- Dec 9, 2019
- 28 posts
- 32 upvotes
- Aug 29, 2017
- 63 posts
- 72 upvotes
oh sorry I thought we were talking about the XPS. Then he should buy a cheap $70 card and put it in.
and good answer to his other question about why to do 1 rig instead of 3.
- Sr. Member
- Sep 6, 2009
- 770 posts
- 1286 upvotes
- Jr. Member
- Mar 25, 2017
- 194 posts
- 285 upvotes
From what I understand you can use the free pcie x1 slot with the gpu for mining and possibly split the x16 slot as well. You don’t need the speeds attached with the x16 lanes just the computational power of the gpu.renegadeavenger wrote: ↑ Guys you are forgetting.. The Dell 3070 is a weaker cooled card..
You cannot pull them out and merge to 1 desktop.. You only have 1 PCIe 16x.
You also don't have enough power supply to do so with multi cards..
You are better off to run individual desktop of them
Dell parts, most are proprietary.
With regards to the power supply, you can use an external psu as the connector for the GPU aren’t proprietary.
Finally you mentioned the cooling, I think there is a lot of misconceptions going on here. Where are you getting your facts about the flu being a weaker cooled Card from? Based on what some else posted and me looking into what they said the 3070 version does seem like a rebadged msi ventus 2x with very slight modifications. Yes the 10700 is undercooled if performing cpu intensive activities but for mining this won’t be a problem at all.
- Mar 17, 2021
- 2 posts
hey, so i just bought a pc from dell with the current deals going on. Config is - i7 10700f, 16 gb ram, rtx 3070, 512 nvme ssd, 2 tb hdd (DELL G5 series) the cost for me is $1330 CAD (after all discounts). I had a couple questions- if i wanted to use this PC as a daily computer (excluding the GPU) while mining how could i achieve this (what softwares/ steps do i need to use). What will be the general profit/day for this machine if setup so the gpu is being utilized at 20 hours a day?
- Apr 12, 2009
- 317 posts
- 77 upvotes
Selling 2 of these at cost. Pm me if interested
Edit; specs are 8Gb ram + 10600F + 3060 ti.
Edit; specs are 8Gb ram + 10600F + 3060 ti.
- Deal Addict
- Mar 13, 2007
- 1142 posts
- 413 upvotes
I know this post is a little OLD...but I just replaced my head sink and Fan. Fan is running, but I get bios error VR heatsink not detected using the NH-U9S CPU heatsink. Any idea?
ericschand wrote: ↑ I'll post here what I posted on another site, with the same systems and issues. This isn't difficult by any means but it's really about the most difficult part of putting a build together, in general. On a scale of 1-10, 10 being extremely difficult, I'd put it at 7.
It was split across 2 posts so I'll post both here.
I just got a Dell G5 5000 series with those exact specs.
As a warning, you will have to replace the CPU heatsink. It's not capable of keeping the system cool, especially during games. Using prime95, it goes to 100C throttle within 10 seconds. I bought a Noctua NH-U9S and the replacement was very simple.
You will need to source 4 x M3 16mm screws, this was the difficult part. Many hobby shops and Home Hardware carry them.
Once you get these screws, unscrew and remove the old heatsink. DO NOT remove the CPU from the socket, there's not need to. Clean the CPU! Remove any old thermal paste using a microfibre towel. Then clean it using 90% isopropyl alcohol. Put the alcohol on the microfibre and clean it, much like you would remove a spot off a car, but gently. Do not skip that step! Next do the same isopropyl alcohol cleaning on the bottom of the new heatsink. No fingerprints, dust, etc, on either!
Read the instructions on how to remove the fan from the Noctua heatsink.
Now use the black plastic spacers and put in the Intel mounting brackets (use the middle hole, align the brackets on the front and back sides of the CPU) using the M3 screws you bought. You want the fan to blow directly out of the case, to the back, not to the sides. When mounted to the heatsink, the sticker should be visible and facing the back of the computer. There are arrows on the fan showing direction of flow. Yes, you're going to fumble around a bit, there isn't much room, but be patient and it'll work out. Look in the Noctua instructions as to what direction the curve on the brackets should face, this is also important.
Put about 0.5 cm of thermal paste (included) in the middle of the chip. You don't need to spread the thermal paste, that'll happen as you put the heatsink on. Now set the large heatsink on top and screw it down onto the mounting bracket. Do not overtighten! Just enough to hold it in place. [They say 0.6Nm, so if you know of a way of measuring, go ahead.]
Mount the fan that you took off earlier, plug it in, and you're good to go. Read the instructions but keep in mind you do not need to do the backplate steps, the black plastic spacers and M3 screws are taking its spot.
Also, the case fan is very very loud. Even at idle. I also went with Noctua NF-A9 PWM and swapped out the case fan.
A way to test the system is once you have the system, download the portable version of HWinfo and prime95. Unzip both somewhere. Run HWinfo64. Click on Monitoring, then Sensor Status. Lots of stuff shows up. Scroll down to CPU [#0]: Intel Core i7-10700##: DTS. You will see Core 0, Core 1, etc., and some temperatures. The temperatures listed, assuming all you have done is download and install, should be around 30-33C. If it's higher...well, continue on. Leave that up and running.
Now run the prime95, and torture test should automatically open, select the one that says Small FFTs. Click OK.
Now watch the HWinfo Sensor Status window. On mine, and many many others, within 10 seconds the cores were at 100C, then started coming down as the CPU throttles itself. You will see that if you scroll just below the temperatures, Core # Thermal Throttling will be Yes.
Stop prime95! In the prime95 window, click Test -> Stop, then Test -> Exit.
If it is indeed yes, I strongly recommend replacing the heatsink, especially if you will be gaming. If all you are doing is web, word, and other home general use, you are probably okay, but realize the situation isn't ideal.
Unfortunately, I did not make a picture or video guide. I didn't anticipate posting :-)
The old fan, and this step, is entirely optional. I initially put the stock fan in the front of the system. However, it was very loud, even there. So I bought a Noctua NF-A8 PWM. Note this fan is smaller than the other one purchased above (80mm vs 92mm). Carefully removed the front cover (on mine 4 clips to pull up on the left hand side, then swing it out like a door) and then mounted it on the front, inside the case. If you have a 1TB HDD or something similar, you will have to remove that, so it's up to you if you want to continue. I used zipties to hold the fan in place, as it won't easily screw in. The fan should be setup to draw air INTO the case. The previous fan sent air out of the case. For the Noctua this means the sticker on the fan should point into the case. Check the arrows on the side to verify.
Once you have made the changes, test again using HWinfo and prime95. I get idle temps of 30-33C and full blown use in games temperatures of 75-79C. This is in a room temperature room.
Very quiet system after this and temperatures around 70C under full load. I strongly recommend adding the cost of this, about $100, to the PC.
- Sr. Member
- Mar 21, 2012
- 579 posts
- 496 upvotes
i've seen a few posts about people putting an 80mm fan in the front as an intake. Is any bigger possible and how are you guys doing it? I jammed an RX 6800 XT into mine, so i have no space in in the lower portion. It would have to go where the 3.5"inch hdd bay used to be.