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**COMPLETED** DIY Curved Staircase from rough-sawn lumber --= Lots of Pictures=--

  • Last Updated:
  • Nov 12th, 2018 11:22 pm
[OP]
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Sep 5, 2011
1202 posts
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Toronto

**COMPLETED** DIY Curved Staircase from rough-sawn lumber --= Lots of Pictures=--

About two years ago, I got the green light from the wife to do a little renovation on our little 3 bedroom shack. It started out innocent enough (replace the tile, carpet, repaint, etc) and it snowballed into a complete overhaul. I ripped the entire house apart to bare wood & floor joist. Needless to say, with my full-time job and 3 kids (2 toddlers and a newborn), it is taking forever (also, my lack of skill/knowledge/time might have something to do with it lol). As of right now, the only room that is "done" is my garage workshop.

I have spent $2,577.82 to date on this set of stairs. For more details on the cost break down, go to my post #81

Disclaimer: I am NOT a woodworker/carpenter/contractor by trade, just a hobbyist. I have never done this before (build staircase). I am just a new homeowner trying to save a few bucks by doing everything myself. I build window shutters for a living (pcshutters.ca). If anybody is interested, I might put together a little "how-to" wooden shutters DIY with limited tools.
Here is my builder-grade carpeted stairs

Before vs After Photos
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The very first step is to remove the carpets..I don't have any picture of that but here is a picture of it a little later on
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Since my stair has A LOT of curves, I figured I better learn how to make the curved template and pattern routing. I started making the curved transition piece on the second floor. I really like the look and feel of black walnut so I used that. I recently completed hardwood floor installation on my second floor, my subfloor is 1-1/2" thick plus the hardwood floor, it is over 2 inches thick. Hence, my transitional piece between the hardwood floor and the stairs need to 1-3/4"

Here is me gluing up the walnut pieces that I have in stock
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The transition pieces installed. I know I could do a little better job selecting the wood so that the joint look less noticeable. But I don't want to. I want to use this figured walnut piece at the top of my stairs so I can see it every time I walk up. Plus that joint line will mostly be covered by my newel post later.
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Look at my figured walnut piece after ONE coat of polyurethane. My absolute favourite piece.
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The curve on the other side
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Last edited by PCShutters on Nov 11th, 2018 9:40 pm, edited 12 times in total.
85 replies
[OP]
Deal Addict
Sep 5, 2011
1202 posts
2155 upvotes
Toronto
Handrail

The curved handrail is the main reason why I started this thread. I can't seem to find ANY information on the web on how to do this and I had to think long and hard about it so I hope this might help someone else who is looking to do curved handrail on their own. I will do this with bent lamination.

Step one: Make the form. This obviously has to have the exact same shape, angle, height and spacing as your old handrail.
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You will need to find the angle of your stairs and transfer that to that angle block you see on the L shaped 2x4
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I used hard maple for my handrail because I can't find 12 footer walnut at my local store. I bought 8 quarter maple and re-saw them to 1/4" thick to make them flexible. You can try different thickness but I found 1/4" works for me. Here are the pieces all glued up. I used polyurethane glue for this because it gives me more working time. Yes, you will need A LOT of clamps for this...

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Here is the other piece for the second floor
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Finished with walnut stain & 5 coats of polyurethane
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Last edited by PCShutters on Oct 5th, 2018 5:09 pm, edited 4 times in total.
[OP]
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Sep 5, 2011
1202 posts
2155 upvotes
Toronto
Newel Post

For the newel posts, I want something simple with a sphere on top so I can grab on to it every time I need to swing up and down the stairs. The sphere presented a challenge for me because I don't have a lathe and I don't want to get one because of space restrictions in my garage.

Thanks to Izzy Swan on youtube, I was able to make my own walnut sphere using his router jig plans.
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Made the legs for the sphere
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The actual newel posts are simple...I milled up a solid 3-1/2" square pieces of maple and enclosed it with 3/4" walnut all around. This gives me a huge 5" posts that weight about 30 lbs each.
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Again, finished it with polyurethane.
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Last edited by PCShutters on Oct 5th, 2018 5:10 pm, edited 3 times in total.
[OP]
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Sep 5, 2011
1202 posts
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Toronto
Stair Risers & Stringers

For this project, the only thing I am not replacing are the stringers. Since I don't like golden oak, I decided to paint it but everybody knows oak looks awful painted because they have way too many open grain pores so I have to use "fill & seal" conversion vanish primer. Even with that heavy primer, I had to put on 10 (yes TEN) coats just to cover all of the open pores. The upside to this is that I don't have to do any wood filler for any of the minor cracks, ding, and dent culminated over the years. After the crazy thick primer dried, I lightly sanded it and add two more coats of pre-catalyst top coats and two more clear coats for a total of 14 coats of paint on that stringers and risers. I now have a "piano" finished on my stairs that is almost scratch/ding/dent/waterproof (I tested it, you will need a hammer just to make any mark on it)

After painting the stringers, I went back and remove all of the old threads & risers. Working my way up the stairs...one step at a time.
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For the risers, I used 1/4" baltic birch plywood on the outside and sandwiched on two more 5/8" plywood behind it to make a total of 1-1/2" thick risers. This is a HUGE improvement over the thin 1/2" plywood risers that the builder used. These stairs is just shy 4 ft wide and they only used 2 stringers...No wonders why it creaks.
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Here you can see the old 1/2" riser and my new 1-1/2" risers.
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Slowly going up the stairs. You might notice that my risers are a little higher on the right compared to before but that is because my stairs were not level and I want it to be dead on level.
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Finally, all of the risers were replaced and I temporarily reinstall the old treads back
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Last edited by PCShutters on Oct 5th, 2018 5:11 pm, edited 3 times in total.
[OP]
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Sep 5, 2011
1202 posts
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Toronto
Stair Treads

This by far the most time-consuming part of this build. I have 14 steps to do, each step need about 4 square feet and I wanted my tread to be 1-3/4" thick so I will need a total of 112 board feet. I wanted to use walnut for this treads and my supplier quoted me $12/bdft (this is for premium black walnut with NO sapwood). However, I would need to wait 3 months for him to kiln dry it for me. I got impatient and went with roasted hard maple instead (plus roasted maple is only $8.50/bdft). Also, based on my research, roasted maple will be more stable than regular kiln dried walnut. I don't want to deal with excessive wood movements...

Here is my lumber haul
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After milling, gluing, cutting, pattern routing, sanding etc...here is my very first tread
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Here is the tread return close up. I also did this with pattern routing. It is by far the most accurate way I know of. Especially for curved treads.
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Again...slowly going up the stairs...one tread at a time.
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Of course, when you do this, you will expect to see a few wood imperfections such as knots & checking (cracks). It is how you deal with it really make it your own.

Here is one crack that I tied it back with good old fashion bowtie made out of zebra wood
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Here is a knot that I don't like...I inlayed a maple leaf in there because I am a proud Canadian (also this is roasted hard maple---it is only fitting to use maple leaf).
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In extreme cases, when there is a huge crack. I used epoxy and reinforced it with a piece of metal on the underside. Not pretty but nobody going to see it.
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Finishing touches on the treads

Routed out a ~1/4" dado on the underside so that it would saddle over the risers and stringers. This gives me three advantages:
  1. it allows me to dial in the height of each treads so that they are exactly 7-3/4"
  2. it covers any imperfections I have between the risers/stringers and the treads so I don't have to use a moulding to cover up the unsightly gaps. (still need to use it on the left and right side of the riser Disappointed But Relieved Face)
  3. It should also reduce the glue squeeze out later.
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Also a good time to install the LED deck light I recently acquired.
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Dry fit all of the treads before finishing...
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Last edited by PCShutters on Oct 8th, 2018 6:56 am, edited 3 times in total.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Sep 5, 2011
1202 posts
2155 upvotes
Toronto
I installed the treads with PL premium max adhesive, GRK structure screws and Simpsons Strong Tie Angle Z-max.
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Installed the Newel posts with a huge 3" square mortise and tenon.

Then the handrail goes in. I used ZipBolts for the handrails...

Here are some balusters being installed...

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Final update pictures:
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Last edited by PCShutters on Nov 11th, 2018 8:57 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Oct 22, 2007
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Mississauga
Thanks for taking the time to start this thread and post all the pictures. For someone that isn't in the trade, I have to say, you have way above average diy skills. I'm sure the proper tools help, but it still take the right amount of skill to operate them. I compliment you on your progress as well as quality of work.

Keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing your progress.
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Impressive attention to detail. You are pretty skilled
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Feb 26, 2016
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Vaughan
this is remarkable and amazing work especially for someone who is not in a trade! What's more amazing is doing it with three young kids. We just finished the laminate flooring for the top level of my inlaws house and they also want to do the stairs. It's a much easier layout because it's a straight staircase with railings on one side. Even though it's much easier than your project, I still don't feel comfortable taking it on especially since I know that it'll take a while to complete. Very curious how long this project takes you with a fulltime job and family.
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Feb 22, 2007
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i had my shutters installed from them....and this thread shows the exact level of dedication put into the shutters installation
[OP]
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Sep 5, 2011
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Toronto
otaknap wrote: Very curious how long this project takes you with a fulltime job and family.
I forgot to mention one very important detail--I did not do all of this by myself. I had a lot of help from my brother who is also a complete newbie (like me) when it comes to woodworking/construction. Up until now, the only tool he own is a Dewalt 12v drill that I gave to him as a house warming gift.

Anyway, I started this project on March 11, 2018. I work 6 days a week so I can only work on my house on Sundays. Based on my count that is 29 Sundays ago. Of course, that is in a perfect case scenario. In real life, I think I have less than 15 Sundays worth of work on this project. With my 3rd kid just arrived three weeks ago. I had to take some Sundays off.

Plus, I had to work on other projects at the same time like building a crib, changing table, bookcase, etc...I am sure you see the pattern by now...I don't buy what I can make with my own two hands.

Walnut & Maple & Poplar crib
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Changing table (maple)
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Colourful bookcase
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Deal Expert
May 30, 2005
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Richmond Hill
Thanks for the pictures and walkthrough, please keep them coming!

As someone that just started casually woodworking for the past year, I've got a few questions:
- Where are you getting your wood?
- What's the reason for using maple inside the posts? Is it simply for cost savings of maple vs walnut?
- How did you make the curved transition piece on the second floor? It does not look like you used bent lamination based on the grain. If you did, how did you make the grains look like that?

Thanks!
Deal Addict
Sep 2, 2004
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Amazing thread. Thanks for taking the time to post and share all the pictures. I'm impressed with all the detail and craftsmanship you put into this. It must be very hard to juggle with your family. Are you living in the house while all this work is going on? You must have another staircase if you are!
[OP]
Deal Addict
Sep 5, 2011
1202 posts
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Toronto
Jon Lai wrote: Thanks for the pictures and walkthrough, please keep them coming!

As someone that just started casually woodworking for the past year, I've got a few questions:
- Where are you getting your wood?
- What's the reason for using maple inside the posts? Is it simply for cost savings of maple vs walnut?
- How did you make the curved transition piece on the second floor? It does not look like you used bent lamination based on the grain. If you did, how did you make the grains look like that?

Thanks!
I get my wood from places like Exotic Wood in Burlington, Century Mill in Stouffville, Fairbank Lumber in North York, and Kijiji

I used maple inside my newel posts because they are cheaper, stronger, heavier & most importantly--I have it on hand. The best wood to use is the wood you already have :)
The other main reason for using maple there is that I will be using that big "excess" chunk of maple at the bottom as a tenon. I will cut a matching mortise in my floor for the strongest joint possible. I do not want my newel post to move at all.

The curved transition piece was not done with bent lamination. I simply glue the wood together (make sure the grain match) to the rough curvature that I needed and used the pattern bit with my template to trim it to size.

Capt. wrote: Amazing thread. Thanks for taking the time to post and share all the pictures. I'm impressed with all the detail and craftsmanship you put into this. It must be very hard to juggle with your family. Are you living in the house while all this work is going on? You must have another staircase if you are!
We are renting a place next door to live during the renovation.
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Jul 23, 2004
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Montreal
Really nice work! Your woodworking skills are top notch.
Your staircase is exactly like the one at my place, except mine has oak stairs (no carpet).

I have two kids and a third one coming... and I'll say you're crazy ;). How do you get the time to do all that?
I used to do that kind of big renos before the kids, but now I have zero time.
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May 24, 2004
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Beautiful work. I absolutely love walnut.
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Feb 11, 2007
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GTA
Impressive work. As someone DIY'ing slate stonework for my front steps, I can appreciate the time/trouble of doing this in your spare time at home.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
Deal Expert
May 30, 2005
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Richmond Hill
PCShutters wrote: The curved transition piece was not done with bent lamination. I simply glue the wood together (make sure the grain match) to the rough curvature that I needed and used the pattern bit with my template to trim it to size.
Any reason you went with this method for this piece and not bent lamination, but used bent lamination for the rails?
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May 24, 2004
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baymoe wrote: Beautiful work. I absolutely love walnut.
Upon reading the caption, the treads are not walnut. I have never heard of roasted maple. Is the colour uniform throughout the thickness of the wood?

Also, wouldn't call someone with a Sawstop, Laguna Bandsaw, and various Festool tooling to be a newbie woodworker, far from it. Not to take away the fantastic work that you do, just a bit misleading for the people following your thread that you're new to it.

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