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Ask me anything about spray foam insulation

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May 1, 2016
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We're doing renovations on my cottage (basically building a new one) and we have an issue with caked spray foam insulation on the windows and window frames. We've tried acetone to take it off but without scraping and roughing up the window it won't come off.
Any recommendations?
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LostCap wrote: We're doing renovations on my cottage (basically building a new one) and we have an issue with caked spray foam insulation on the windows and window frames. We've tried acetone to take it off but without scraping and roughing up the window it won't come off.
Any recommendations?
What you can try is a penetrating lubricant such as wd-40 or bolt out. Oil based products may help but it will not look perfect. You may want to use a razor blade in combination with the lubricant to remove and finish with a very light sanding of a magic eraser. Vinyl trim would be the hardest to clean, you probably better of masking the glass sand smooth and spray paint it with a plastic friendly paint such as a krylon.

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I'm thinking about adding insulation around a skylight shaft in my attic. Is this too small of a job for a spray foam company?
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fdl wrote: I'm thinking about adding insulation around a skylight shaft in my attic. Is this too small of a job for a spray foam company?
No, it's not too small. Spray foam companies do these kind of jobs all the time. It usually takes about half a day.

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BDSL wrote: After getting quotes from 6-7 companies, I selected one company.
Throughout the process, I was very happy with this company.
I don't work for this company....
I don't want to hi jack this thread. PM me for information.
Yet you did, maroon.


Peter, do you use an extension wand (to reach 2-3ft) for garage ceiling application? I have yet to see that anywhere.
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Samwfive wrote: Yet you did, maroon.


Peter, do you use an extension wand (to reach 2-3ft) for garage ceiling application? I have yet to see that anywhere.
I’m not aware of any extension wands that go on the guns used for installing 2lb closed cell foam. I’ve heard of people trying to DIY it, but not with any good results. The problem is, an extension would get clogged up in no time and would need to be disassembled constantly. However there are attachments such as a "shoot tip"; it allows the material to be shot/sprayed at a distance of 10 to 15 feet...makes a huge mess and you have little control, so it should almost never be used on residential applications...mostly industrial with a different foam system. There’s also a tip that attaches a piece of vinyl tubing and allows you to pour the foam into a tight spot; again it’s almost never used in homes.

If you want, you can post a picture of the area you’re thinking of spraying – maybe there’s a better way to get at it.

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From your reply I think that you don't use the extension wand. I don't see how it can clog when the spray tip is extended away from the spray gun with a metal tube. Painters use this to spray prime the whole house without having to use a ladder.

I won't be DIY this. The reason I asked is that my garage drywall ceiling is dropped by 2-3 feet and if you use a wand then there's no need of ripping up the whole ceiling. Two full length rows of 3 ft wide.
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Samwfive wrote: From your reply I think that you don't use the extension wand. I don't see how it can clog when the spray tip is extended away from the spray gun with a metal tube. Painters use this to spray prime the whole house without having to use a ladder.

I won't be DIY this. The reason I asked is that my garage drywall ceiling is dropped by 2-3 feet and if you use a wand then there's no need of ripping up the whole ceiling. Two full length rows of 3 ft wide.
I understand what you mean. Yes, paint sprayers use a single component material or when they use certain epoxies they mix the two chemicals in the bucket and have 30 to 45 mins to spray. Our two component mixture happens right at the tip of the gun and reacts within a second or two. We do use "air purge” or “precision mechanical purge guns" but nothing I’ve seen on a wand.

Another important point is that you can’t make a small opening and expect an installer to accurately install the foam everywhere at the correct thickness and not leave voids or gaps behind joist.

The cost of a few sheets of drywall and a day of labour is worth knowing the foam is done right.

In the past we have installed above drop ceiling tiles and leap frogged every second one. To do a job this way though really slows an installer down and results in a higher cost of labour. So in the end is it worth the hassle of cutting 2' × 2' openings every 2 feet?

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So, I stand corrected. AP-EX for the AP2 spray foam gun introduced an extension wand for their spray foam gun. I’ve attached a picture. Unfortunately, I still see limitations due to not seeing what you are doing. Another problem with the setup is having to purge the extension wand with a glycol or solvent after every use. I do not think many companies will add this tool to their outfits. Half of installers have P2 guns and the other half prefer the graco fusions, which this wand is not compatible with.

Image

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Looking for some advice. I'm in a 1970s 2-storey home with a flat roof. We repaired the roof last year, not noticing the huge temperature difference between the main floor and second floor (~900 sq). With the recent warm weather, the second floor is quite unbearable without cranking the AC. Now I'm seriously thinking about adding spray foam to the ceiling from the inside. On the second floor, there is only about 16 inches of clearance between the ceiling and roof plywood. I believe the current ceiling insulation is only the pink fiberglass.

Since the interior of the house is finished, the only option I can think of is to take down the current ceiling, remove the old insulation, add spray foam (hopefully better R value then now) and then re-drywall the ceiling after.

Do you think that this is a feasible plan? I'm open to hearing other suggestions before I start venturing down this project.

Generally speaking, would spray foam installers take a job given that the interior is finished?

Thanks in advance for the help. K
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Before jumping into spray foam I would also be looking at your HVAC system. Do you have any Air Returns on your top floor? How many vents do you have on the top floor & home many rooms (not including air returns) Adding another air return and another vent could probably make a big difference for you.
rfd_parasite wrote: Looking for some advice. I'm in a 1970s 2-storey home with a flat roof. We repaired the roof last year, not noticing the huge temperature difference between the main floor and second floor (~900 sq). With the recent warm weather, the second floor is quite unbearable without cranking the AC. Now I'm seriously thinking about adding spray foam to the ceiling from the inside. On the second floor, there is only about 16 inches of clearance between the ceiling and roof plywood. I believe the current ceiling insulation is only the pink fiberglass.

Since the interior of the house is finished, the only option I can think of is to take down the current ceiling, remove the old insulation, add spray foam (hopefully better R value then now) and then re-drywall the ceiling after.

Do you think that this is a feasible plan? I'm open to hearing other suggestions before I start venturing down this project.

Generally speaking, would spray foam installers take a job given that the interior is finished?

Thanks in advance for the help. K
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rfd_parasite wrote: Looking for some advice. I'm in a 1970s 2-storey home with a flat roof. We repaired the roof last year, not noticing the huge temperature difference between the main floor and second floor (~900 sq). With the recent warm weather, the second floor is quite unbearable without cranking the AC. Now I'm seriously thinking about adding spray foam to the ceiling from the inside. On the second floor, there is only about 16 inches of clearance between the ceiling and roof plywood. I believe the current ceiling insulation is only the pink fiberglass.

Since the interior of the house is finished, the only option I can think of is to take down the current ceiling, remove the old insulation, add spray foam (hopefully better R value then now) and then re-drywall the ceiling after.

Do you think that this is a feasible plan? I'm open to hearing other suggestions before I start venturing down this project.

Generally speaking, would spray foam installers take a job given that the interior is finished?

Thanks in advance for the help. K
It's feasible, but you have to consider what it will take to prepare everything. All furniture would have to be moved down stairs. The entire floor would have to be covered with 6mil thick poly and taped to the perimeter. Also all the walls would have to be draped with the lighter 3mil poly and staples. This normally would not be a large job but with the added labour to prep it would definitely be an all-day affair with overtime. Another key area to really be careful of is the stair way. Lots of times a rim board needs to be nailed along the wall to allow for planks over the stair. Again, feasible, but time and prep would be the biggest factors.

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We do have 3 air return vents (relatively small - old house) and 6 out vents spread across 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. I will definitely investigate the HVAC situation as I look to solve the problem. Thanks for the info. K
sickcars wrote: Before jumping into spray foam I would also be looking at your HVAC system. Do you have any Air Returns on your top floor? How many vents do you have on the top floor & home many rooms (not including air returns) Adding another air return and another vent could probably make a big difference for you.
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Hmm. Wow, it's good to know that it can be done.

I read up on the GBA website, that I can attempt to convert the roof to an unvented flat roof system, by opening up the underside and sealing the bottom of the roof spray foam (I think they said at least 2 inches) and then add additional insulation on top of the drywall ceiling.

Thanks for helping me understand the work-effort for such a job. At least I know know what to ask to for and I'll see if it's worth it to try and do some of the prep work with a bunch of friends.

Man, I hate flat roofs (sigh.....) K
PeterLN wrote: It's feasible, but you have to consider what it will take to prepare everything. All furniture would have to be moved down stairs. The entire floor would have to be covered with 6mil thick poly and taped to the perimeter. Also all the walls would have to be draped with the lighter 3mil poly and staples. This normally would not be a large job but with the added labour to prep it would definitely be an all-day affair with overtime. Another key area to really be careful of is the stair way. Lots of times a rim board needs to be nailed along the wall to allow for planks over the stair. Again, feasible, but time and prep would be the biggest factors.

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I've read horror stories in the past, but is foam now safe for super allergy prone individuals with occasional respiratory issues?
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Since I'm planning to replace my roof this year, what would be a cost effective to redo/update the insulation in the attic?

First some background on the house:

1. A split level built in 1969.
2. Has approx 1800 sq feet of attic space split into two independent sections.
3. Existing insulation is the min. code fiberglass bat insulation from '69 with a 'vapour barrier' of kraft paper. In the 80's, cellulose insulation was blown in to bring it up to code then. A visual inspection last year showed that both have settled so that the cellulose now comes up to the top of the ceiling joist. I'm assuming that the current insulation R-rating is approx 20 to 24 (R-12 for the existing fiberglass - being generous here - and and other R-12 for the cellulose).
4. In the Winter using a laser thermometer, the ceiling from the inside gets noticeably cooler as it moves from the middle of the house to the edges.
5. The roof is currently cedar shake in a standard pyramid and A frame shapes.

Options:

A. Remove all of the existing insulation and spray a layer of foam to do both the insulation and the vapour/air barrier.
B. Remove all of the existing insulation and spray enough foam for the vapour/air barrier and use a 'batt' style product to fill in the rest.
C. Remove all of the existing insulation and spray enough foam for the vapour/air barrier and use blown in cellulose.
D. Blow in another R-20 to R-30 Cellulose, even out the 'drifts' and call it a day as the dense pack of the existing Cellulose will block a lot of the air infiltration...

Of course, with the new roof, additional venting will be added (both intake and outflow air).

BTW. I'm in Vancouver so we ain't talking -30 below here.
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i'm thinking of spray foaming my basement as i'm redoing it from the previous owner and rather than take down all his framing i would reuse it after removing the builder fiber glass that's behind it.

any issues with doing this? and how many inches and what price point am i looking at per square foot?
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The_Madz wrote: i'm thinking of spray foaming my basement as i'm redoing it from the previous owner and rather than take down all his framing i would reuse it after removing the builder fiber glass that's behind it.

any issues with doing this? and how many inches and what price point am i looking at per square foot?
You will have lots of thermal bridging if the studs are up to the concrete. This can lead to the frame rotting because they can become the condensing surface since their R value is below the dew point. If they are an inch or preferably two from the wall then your laughing, the foam can be sprayed behind them and you saved a lot of work.
In fact in Rand McNally they wear hats on their feet and hamburgers eat people
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snow00774 wrote: I've read horror stories in the past, but is foam now safe for super allergy prone individuals with occasional respiratory issues?
You'll have to consult more specialized sources to get a proper medical answer, but for what it's worth, I'll say that properly installed 2lb density closed cell foam has been safe for many years now. Obviously you would not want to be present during installation and allow proper time to air-out the house too, but foam is certified for use in such places as schools and hospitals, so you get an idea of how safe it's considered to be. Again, it's completely inert once installed and fully cured.

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Quentin5 wrote: You will have lots of thermal bridging if the studs are up to the concrete. This can lead to the frame rotting because they can become the condensing surface since their R value is below the dew point. If they are an inch or preferably two from the wall then your laughing, the foam can be sprayed behind them and you saved a lot of work.
yeah they are a good inch to two inches in some places, that's why i was considering it.

any idea what price is the going rate for per square foot?

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