Description on the back of the packaging indicates "no hardwiring or batteries required". So just to note, the night light is probably powered by an internal non-replaceable battery. Entire faceplate will need to be replaced when the battery or light bulb gives up (probably not in years).
It has metal tangs that touch the outlets screws where you would wire it up .... So it's powered by the outlet
some Dollarama have the older style non deco cover
These require the electrical terminals/screws to be exposed (beneath the wallplate). It just clamps over top of them (friction fit). Every fixture I've ever encountered has terminals wrapped in electrical tape, meaning this thing wont work
SomeGuyNamedBob wrote: ↑
These require the electrical terminals/screws to be exposed (beneath the wallplate). It just clamps over top of them (friction fit). Every fixture I've ever encountered has terminals wrapped in electrical tape, meaning this thing wont work
The tape is meant as an extra safety measure to prevent shorts but it can be removed and the outlet used safely as they have been for decades before someone thought to tape them up. Anyone who removes the tape should shut the breaker off for the outlet before removing the tape.
As it was pointed out in another RFD thread for a similar product, do not install this on a kitchen counter receptacle that topically has 2 independent circuits to accommodate 2 heavy drawing current appliances at the same time. If the metal clips bridge the 2 independent plugs, that would defeat the security of the 15 amps circuit breaker for each plug. In case of a short circuit, each plug would be able to draw 30 amps without tripping a breaker and that would be a fire risk.
Temporel wrote: ↑
As it was pointed out in another RFD thread for a similar product, do not install this on a kitchen counter receptacle that topically has 2 independent circuits to accommodate 2 heavy drawing current appliances at the same time. If the metal clips bridge the 2 independent plugs, that would defeat the security of the 15 amps circuit breaker for each plug. In case of a short circuit, each plug would be able to draw 30 amps without tripping a breaker and that would be a fire risk.
If you try to install this on a "split receptacle" (as mentioned most commonly found in kitchen countertops) you will short the device/trip the breaker.
I wouldn't try to do that because the possible spark could damage the conductive tabs on this device.
Do NOT install this on a "split receptacle".
But I don't think it would short the device/trip the breaker unless the wiring was already badly installed (criss-crossed).
It's like in the other thread, someone said it would make the plugs 240 Volts which I don't think is the case either.
But could an electrician confirm this over here?
From what I can tell it would only come in contact with the lower set of wiring terminals, which means, that you shouldn't have a problem with a split receptacle. However, if you have the lower plug on that receptacle wired to a switch it would only work if your switch is on
I am still new to electric or a wall plate . How does it power up the light when it is only replacement of a "wall plate charger". Take cover out and put this wall plate back? Where is the powering up the light? on batteries?
jurassic98 wrote: ↑
I am still new to electric or a wall plate . How does it power up the light when it is only replacement of a "wall plate charger". Take cover out and put this wall plate back? Where is the powering up the light? on batteries?
If you take the wall plate off and stick your fingers on either sides you'll notice there's 120 volts there... no don't stick your fingers in there lol
[quote=shabby post_id=32826849 time=1594521252 user_id=945]
If you take the wall plate off and stick your fingers on either sides you'll notice there's 120 volts there... no don't stick your fingers in there lol
[/quote]
Thanks
