Automotive

Car Booster Pack amp rating

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  • May 24th, 2020 10:39 pm
[OP]
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Jan 6, 2011
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Car Booster Pack amp rating

Purchased this booster: https://www.thepowerall.com/product-page/deluxe

It's rated 400A jump start but 10A@12V. Does this mean there's some kind of limiter on the duration of the jump start mode?

Other than jump-starting my car sitting there for too long, I was thinking if this unit can power some DC load momentarily i.e. DC air pump rated 20A for a few minutes, power dashcam park mode @1A, or act as Mini-UPS to the car while disconnecting the battery. How can I go about the testing safely given the 400A/10A rating without frying the DC load or the car's electronics?
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Jun 14, 2008
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The 400A is basically shorting out the battery, and realistically will pump out 200A for a second or two, enough to start a 4 banger. The 10A is via a different port and will shut down if exceeded.

I use mine (not this one) to run 12v tire pump and it works great for that purpose. But these things actually have very crappy capacity for their size so won't run anything for long.
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jzmtl wrote: The 400A is basically shorting out the battery, and realistically will pump out 200A for a second or two, enough to start a 4 banger. The 10A is via a different port and will shut down if exceeded.

I use mine (not this one) to run 12v tire pump and it works great for that purpose. But these things actually have very crappy capacity for their size so won't run anything for long.
The manual for my tire pump didn't specify if the 20A is initial or constant load...if I connect the 20A pump to this power bank, does it switch to jumpstart mode and blow the fuse, or cause the internal batteries to overdrawn thus permanent damage or locked? what's a safe way to test beforehand?

It's 12Amp-hr @12V, so it's got 144 Watt of energy? there are also 12V DIY power banks online. Should I just get a separate power bank to supplement my existing lead-acid? Before adding the handsfree and dashcam, the OEM battery last 7yr, now it's 3yr max. Right now LiPo/Li-Ion car batteries are prohibitively expensive.
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Jun 14, 2008
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LongLiveRFD wrote: The manual for my tire pump didn't specify if the 20A is initial or constant load...if I connect the 20A pump to this power bank, does it switch to jumpstart mode and blow the fuse, or cause the internal batteries to overdrawn thus permanent damage or locked? what's a safe way to test beforehand?

It's 12Amp-hr @12V, so it's got 144 Watt of energy? there are also 12V DIY power banks online. Should I just get a separate power bank to supplement my existing lead-acid? Before adding the handsfree and dashcam, the OEM battery last 7yr, now it's 3yr max. Right now LiPo/Li-Ion car batteries are prohibitively expensive.
The jump leads are directly connected to battery and has no fuse, all protection are in the block on jumper clamp cable. How is your 10A output connected, does it use the same port as jumper cable or a separate plug? Mine is separate.

The 12 AH is at 4 volts, so 4 AH at 12v, even less is usable since protection will cut power to avoid cell damage.
[OP]
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Jan 6, 2011
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jzmtl wrote: The jump leads are directly connected to battery and has no fuse, all protection are in the block on jumper clamp cable. How is your 10A output connected, does it use the same port as jumper cable or a separate plug? Mine is separate.

The 12 AH is at 4 volts, so 4 AH at 12v, even less is usable since protection will cut power to avoid cell damage.
That red block thingy is probably just polarity protection. The spec says there's over-current protection but does not provide how it's done...

The power bank only has one 12V port which jump-starts at 400A, or output 10A (assuming constant). I don't know how it's going to handle 20A, either it's going to combust, short out some chips, or cause the internal BMS to lock up...

What's 4V? there's also USB 5V@2.1A.
Deal Addict
Jun 14, 2008
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LongLiveRFD wrote: That red block thingy is probably just polarity protection. The spec says there's over-current protection but does not provide how it's done...

The power bank only has one 12V port which jump-starts at 400A, or output 10A (assuming constant). I don't know how it's going to handle 20A, either it's going to combust, short out some chips, or cause the internal BMS to lock up...

What's 4V? there's also USB 5V@2.1A.
Hmm then I'm not sure how yours works. 4v is just nominal voltage of individual lithium polymer cells inside, there are three in series to give you 12v.

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