Automotive

Brake line ruptured

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  • Apr 28th, 2016 12:05 am
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[OP]
Deal Addict
Apr 30, 2010
1432 posts
352 upvotes

Brake line ruptured

Does anybody know how much is to replace a brake line? My front brakes are working and my rear is not. My car is 15 years old civic.I will be driving very slow to the licenced mechanic to be serviced. Any help on the estimate. Thanks.
16 replies
Deal Addict
Jan 7, 2014
2485 posts
483 upvotes
talk to ivan.. Is the car a rust bag?
Newbie
Oct 26, 2009
27 posts
23 upvotes
Hamilton
Just thought I should mention, that doesn't sound like a ruptured line to me. Usually brakes are crossed, the right rear and left front are one and the left rear and front right are one. This is so that if a line bursts at speed the car can be slowed down under control. If just the brakes fail on one side of a vehicle the imbalance is practically guaranteed to cause an accident.

Best advice I can give: Get the vehicle to a mechanic and see what they say.
Deal Addict
Jun 14, 2008
3385 posts
2188 upvotes
Montreal
Wildfir3 wrote: Just thought I should mention, that doesn't sound like a ruptured line to me. Usually brakes are crossed, the right rear and left front are one and the left rear and front right are one. This is so that if a line bursts at speed the car can be slowed down under control. If just the brakes fail on one side of a vehicle the imbalance is practically guaranteed to cause an accident.

Best advice I can give: Get the vehicle to a mechanic and see what they say.
Not all are crossed, some are two front and two back.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Apr 30, 2010
1432 posts
352 upvotes
Who is Ivan? Anyways, my civic has minimal rust on the body. Only rust is the rear quarter panel near the bumper. So went into the mechanic and they need to replace the brake line since the line connecting near the rear brakes is corroded and rusted on both rear wheels. Unfortunately they can't see if the gas line is corroded. No detectable gas smell...but they will need to open the housing of where the lines are. The estimate is $1550 including taxes and labour. Is this quote a little on the high side? Also, they said that two licenced mechanics will be working on my car tomorrow. Approx 8 to 10 hours of labour work. What do u all think?
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 3, 2012
1781 posts
460 upvotes
TORONTO
Too itchy wrote: Who is Ivan? Anyways, my civic has minimal rust on the body. Only rust is the rear quarter panel near the bumper. So went into the mechanic and they need to replace the brake line since the line connecting near the rear brakes is corroded and rusted on both rear wheels. Unfortunately they can't see if the gas line is corroded. No detectable gas smell...but they will need to open the housing of where the lines are. The estimate is $1550 including taxes and labour. Is this quote a little on the high side? Also, they said that two licenced mechanics will be working on my car tomorrow. Approx 8 to 10 hours of labour work. What do u all think?
$1550? Scrap the car, you could buy another civic with that money on Kijiji/Autotrader
Sr. Member
Mar 4, 2013
583 posts
384 upvotes
How do you know the fronts are working and the rears aren't, you lifted it up on a hoist and checked? Do you see any fluid leaks?
[OP]
Deal Addict
Apr 30, 2010
1432 posts
352 upvotes
They hoisted the car up and showed me the corrosion and the brake line area of the leak. Also, when I tried braking on the car there was no pressure in braking until the end. So I had to drive very carefully to the shop. Brake fluid was leaking out from the bottom.
Deal Addict
Mar 16, 2015
1771 posts
295 upvotes
Too itchy wrote: They hoisted the car up and showed me the corrosion and the brake line area of the leak. Also, when I tried braking on the car there was no pressure in braking until the end. So I had to drive very carefully to the shop. Brake fluid was leaking out from the bottom.
can you take second opinion? 1550 seems like requires a second opinion. Also are all other things work fine in the car ? else you will spend 1500 bucks now and next month anything else major breaks up ? then what will you do?
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
3642 posts
1187 upvotes
Edmonton
brake lines aren't hard to replace, you can do it yourself.
either take a line from a used car, or better yet, get some 3/16 tube and bend and flare ends, your good to go
warming up the earth 1 gas fill-up at a time...
You only live once, get a v8
Sr. Member
Jun 21, 2006
826 posts
431 upvotes
i would tow it the shop dont risk driving it
new brake lines from front to rear would cost $300 you might also need rear wheel cylinders which are roughly $80 for both
would also change the fuel lines as well as they run beside the brake lines
Deal Addict
Jun 14, 2008
3385 posts
2188 upvotes
Montreal
tmkf_patryk wrote: brake lines aren't hard to replace, you can do it yourself.
either take a line from a used car, or better yet, get some 3/16 tube and bend and flare ends, your good to go
The hard part is finding a good double flaring tool.
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
3642 posts
1187 upvotes
Edmonton
jzmtl wrote: The hard part is finding a good double flaring tool.
https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-4503-Stinger- ... B000L7QZ0Q

It's cheap, and I would argue best company (OTC makes many dealership brand specific tools. I always vouch for this brand, well worth the premium every time)
warming up the earth 1 gas fill-up at a time...
You only live once, get a v8
Deal Addict
Jan 7, 2014
2485 posts
483 upvotes
iGarage wrote: i would tow it the shop dont risk driving it
new brake lines from front to rear would cost $300 you might also need rear wheel cylinders which are roughly $80 for both
would also change the fuel lines as well as they run beside the brake lines
OP ..He is ivan...
See you already got a good deal ..
1550 ...seems too much man...
Deal Addict
Jun 14, 2008
3385 posts
2188 upvotes
Montreal
tmkf_patryk wrote: https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-4503-Stinger- ... B000L7QZ0Q

It's cheap, and I would argue best company (OTC makes many dealership brand specific tools. I always vouch for this brand, well worth the premium every time)
Those type are actually pretty crappy, probably all came out of the same factory, a lot of movement between yoke and clamp when you try to fold over the bubble, can have workable result, never perfect.

The best I've seen was Ridgid, super heavy duty and well machined, absolutely no movement. Except the damn 3/16" hole has no serrations (all others do) so line gets pushed down when double flaring.
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
3642 posts
1187 upvotes
Edmonton
jzmtl wrote: Those type are actually pretty crappy, probably all came out of the same factory, a lot of movement between yoke and clamp when you try to fold over the bubble, can have workable result, never perfect.

The best I've seen was Ridgid, super heavy duty and well machined, absolutely no movement. Except the damn 3/16" hole has no serrations (all others do) so line gets pushed down when double flaring.
I would skip on the rigid if it were me. Its either you spend but if your going to do many, spend a little more than the rigid and get the eastwood http://www.eastwood.com/professional-br ... -tool.html

Rigid has a great line of tools dont get me wrong, its just that its in the middle of quality/price and if you want to only buy 1 tool, spend a little more to get the better one.
Now the rigid power pipe threader... that is top of the line and is simply amazing
warming up the earth 1 gas fill-up at a time...
You only live once, get a v8
Deal Addict
Feb 6, 2011
1725 posts
1473 upvotes
The Eastwood tool is very nice but looks like its hard or impossible to use on the car if your splicing a tube in.
I've been using an old Blackhawk tool similar the the OTC, never had a problem. Compact enough to use in the car and needs less straight lead in tube than the Eastwood.

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