flushed the line, pieces of plastic came out and the valve does not shutoff). He has to come back again with a pex crimp tool to replace it.
Just out of curiousity and future reference (as I have 5 other shutoff valves in the home), I searched the web and saw this type of repair kit. I am wondering do these things work? If they don't, why are they selling it? if they do work, why do the plumber need to replace the whole valve?

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/brassc ... 1001386569

I even have a wilder idea of leave the old pex shutoff in the fully open position (so that I don't need to deal with the pex side of things) and screw a new shutoff valve to the end that goes up to the toilet. Do they make valve for this type of connection?
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
5115 posts
2529 upvotes
nebiopassat wrote: In the process of redoing the tank install, the toilet shutoff valve broke. It the "multi-turn" type of valve. There was slow/no water, when the plumber flushed the line, pieces of plastic came out and the valve does not shutoff). He has to come back again with a pex crimp tool to replace it.
Just out of curiousity and future reference (as I have 5 other shutoff valves in the home), I searched the web and saw this type of repair kit. I am wondering do these things work? If they don't, why are they selling it? if they do work, why do the plumber need to replace the whole valve?

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/brassc ... 1001386569

I even have a wilder idea of leave the old pex shutoff in the fully open position (so that I don't need to deal with the pex side of things) and screw a new shutoff valve to the end that goes up to the toilet. Do they make valve for this type of connection?
Is he replacing it with a 1/4” ball valve? There’s no need to replace a multi turn valve as you can just replace the packing as you pictured. This plumber doesent sounds like he’s very experienced
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Member
Mar 1, 2017
329 posts
107 upvotes
Hey - 6 months after steam shower complete I have efflorescence outside of the shower and cracked grout inside the shower. At what point is this cause for alarm? A GC came by and said it was likely due to the grout not being sealed - which he did. Efflorescence still happening. Any advice?
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
5115 posts
2529 upvotes
mikefly wrote: Hey - 6 months after steam shower complete I have efflorescence outside of the shower and cracked grout inside the shower. At what point is this cause for alarm? A GC came by and said it was likely due to the grout not being sealed - which he did. Efflorescence still happening. Any advice?
Here’s a good read that will explain much better than I can http://www.mapei.com/public/US/linedocu ... nce_EN.pdf

I think Sealing the grout now will only make it worse
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Newbie
May 21, 2018
52 posts
4 upvotes
Hey great thread! Thanks for your efforts! I’m having issues with my basement toilet and not flushing properly. Removed the toilet and snaked the drain. Dumped a large bucket of water as fast as I could down the toilet and it all drained but didn’t not seem to have a strong push. Eventually replaced the toilet and same deal... upstairs toilet flushes fine. Water level in the bowl is extremely low. any insights are appreciated!
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
5115 posts
2529 upvotes
Fnyguy wrote: Hey great thread! Thanks for your efforts! I’m having issues with my basement toilet and not flushing properly. Removed the toilet and snaked the drain. Dumped a large bucket of water as fast as I could down the toilet and it all drained but didn’t not seem to have a strong push. Eventually replaced the toilet and same deal... upstairs toilet flushes fine. Water level in the bowl is extremely low. any insights are appreciated!
Sounds like the toilet drain wasn’t vented which is causing the siphoning, but there could also be backfall on the drain. If it ties into the same line as the upstairs and the upstairs works fine it’s likely because it has more of a vertical drop/push. Have someone flush the upstairs toilet while you watch the water in the bowl downstairs and see if there is fluctuation
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide

Top