Cast iron drain stack -- replace with plastic?

alkizmo wrote: ↑That looks more like copper to me.
If you knock on the pipe (like you would a door) and it dings like a bell, then you probably have copper.
I wouldn't replace copper.

jonnyb wrote: ↑That is definitely not copper, it's hub and spigot cast pipe. If I were in your shoes I would replace the entire thing and replace as much of the existing DWV piping with ABS. As for noise, all the piping is located behind drywall and the difference between cast and ABS is negligible in this situation. By code you need a clean out as the stack enters the building, so that picture of the toilet in your basement with the stack behind it, there should be a clean out just above the floor. Judging by the other examples of plumbing I see in your pictures nothing seems to be vented properly so I would just start fresh.

alkizmo wrote: ↑The cleanout might just be under the floor tiles in the basement.
Mine barely shows out from the concrete slab.

gotrice wrote: ↑i would upgrade to pvc instead of abs, its stronger. also abs can output very toxic fumes when melted. for instance when you accidentally pour hot oil down the sink. also its more compact than your current cast iron pipe, so you might be able to get a tad bit more space

hitman_24 wrote: ↑A stack cleanout is required to be above grade
The clean out you are referring to is the main line clean out as it exits the building downstream of all tie ins, which is also required

And the basement sink is definitely not vented as what you see is called an "s" trap which is against code

OP if I were you I would change it now and not later

hoob wrote: ↑run at the very least a wet vent to that basement sink instead of running it into the floor. BTW when you standa at the sink you're literally standing on the floor drain the sink is tied into, and you can hear the running drain water. I never use the sink though.

hitman_24 wrote: ↑Both of which are illegal

hoob wrote: ↑*shrug*... That's why my contractor and myself are talking to a real plumber. If doing it properly requires a full dry vent (I just don't know) there's about a 30cm square column of space to work with that's complete open from basement to attic so it should be an easy enough job for someone skilled in the art.

Are wet vents illegal (or, whatever the "shallow tilt up to 5' less than the diameter of the pipe" is called) -- it seams that's what my 2004 condo kitchen sink had.

hitman_24 wrote: ↑Which schedule or system of PVC are u speaking of?


And you shouldn't pour hot oil down your drain anyway

gotrice wrote: ↑obviously your not suppose to pour hot oil down the drain but some people do it anyway....

if the op wants quieter drains use schedule 80 as it has thicker walls then schedule 40 but its more costly

hoob wrote: ↑ Knowing that they are problems in the DWV design, the cast iron stack is in a grey area of its anticipated lifespan even though problem free now, and that now is the prime opportunity to revisit it and preemptively correct it, I would kick myself if I didn't go ahead with the work, and anything happened in the next 10 years.

I will post follow-up when the work is done, hopefully this week.

MrFrugal1 wrote: ↑ You could leave the portion up through the roof, since monkeying with shingles in January is not ideal,but plan on doing so in Spring. If the cut off is made in the attic space rather than in an enclosed wall, it will be easier.