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DIY adding power outlet in ceiling or convert range to hardwire?

  • Last Updated:
  • Apr 12th, 2019 2:39 pm
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 24, 2009
26 posts
Ottawa

DIY adding power outlet in ceiling or convert range to hardwire?

I've bought a new wall mounted range hood that is of the plugin type instead of the hardwired type that the previous hood used. I gave up on trying to find a hood that uses hardwiring.
What aggravates this is that I put marble tiling all across the wall up to the ceiling, and it is now difficult to add a power outlet behind the flue pipe box. The exhaust is in the wall not the ceiling, so in theory I could add an outlet there. But I was wondering if I could, instead, add a power outlet in the ceiling? The flue/exhaust box reaches the ceiling so it'd be out of sight.
I've asked the seller (it was through Amazon) to let me return the hood, and thought to find a hood that uses hard wiring, but I can't find any at all! I found one single used one, but it's underpowered. Under the cabinet hoods do seem to use hardwiring often, but this is a wall mounted one, and all new ones I'm seeing everywhere all use an flexible cord and plug.
However, the seller came back telling me that I could just cut the cord and connect the wires together. Everywhere I read that you can't do that, because it'd void the UL listing. Perhaps, maybe, if the cord could be disconnected completely, and the romex cable might attach to the box that's inside the hood. I consider that still an option, but I'm sure people will tell me off on that.
So, the "proper" route, perhaps an acceptable one, might be:
1) Cut hole in ceiling.
2) Run romex wire behind the wall down into the basement.
3) Buy dedicated breaker box with proper rating (20A?) - its a 800 CFM hood.
4) Insert an old-work / re-work outlet box into the hole. This is the type that does not require it to screwed into a stud. I'm counting on a stud, of course, not being in the right place, because of Murphy as always.
5) Connect romex wire to outlet.
6) Check to see that everything might be in order. If something doesn't work out, cancel and undo the whole thing and noone would have known - and nothing has ever been hooked up, so no rules broken.
7) Apply for permit.
8) Make connections including installing the breaker.
9) Call for the inspection.

So what are the problems with the steps above to add the outlet, and alternatively, what are the problems with following the seller's suggestion to essentially convert the plug in type to a hard wire type?
21 replies
Deal Addict
Jan 28, 2007
2107 posts
1438 upvotes
SW Ontario
I'd return it myself for a hardwired hood, they are out there, but I suspect your looking for cheap, cheap, cheap if it was off Amazon ... I'm very cautious about electrical stuff off there.

I see lots of hoods at Rona, Lowes, HD, Home Hareware, Goemans, CAS, etc ...

Whatever you do, don't cut the plug off and wire it up.
Deal Guru
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Oct 6, 2010
11575 posts
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Toronto
There's hundreds of hoods out there with pigtails... I don't understand how you can't find one. Even ikea has pigtails.

Don't say something is impossible to find to cover up your mistake. Pay for the shipping back and get a proper hood.
DYI difficulty scale:
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[OP]
Newbie
Jun 24, 2009
26 posts
Ottawa
koffey wrote:
Apr 9th, 2019 2:05 pm
There's hundreds of hoods out there with pigtails... I don't understand how you can't find one. Even ikea has pigtails.

Don't say something is impossible to find to cover up your mistake. Pay for the shipping back and get a proper hood.
And Ikea was the one place I didn't look, lol. So that's a 400 CFM hardwired one for $300. That's really good! Would 400 CFM be enough for a 4 burner gas range you think? I did a previous calculation but don't have the details anymore. I though 600 CFM was the minimum at the time. This is why I went with an 800 one.
So, they *ARE* out there. Interesting. I checked out Leons, the Brick, Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, nothing.
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 24, 2009
26 posts
Ottawa
People mention BTU divided by 100, but I can't find any documentation in the building code of Ontario that actually provides the requirement. The stove does 57,000 BTU turns out. So, 600 CFM min. Advertised hood is 400 CFM. That's 170 CFM short. But code might not actually require over 400 CFM. Yes, it's nice to have, but really though? Must one?
Deal Guru
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Jun 12, 2007
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London
123Mike wrote:
Apr 9th, 2019 1:14 pm
.....

So what are the problems with the steps above to add the outlet, and alternatively, what are the problems with following the seller's suggestion to essentially convert the plug in type to a hard wire type?
The existing power connection for the old range hood comes out where?

Put a retrofit wall box and regular duplex outlet where the old range hood power feed comes out?
Last edited by l69norm on Apr 9th, 2019 3:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Deal Addict
Apr 6, 2008
1785 posts
1111 upvotes
You apply for a permit before you start the project, not halfway through. Also I would go with a 15A and most likely arc fault.
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 24, 2009
26 posts
Ottawa
l69norm wrote:
Apr 9th, 2019 3:03 pm
The existing power connection for the old range hood comes out where?

Put a retrofit wall box and regular duplex outlet where the old range hood power feed comes out?
The existing power connection comes out at about 7 inches to the right of the middle, and about 5 inches below the exhaust hole that leads to outside. The power connection is about 32 inches from the ground.
It would sit behind the hood, unfortunately, so it'd have to change location.
The wire that is sticking out might be *just* long enough to reach an outlet box should I install a rework outlet box *just* about the exhaust hole. There are no studs in the way, so I could in theory turn the dedicated wire into an outlet. It'd mean carving a hole in the marble, but it would be out of sight. Probably using a combination of angle grinder and jigsaw and whatnot.

ps. does anyone know the time it takes to get the permit, and the amount of time the inspector can show up when requesting it's ready for inspection?
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Apr 6, 2008
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123Mike wrote:
Apr 9th, 2019 3:45 pm
The existing power connection comes out at about 7 inches to the right of the middle, and about 5 inches below the exhaust hole that leads to outside. The power connection is about 32 inches from the ground.
It would sit behind the hood, unfortunately, so it'd have to change location.
The wire that is sticking out might be *just* long enough to reach an outlet box should I install a rework outlet box *just* about the exhaust hole. There are no studs in the way, so I could in theory turn the dedicated wire into an outlet. It'd mean carving a hole in the marble, but it would be out of sight. Probably using a combination of angle grinder and jigsaw and whatnot.

ps. does anyone know the time it takes to get the permit, and the amount of time the inspector can show up when requesting it's ready for inspection?
Permits you can get anytime. Usually there is two inspections, one at "rough in" and one at "final". With smaller jobs like this it is probably just one inspection. If you call them up you could schedule it say a week from now, I'm sure they are flexible in terms of scheduling.
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 24, 2009
26 posts
Ottawa
Correction... not 32 inches from the ground, but 68 inches from the ground. I'm wondering if it is ok if the retrofit wall box would sit very close right above the exhaust hole, slightly the right, so diagonally touching it. This would leave some room for the wire to comfortably reach the box with some slack to spare.
I'll pick the arc fault outlet for extra safety as well.
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 24, 2009
26 posts
Ottawa
After sending an email to the company asking for clarification, they insist that it is not at all a problem that I cut the wire an cap it with connectors...
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Oct 19, 2008
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Whitby
123Mike wrote:
Apr 11th, 2019 2:10 am
After sending an email to the company asking for clarification, they insist that it is not at all a problem that I cut the wire an cap it with connectors...
Ask them if that is UL listed.
Sounds like you are going to hardwire, at least do it properly. Is the existing wire long enough to reach into the range hoods box....might be a knockout on back you can use. Put a strain relief on new knockout if you do make a new hole, connect inside the box by removing old wire with plug. Shouldn't be cutting that wire, remove it at butt connectors or marrettes or where its screwed down.
Deal Addict
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Jun 21, 2003
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Stoney Creek, ON
123Mike wrote:
Apr 11th, 2019 2:10 am
After sending an email to the company asking for clarification, they insist that it is not at all a problem that I cut the wire an cap it with connectors...
I'd test your unit before you do anything, if you haven't already, as I would bet if you modify and it fails at some point they probably won't hold up the warranty on it. The person telling you to just go ahead and do it isn't necessarily the same person that authorizes warranty claims.
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 24, 2009
26 posts
Ottawa
Zamboni wrote:
Apr 11th, 2019 8:29 am
Ask them if that is UL listed.
Sounds like you are going to hardwire, at least do it properly. Is the existing wire long enough to reach into the range hoods box....might be a knockout on back you can use. Put a strain relief on new knockout if you do make a new hole, connect inside the box by removing old wire with plug. Shouldn't be cutting that wire, remove it at butt connectors or marrettes or where its screwed down.
Hi. The wire comes out of the wall about in the middle vertically of the pyramid shaped body of the hood, and about 7 inches to the right of the middle line. So I would have to cut a hole with a drill into the hood on the back. That's not a problem. So the stuff romex wire will not have to bend and wouldn't experience any stress, and also the hood sits against the wall, so there is no room for a strain relief.
Now, if I had it fully my way, I would actually twist the wires together, solder it, put the caps on, plus use electrical tape for good measure. Would that be bad?
But I will also check out how the flexible cord is attached to the box that has the electronics inside. The Romex wire can comfortably reach that. It would indeed be nice if the flexible cord can be replaced entirely.

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