Here's the thing about terminating a receptacle by pushing wires into the back as opposed to using the screws (called quick-wire), most installers who use this method then ensure all four screws are fully tightened. This would actually push the screws in tighter to the receptacle than they would have been if a wire were under them. This would in turn mean this USB wall plate's contact tabs are making a connection with less pressure against the screw heads than they would if the receptacle was not "quick-wired".karlb wrote: ↑ It's ETL tested by Intertek, so there's that, but this raises too many red flags for me to consider it. Just like those electrical receptacles where you can insert the wire in the back (vs. using the proper screws).
Then again, I never build to minimum code either.
If you're going to use this, take some care installing it. You're playing with live 120VAC.
As others have said, ensure that the contacts are very firmly pressing onto the receptacle. There should be some resistance as you press it on from the spring metal.
If not, you can have arcing and over time that can cost a lot more.
I would also remove this annually and check for any arcing (black marks) on the contacts.
And even easier: Occasionally feel that the wallplate is not warm on the sides of the receptacle (where the contacts are); it should never be. If it is, time to remove.
(warm = there's resistance on the contacts, causing heat, or arcing causing heat, both should never happen on a proper connection).
Good that you mention you are playing with 120VAC, but as I mentioned earlier, you can also be playing with 240VAC for split receptacles.
Another point I should mention - many homes often have a receptacle that has it's upper or lower half switched, to be used with a plug in lamp. If this USB plate contact tabs do in fact make a connection with both screws on both sides of the receptacle, you'll have just rendered that switch useless by installing this.
