Automotive

Could a weak battery cause ABS module malfunction?

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  • May 23rd, 2016 4:40 pm
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Dec 19, 2001
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Fernando Poo
hagbard wrote: So you didn't do the labour?
Thought you were suggesting I do the work myself? Changing out an ABS sensor if it were not integrated into the pump I could probably do. Bleeding brakes, then reprogramming, not likely. I'm hoping to take the $7k and run.
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hagbard wrote: Thought you were suggesting I do the work myself? Changing out an ABS sensor if it were not integrated into the pump I could probably do. Bleeding brakes, then reprogramming, not likely. I'm hoping to take the $7k and run.
Yeah if you don't love the truck then better to just trade it in and move on. I had an emotional bond to my discovery so probably held onto it longer than I should have.
Re: Procurement, Life & RFD
nasa25: say you won it in a raffle. That's what I do with like 86% of my purchases
infinityloop: Lying to your SO seems like an unhealthy long term strategy
nasa25: lmao
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Someone just pointed out that a battery from a wrecker is going to have been sitting around for a long time thus wouldn't be any good. If the deal falls through the battery will be replaced with a new one.
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Nov 12, 2004
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hagbard wrote: Someone just pointed out that a battery from a wrecker is going to have been sitting around for a long time thus wouldn't be any good. If the deal falls through the battery will be replaced with a new one.
Any competent wrecker has the same battery tester that any auto part sellers use. The wrecker here is WHERE we go to get a battery tested no line up and they let us do the testing ourselves. They DEFINITELY won't sell you one that doesn't test as in good condition under load, the same as any battery you buy new. Here you get a 30 day exchange warranty and they only cost 35.00 for a normal battery that goes in front under the hood and 45.00 for a vented one that goes in the trunk or under a seat. Over the last 25 years I have bought a few and they have all OUTLASTED the cars I put them in....
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Aug 15, 2015
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hagbard wrote: Thought you were suggesting I do the work myself? Changing out an ABS sensor if it were not integrated into the pump I could probably do. Bleeding brakes, then reprogramming, not likely. I'm hoping to take the $7k and run.
ABS sensors aka wheel speed sensors are located at each wheel on the knuckles and on some cars are integrated as part of the wheel bearing assembly. Issues from malfunctioning sensors will result in incorrect wheels speed reading and as a result the ABS will erroneously detect wheel spin/lockup and try to correct the non existing issue sometimes creating dangerous situations when full braking force is required but not applied.
This is usually detected easily as the ABS will kick in when braking lightly while the car isn't skidding or individual tires haven't lost traction.
I should mention than in many cases as these sensors rely on the Hall effect, the magnets will attract metal dust from braking and might just need a cleaning to return to normal operation and give correct readings. In other cases corrosion/debris on the tone wheel on the axles is the culprit.

What are the symptoms of your problem with the ABS other than the check light?
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dilligafeh wrote: ABS sensors aka wheel speed sensors are located at each wheel on the knuckles and on some cars are integrated as part of the wheel bearing assembly. Issues from malfunctioning sensors will result in incorrect wheels speed reading and as a result the ABS will erroneously detect wheel spin/lockup and try to correct the non existing issue sometimes creating dangerous situations when full braking force is required but not applied.
This is usually detected easily as the ABS will kick in when braking lightly while the car isn't skidding or individual tires haven't lost traction.
I should mention than in many cases as these sensors rely on the Hall effect, the magnets will attract metal dust from braking and might just need a cleaning to return to normal operation and give correct readings. In other cases corrosion/debris on the tone wheel on the axles is the culprit.

What are the symptoms of your problem with the ABS other than the check light?
The tachometer goes a bit crazy and the revs are high. I've had all four sensors go at different times over the nearly eight years I've had the car and the symptoms are generally the same. There's a bit of weirdness in the steering too but I just put new tires on two weeks ago so I might not be used to them. The mechanic seemed to think it was something in the ABS unit and not the sensors due to his computer diagnostic (though he hasn't told me what the code is). After four sensors going bad I have a pretty good idea of how to replace them but it doesn't cost that much to have a mechanic do it. The Module on the other hand is a different matter.
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Rpm isn't affected by the ABS. The reading comes from the transmission output shaft or other sensors depending on make not wheel speed sensors.

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