Cold Draft air near the gas fire place floor

feels1 wrote: ↑ I have 2 different house which have gas fireplace, direct vent. One installed by home builder, one by previous owner. Both have cold air entering, and the bottom tray is very cold.

I checked the installation manual of it, and found that there is no baffle in the duct to prevent cold air from entering. The design was that the front glass panel is tightly seal using springs. I did try to open the glass, and examine the seal. It is really tight, so not the source of draft cold air.

By carefully study the design of the pivot light, burner, and I found that the burner is just hold by screws, and metal sheets for all those parts. There is no rubber, gasket, or seal around that area to prevent cold draft air from entering through the pivot light or burner area. I reached my hand and touch the bottom of the fireplace unit by removing the front bottom cover, and confirmed that it is very cold.

This year, I even keep the pilot fire/light on to see whether it makes any different. The answer is clearly that the heat it generates is far below the cold draft air it is leaking through. The top part of the glass panel is warm, but the entire floor around the firewall is very cold.

I will buy 1" thick foam the cover the entire fireplace

JayLove06 wrote: ↑ Having the same problem. It's really bad during the -30 days. Brand new. This can't possibly be normal, the temperature check in front of the fireplace is extremely cold. The floor feels like ice.

fergy wrote: ↑ Old thread but common problem. I put the pilot light on in mine for January because it's been super duper cold outside. I believe part of the problem is you get convection currents inside the fireplace. In winter with the fireplace off, it's the reverse of what you want. The warm house air is doing the convection thing with the cold outside air that's inside the sealed fireplace and metal box. Once it warms up a bit I'm going to see if i can seal the outside exhaust somehow. Probably a garbage bag or maybe clear plastic and rope or a bungee cord or two.

engineered wrote: ↑ Yea, if your fireplace isn't on it will be drafty cold. So you need to cover the exhaust hole above the burners to prevent air flow, after you turn off the gas. I use some packing tape and bright strip of paper so you don't forget to remove it.
Otherwise the pilot light should emit enough heat to negate the cold draft.

Todd96srv wrote: ↑ Unbelievable! We use our fireplace almost EVERY DAY after Halloween, until April... I renovated the family room that the OE fireplace was in with a modulating unit that pumps out heat like nobody’s business. My wife loves it! The family room is always so cozy!

Anyway, why don’t you upgrade it to something that works properly? No drafts, no cold, all kinds of radiant heat that is awesome backup if the power goes out.

chimaican wrote: ↑ If you don't use the gas fireplace, close the gas valve (both at fireplace and in basement if there is a branch), and then you can cover the exhaust with a heavy plastic bag.
DO THIS IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANY INTENTION OF USING IT AT ALL FOR THE SEASON


I still have young children so I have no use of it for safety reasons. When they get older then I will likely start using it, but for now, it's just a spot for a draft to enter.

teoconca wrote: ↑ My gas fireplace had been shut off for over 20 years. Shut off the gas, covered in/outside exhaust vent, covered bottom grill, covered with window film (winter time). It should block the draft 99.9%.

georvu wrote: ↑ Shut our gas fireplace many years ago as well, including pilot.

Didn't like that mantle would get hot as well when used 2-3 times before shutting off.

Perhaps normal but not chancing it.

teoconca wrote: ↑ My gas fireplace had been shut off for over 20 years. Shut off the gas, covered in/outside exhaust vent, covered bottom grill, covered with window film (winter time). It should block the draft 99.9%.