yep i just built a lack enclosure and you can even add a hepa filter... I'm only printing with pla/pla+ so farastfgl wrote: ↑ If you're that paranoid, just build an enclosure out of a Lack side table from Ikea and keep the printer in a spare room with an open window or air purifier running, problem solved. You're breathing more garbage if you go outside in any major city; the 3d printer is not some death sentence.
- SCORE+10
- markj
- Deal Fanatic
- Oct 13, 2002
- 6298 posts
- 620 upvotes
- Calgary
- DroidKid
- Sr. Member
-
- Mar 25, 2013
- 618 posts
- 517 upvotes
- Toronto
Got any picture. I'm interested in this. Some days I won't print because I know I need to re level lolastfgl wrote: ↑ If you guys want a quick and easy way to level the bed without messing around with a bltouch, just grab the cheapest dial indicator you can find (like the trusty Power Fister for $20 or whatever it is at Princess Auto) and print a mount for it. That way you can set your spacing with a paper, slide the indicator and mount on the extruder, and adjust all four corners as needed. The indicator makes it really easy to get everything adjusted perfectly, and it's quick enough that I never bothered with an auto-leveler.
Also, immediately swap out the leveling springs for some stiffer ones off Amazon; the stock springs suck.
DroidKid
- astfgl
- Newbie
- Dec 17, 2017
- 36 posts
- 38 upvotes
I have a 3 Pro, so I printed this guy's design and it worked great. There's loads of other variants that people have done for every printer, just search for "dial indicator".
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4099364
Once the bed and hotend are preheated, I auto-home and then disable steppers. Slide the extruder overtop of the nearest corner, and set your gap to whatever you usually use (I use printer paper). This will be your reference gap. Then manually raise the extruder up to get some clearance, slide your dial indicator mount assembly onto the extruder, and manually lower the extruder until the indicator touches the bed and gets some preload (doesn't matter how far, long as shows something). Make a note of that number (don't worry about zeroing the indicator unless you're an autist), then slide the extruder around to each corner and adjust until you get that same number. Two rounds of adjustment usually gets me dead on. And like I said, it's worth buying a stiffer spring kit so you don't have to do it as often; Amazon has them for $20 and it'll come with some fancy aluminum adjustment wheels to pimp your printer out.
Leveling the bed this way usually takes me about 45 seconds now. Another benefit of having a dial indicator is that you can measure the runout of the whole bed to see if it's truly flat. I'm using the glass bed that came with the printer, but I had to shim the middle because it was sitting lower than the corners.