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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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Newbie
Jun 22, 2008
73 posts
8 upvotes
Have a 2 story 100yr old home (just under 1000sq ft footprint, centre hall design with a rad system for heating) . We have a 10+ yr old ductless LG unit that's split between the ground floor and the master bedroom, the configuration keeps the ground floor cool enough (could be cooler) but the other (2) bedrooms are really hot in the summer (and could be warmer in the winter) . Looks like everyone will be home again this summer, so looking for a whole house cooling option (with the ability to close doors).

Wondering if we should go:

1) the attic cassette route for the bedrooms and use it with the existing ductless to cool the ground floor.
2) New ductless split unit for the 2 bedrooms for cooling (and backup heat in the winter, apparently newer ductless have a heat option?) + upgrade the bedroom/ground floor unit

The windows are relatively new (if that makes a difference) wondering what the most cost effective and energy efficient option would be.

Thanks!
Deal Addict
Nov 14, 2006
3149 posts
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GTA
sumo500 wrote: Have a 2 story 100yr old home (just under 1000sq ft footprint, centre hall design with a rad system for heating) . We have a 10+ yr old ductless LG unit that's split between the ground floor and the master bedroom, the configuration keeps the ground floor cool enough (could be cooler) but the other (2) bedrooms are really hot in the summer (and could be warmer in the winter) . Looks like everyone will be home again this summer, so looking for a whole house cooling option (with the ability to close doors).

Wondering if we should go:

1) the attic cassette route for the bedrooms and use it with the existing ductless to cool the ground floor.
2) New ductless split unit for the 2 bedrooms for cooling (and backup heat in the winter, apparently newer ductless have a heat option?) + upgrade the bedroom/ground floor unit

The windows are relatively new (if that makes a difference) wondering what the most cost effective and energy efficient option would be.

Thanks!
Whatever you decide get a heat loss calculation done , then get a price for central air install. Natural gas furnace with AC just so you have a price for that as well.
Newbie
Feb 18, 2021
7 posts
3 upvotes
Just moving into a new townhouse and had some questions. Home inspector said the hot water heater has to be replaced (we did anticipate this). However, it is a 'combination' system where the hot water tank and air handler are combined (not a true furnace?). The hot water tank is rented from Reliance for $37/month. I have no experience with this system and had some questions. Pictures are attached. The air handler is the one that came with the house in 2004 - how long can we expect the air handler to last? Should it be replaced at the same time as the hot water tank? How much should we expect it to cost if replacing the air handler alone, or replacing both air handler/hot water tank at the same time?

Should we continue renting the hot water tank or buy it out? Consensus on RFD seems to be buying it out but I wonder whether the install cost will be significantly higher due to the combination system.

The air conditioner was noted as 17 years old but did not need replacement yet. Would it be easier to replace at the same time though? Or should we wait until it stops working?

Also a rudimentary explanation of how this system works would be very helpful - based off of my research it looks like it can be described as hydronic?
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Sep 27, 2006
5968 posts
2752 upvotes
Not so easy there Ma…
mdnc123 wrote: Just moving into a new townhouse and had some questions. Home inspector said the hot water heater has to be replaced (we did anticipate this). However, it is a 'combination' system where the hot water tank and air handler are combined (not a true furnace?). The hot water tank is rented from Reliance for $37/month. I have no experience with this system and had some questions. Pictures are attached. The air handler is the one that came with the house in 2004 - how long can we expect the air handler to last? Should it be replaced at the same time as the hot water tank? How much should we expect it to cost if replacing the air handler alone, or replacing both air handler/hot water tank at the same time?

Should we continue renting the hot water tank or buy it out? Consensus on RFD seems to be buying it out but I wonder whether the install cost will be significantly higher due to the combination system.

The air conditioner was noted as 17 years old but did not need replacement yet. Would it be easier to replace at the same time though? Or should we wait until it stops working?

Also a rudimentary explanation of how this system works would be very helpful - based off of my research it looks like it can be described as hydronic?

IMG_20210213_101213.jpgIMG_20210213_101143.jpgIMG_20210213_101053.jpgIMG_20210213_101045.jpg
After 10 years you should be get out of the Reliance rental at no cost but the tank needs to be returned. If you go the buyout route the value of the tank should drop to zero after 15 years. I can't help you with the combo questions.
Deal Addict
Jun 16, 2009
4517 posts
3449 upvotes
Vaughan
Since you have a "Combi" system, you need a high input tank like you have one. 62000 BTU tank should cost you in range of 2K including installation. However when tank breaks, you will also have no heat.
Since the tank is used for heating and as water heater, life expectancy reduces considerably. Air handlers last anywhere from 8-15 years , however there is no need to change it unless it starts leaking. Air handler cost should be in mid 3K but a lot depends upon complications on job which are unique to every house.
AC - Hang on to it till you can till its working. No need to replace it just because its old.

mdnc123 wrote: Just moving into a new townhouse and had some questions. Home inspector said the hot water heater has to be replaced (we did anticipate this). However, it is a 'combination' system where the hot water tank and air handler are combined (not a true furnace?). The hot water tank is rented from Reliance for $37/month. I have no experience with this system and had some questions. Pictures are attached. The air handler is the one that came with the house in 2004 - how long can we expect the air handler to last? Should it be replaced at the same time as the hot water tank? How much should we expect it to cost if replacing the air handler alone, or replacing both air handler/hot water tank at the same time?

Should we continue renting the hot water tank or buy it out? Consensus on RFD seems to be buying it out but I wonder whether the install cost will be significantly higher due to the combination system.

The air conditioner was noted as 17 years old but did not need replacement yet. Would it be easier to replace at the same time though? Or should we wait until it stops working?

Also a rudimentary explanation of how this system works would be very helpful - based off of my research it looks like it can be described as hydronic?

IMG_20210213_101213.jpgIMG_20210213_101143.jpgIMG_20210213_101053.jpgIMG_20210213_101045.jpg
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Jr. Member
Jan 19, 2008
129 posts
150 upvotes
Toronto
Have a question for the HVAC enthusiasts in the room. Recently moved into my girlfriends townhouse and noticed airflow through some of the vents is low when the heating is on and the furnace running quite loud. I heard filters could be restricting airflow so I changed to a new filter (Filtrete Allergen Defense - MPR900) and noticed much better airflow and quieter furnace. However, after a week or two, the airflow will again reduce and the furnace will start running loud again. I checked the filter and its spotless.

Any thoughts on this? Should I go down to a much lower MPR filter? We also have an HRV which is on.
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Mar 13, 2004
13840 posts
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Ontario
What brand & model is the furnace? Could it be 2 stage and since the temps are warming up its staying in 1st stage which is why you notice less airflow?
iownyou14 wrote: Have a question for the HVAC enthusiasts in the room. Recently moved into my girlfriends townhouse and noticed airflow through some of the vents is low when the heating is on and the furnace running quite loud. I heard filters could be restricting airflow so I changed to a new filter (Filtrete Allergen Defense - MPR900) and noticed much better airflow and quieter furnace. However, after a week or two, the airflow will again reduce and the furnace will start running loud again. I checked the filter and its spotless.

Any thoughts on this? Should I go down to a much lower MPR filter? We also have an HRV which is on.
Jr. Member
Jan 19, 2008
129 posts
150 upvotes
Toronto
sickcars wrote: What brand & model is the furnace? Could it be 2 stage and since the temps are warming up its staying in 1st stage which is why you notice less airflow?
Lennox EL195UHE
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Jun 16, 2009
4517 posts
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Vaughan
Thats a single stage furnace but equipped with ECM motor. You really need to determine if the noise is coming from the upper compartment or the lower one.
Upper compartment has ventor motor and lower compartment has blower motor. Nonetheless you should not have any reduction in the airflow unless there is an issue with filter in winter and /or AC coil freezing up in summer.
iownyou14 wrote: Lennox EL195UHE
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Jr. Member
Jan 19, 2008
129 posts
150 upvotes
Toronto
newlyborn wrote: Thats a single stage furnace but equipped with ECM motor. You really need to determine if the noise is coming from the upper compartment or the lower one.
Upper compartment has ventor motor and lower compartment has blower motor. Nonetheless you should not have any reduction in the airflow unless there is an issue with filter in winter and /or AC coil freezing up in summer.
Sounds like its coming from the lower compartment. Just sounds like the blower is working on overdrive. Same sound before I changed the filter the last time.
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Oct 19, 2020
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iownyou14 wrote: Have a question for the HVAC enthusiasts in the room. Recently moved into my girlfriends townhouse and noticed airflow through some of the vents is low when the heating is on and the furnace running quite loud. I heard filters could be restricting airflow so I changed to a new filter (Filtrete Allergen Defense - MPR900) and noticed much better airflow and quieter furnace. However, after a week or two, the airflow will again reduce and the furnace will start running loud again. I checked the filter and its spotless.

Any thoughts on this? Should I go down to a much lower MPR filter? We also have an HRV which is on.
Those 1" filtrete allergen filters are horrendous - they start out okay, but plug up quick..
They're "furnace killers".
They can look clean but still restrict airflow because the tiny particles they filter out plug the holes in the material.

I've witnessed this first hand and also seen videos showing measurements demonstrating that a seemingly clean looking 1" allergen filter is literally as bad as having a piece of plywood in the filter slot.

To confirm its the problem, remove the filter with it running and see if the noise goes down/airflow goes back to normal.

Home depot sells a pack of three MERV 6 pleated filters for $15 - try those.
If the same problem occurs, try a $10 washable which is a step below the merv 6s but far better than fiberglass.

If you want good filtration without killing the furnace, have a 4 to 5" thick media filter installed.
Hvac advice warning - inaccurate information on forum, vested interests in selling builder's equipment. Selling dealer-only brands without being authorized is a red flag. Report to CRA if offered no tax cash-deal. If it's 2 good to b tru, it is.
Newbie
User avatar
Jan 19, 2015
18 posts
43 upvotes
Anyone have a trustworthy supplier/installer in the Montreal area they could recommend? Looking for HVAC install for a wall-mounted unit 18000 btu and looking for the best price.
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Mar 13, 2004
13840 posts
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Ontario
Try a few of the suggestions posted above for you and if that does not work then i would make a video and post it but like Newlyborn said it could be the blower motor that's in the bottom compartment if that's the case hopefully its not going bad but this could be your warning sign before it completely fails so dont wait to long.
iownyou14 wrote: Lennox EL195UHE
Jr. Member
Jan 19, 2008
129 posts
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Toronto
Thanks for the suggestions. I’m going to grab lower rated filters to see how it goes. Much appreciated.
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Apr 17, 2005
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Kitchener
I had my furnace replaced and they "upgraded" my filter to an aprilaire air cleaner 1420 or something for free that uses 5" proprietary filter. Is that actually better than my old 1" standard filter slot? Are genetic replacement filters available?

They replaced the air return boot(?) To accommodate the air cleaner But now there are gaps in the sheet metal. Is that a big deal? Should I tape them up or complain?

Somehow, my second floor bathroom vent switch is now reversed (up is off, down is on). How did that happen??

The new thermostat is also not as good as my old one. Old one has touch screen and is more programmable. Can I put the old one back in? Old furnace is single stage and new one is 2 stage. Do the thermostat have to be compatible?
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Deal Addict
Jun 16, 2009
4517 posts
3449 upvotes
Vaughan
Thundercloud wrote: I had my furnace replaced and they "upgraded" my filter to an aprilaire air cleaner 1420 or something for free that uses 5" proprietary filter. Is that actually better than my old 1" standard filter slot? Are genetic replacement filters available?
Its good to have 5" filter as it gives less restriction to air flow. You can use generic Merv 11 filters as log as the size is same

They replaced the air return boot(?) To accommodate the air cleaner But now there are gaps in the sheet metal. Is that a big deal? Should I tape them up or complain?
You can tape the gap yourself or call the installer back.

Somehow, my second floor bathroom vent switch is now reversed (up is off, down is on). How did that happen??
Have you checked the other switch generally located on first floor if that is now on a different position than earlier?

The new thermostat is also not as good as my old one. Old one has touch screen and is more programmable. Can I put the old one back in? Old furnace is single stage and new one is 2 stage. Do the thermostat have to be compatible?
Is your new thermostat wired for two stage? Did you got extra wiring pulled? If answer is No, then it doesn't make difference what thermostat you use. It acts just like a switch.
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Apr 17, 2005
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newlyborn wrote: Its good to have 5" filter as it gives less restriction to air flow. You can use generic Merv 11 filters as log as the size is same
The Aprilaire 1410 unit uses accordion like (collapsible) filters with plastic tabs that slide into the housing at the top and bottom. I can't seem to figure out what'd fit from light googling. A set of 2 filters are $125 and each filter is supposed to last a year. So more expensive than using 1".
You can tape the gap yourself or call the installer back.
I guess that'd affect air circulation right? Okay.
Have you checked the other switch generally located on first floor if that is now on a different position than earlier?
That's the only switch in the house that got flipped. Pretty weird.
Is your new thermostat wired for two stage? Did you got extra wiring pulled? If answer is No, then it doesn't make difference what thermostat you use. It acts just like a switch.
I don't know... Is there a way to tell? The new thermostat is battery powered. Could they have switched the power cable to signal instead or something?
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Deal Addict
Jun 16, 2009
4517 posts
3449 upvotes
Vaughan
I am sorry but none of your answers make any sense ( at least to me ) in order to help you further. Maybe you wanna post some pic's if you are unable to describe the issues properly.
Did you tried contacting your installer to have your issues rectified??
Thundercloud wrote: The Aprilaire 1410 unit uses accordion like (collapsible) filters with plastic tabs that slide into the housing at the top and bottom. I can't seem to figure out what'd fit from light googling. A set of 2 filters are $125 and each filter is supposed to last a year. So more expensive than using 1".
I guess that'd affect air circulation right? Okay.
That's the only switch in the house that got flipped. Pretty weird.
I don't know... Is there a way to tell? The new thermostat is battery powered. Could they have switched the power cable to signal instead or something?
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newlyborn wrote: I am sorry but none of your answers make any sense ( at least to me ) in order to help you further. Maybe you wanna post some pic's if you are unable to describe the issues properly.
Did you tried contacting your installer to have your issues rectified??
Thank you for your patience.
Filter: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Exh3X3 ... p=drivesdk
Do cheaper, generic replacements filters for this "Aprilaire 1410 Air Cleaner" housing exist? Is it a better form factor than 1" filters?

Are gaps like these a big deal / worth complaining about?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_-nfgY ... p=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDv6QH ... p=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qm3mLr ... p=drivesdk

One switch's position was flipped: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aFtWml ... p=drivesdk
All the other switches in the house seem normal. I'm just wondering what could have caused this to happen?

Thermostat: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ynctpd ... p=drivesdk
I want to confirm whether the new Thermostat is a downgrade (no touch screen, cannot program by individual weekday) and if I should swap back to the old one.

Thank you.
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Jun 16, 2009
4517 posts
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Vaughan
Thank you for providing more details. If my answers are not clear, please feel free to call me and I will provide your better explaination.
Thundercloud wrote: Thank you for your patience.
Filter: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Exh3X3 ... p=drivesdk
Do cheaper, generic replacements filters for this "Aprilaire 1410 Air Cleaner" housing exist? Is it a better form factor than 1" filters?
5" filter gives more air flow. It can be upgraded when you are changing the furnace more easily than on existing setup. I am sure they must have made up new boot to accommodate this 5" filter. Only downside is the cost and ease to find the filters. However. you will need to change the filters less often. You will need to make sure that Generic brand filter is exactly the same size, otherwise it may not fit in the filter cabinet properly.


Are gaps like these a big deal / worth complaining about?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_-nfgY ... p=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDv6QH ... p=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qm3mLr ... p=drivesdk
These gaps can be covered by steel foil tape ( not the duct tape) and / or using this silicone for smaller gaps

One switch's position was flipped: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aFtWml ... p=drivesdk
All the other switches in the house seem normal. I'm just wondering what could have caused this to happen?

Someone in the house may have flipped. Its a two way switch. Switch in the bathroom and this switch will always be in opposite direction and its normal

Thermostat: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ynctpd ... p=drivesdk
I want to confirm whether the new Thermostat is a downgrade (no touch screen, cannot program by individual weekday) and if I should swap back to the old one.

You really have to find out how many wires are connected to thermostat. If its regular four wire setup then you will not lose anything by changing it back to your old thermostat

Thank you.
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