Computers & Electronics

The Dolphin tells it like it is....

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Jr. Member
Jul 27, 2005
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:arrowu:

Using Q Suite, I ran Q Scan on 8X mode and the scan concluded that the Sony DVD+R MIT should not be burnt at 8X in my 1640.

If I recall, that is the speed I was running when it made 2 coasters.

Now I know - no more 8X mode.
:D
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Jul 30, 2003
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RFD Junkie wrote: :arrowu:

Using Q Suite, I ran Q Scan on 8X mode and the scan concluded that the Sony DVD+R MIT should not be burnt at 8X in my 1640.

If I recall, that is the speed I was running when it made 2 coasters.

Now I know - no more 8X mode.
Hrm... that's very odd! It might just be a bad batch of Sony media :confused:
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Jan 26, 2003
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Just a FYI, I was at the Walmart in New Westminster (Queensborough) today and quickly passed the electronics section. I thought, what the heck, i'll quickly stop in and check out the Sony DVD blanks.

The -r 8X were MIT but the +r 8x were MIJ. Price was 24.99 for 50.

Not 100% sure if MIJ means it's a good thing as far as Sony DVD media products go.

They had ~ 20 spindles left. Much more of the MIT -r stuff.
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miss_swan wrote:Just a FYI, I was at the Walmart in New Westminster (Queensborough) today and quickly passed the electronics section. I thought, what the heck, i'll quickly stop in and check out the Sony DVD blanks.

The -r 8X were MIT but the +r 8x were MIJ. Price was 24.99 for 50.

Not 100% sure if MIJ means it's a good thing as far as Sony DVD media products go.

They had ~ 20 spindles left. Much more of the MIT -r stuff.
Sony MIJ +R = Taiyo Yuden.
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rahzel wrote:Sony MIJ +R = Taiyo Yuden.
That's what I thought but wasn't 100% sure.

Then the 25 bucks makes it a decent everyday deal.
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Nov 7, 2003
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@ DD or anyone else that may know

Where can I buy the BenQ 1640 for the lowest possible price in GVRD? Atic has the OEM version for $49, but it's sold out :( .
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Sgt_Strider wrote:@ DD or anyone else that may know

Where can I buy the BenQ 1640 for the lowest possible price in GVRD? Atic has the OEM version for $49, but it's sold out :( .
buy online at [rfdlink=/forums/autolink/redirectpage.php?linkid=27]NCIX.com[/rfdlink], pricematch Atic, select pickup as shipping method.
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Aug 22, 2005
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rahzel wrote:buy online at [rfdlink=/forums/autolink/redirectpage.php?linkid=27]NCIX.com[/rfdlink], pricematch Atic, select pickup as shipping method.
I went to FS a week ago and the PMed [rfdlink=/forums/autolink/redirectpage.php?linkid=27]NCIX.com[/rfdlink] without any problem. I was able to get it for 60$ tax included.
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Sgt_Strider wrote:@ DD or anyone else that may know

Where can I buy the BenQ 1640 for the lowest possible price in GVRD? Atic has the OEM version for $49, but it's sold out :( .
www.a-power.com had it for ~ 50 bucks last time I checked. 51 bucks for the black version.
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So how do you guys find the BSMB firmware so far? Is it much better than BSLB?
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7-Endless wrote:So how do you guys find the BSMB firmware so far? Is it much better than BSLB?
So far no issues at all, and I've gotten my best TYG03 results yet. But I haven't had much of a chance to play with it yet.
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The BSMB firmware wasn't too good handling my media, eventhough it's cheap it burned fine with BLSB firmware

I get zero quality score for the BSLB firmware but for BSMB firmware I get around 97

Memorex 16X MCC 004

I guess I'll stick to BSLB firmware for now

BTW both burning @ 12X
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Of Fuji 8x DVD-R, if your burner burns Fujifilm03 ones at up to 8x and

ProdiscF01 ones at up to 6x, which one do you prefer?
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gaore wrote:Of Fuji 8x DVD-R, if your burner burns Fujifilm03 ones at up to 8x and

ProdiscF01 ones at up to 6x, which one do you prefer?
Both media types are made by Prodisc, and have problems. Prodisc's media is poorly bonded, which causes a shortend lifespan. The media itself can be quite problamatic even just in getting it initially burned!

If those are the only two options, I'd suggest using the FUJIFILM03, since it sounds like it's the better one supported.
Current DVD Burner Suggestion? Stick with Pioneer
Current suggested recordable media?
CD-Rs = Maxell CD-R Pro, Verbatim Datalife+, Falcon Media Pro
DVD
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Just some general news:

I've been sitting on this for a few days, basically trying to work out all the details. I don't know everything I'd like to yet, but I'm going to share what I know.

There is a problem with much of the Taiyo Yuden DVDRs on the market. Currently, all brands that use Taiyo Yuden, including That's, Sony, Fuji, the odd Maxell here and there, and of course Taiyo Yuden's own unbranded media. The problem is that the media is not properly bonded. What does this mean? It means that over time air can get between the two plastic discs sandwhiching the organic dye, and it leads to oxidyzation. That's bad. It basically makes your disc unreadable. Unfortunately, the media LOOKS the same as properly bonded discs, so it's hard to tell by simply eyeballing it (for hard, read: Impossible). You can *TEST* the media though, to see how much it is affected by this problem. If you have medium or long length fingernails, you can use them to attempt to pry the two layers of plastic apart AT THE PLASTIC HUB OF THE DISC (Not the outer edge of the disc!). Now with Taiyo Yuden, you will likely find your finger nail slips between the layers QUITE easily. This is not neccessarily a bad thing, but it's NOT a good thing! If you can pull the two layers apart from this point, using your fingernails, then the disc was bad. Unfortunately... if you try to hard even with a good disc, it's going to effectively destroy it also. So it's not a very useful test for learning which discs can be used or not... but I'm sure SOME people will try it out for themselves. Another way of knowing if the disc is prone to early failure is by bending it by the outer edges (not recommended for media you intend to use, or keep!), if you hear the two plastic layers squeaking against each other, then you know there is movement between them, and therefor inproper bonding!

The highest quality brand that uses Taiyo Yuden media, worldwide, is the Plextor brand of DVDRs. They pay TOP DOLLAR (err, Yen) for the best media Taiyo Yuden has to offer... and even Plextor brand discs have been positively identified as having this problem.

What this problem means, is that Taiyo Yuden can NOT be trusted for absolute longevity at this time. What this does NOT mean, is that Taiyo Yuden is going to fail when you attempt to burn it. The media will almost NEVER fail! and all the quality tests will show excellent results.... UNTIL the oxydization begins. Then it'll suck.

Some media that is also known to have this problem is as follows:
Maxell Consumer Grade Japanese DVDRs
Prodisc manufactured media (may not be applicable to Prodisc made media sold under Verbatim's brand name... but *IS* applicable to Prodisc brand media with Verbatim's code!!!)
Most cheap Hong Kong made stuff

Somed media that is known to be WELL bonded is as follows:
Maxell Professional (Plus series and BQ) DVDRs (not perfect bonding, but much better then regular Maxell from Japan!! and of satisfactory quality)
Acro Circle / Optodisc A Grade DVD-Rs (Same as above, it's not perfect, but good enough to score quite high on longevity tests!!)
Ritek (So far Ritek media is manufactured with the best bonding seen anywhere, however Ritek suffers from so many other problems it's hard to recommend!!)
TDK A Grade media (This is true for TDK A Grade media in Europe... I'm still trying to find details on the differences between the good stuff sold there, and the crap that gets sold in Costco from time to time over here!)

At this point, I'm recommending people use Maxell Plus series DVDRs or BQ series DVDRs for their most important stuff. Mitsui Gold may also be good... but I have't checked yet.

I also don't know how long you can expect it to take for a poorly bonded Taiyo Yuden DVDR to fail from oxydization. These, and other things I'm still trying to find out! But I wanted to present what I *DID* know now, so people could at least be informed.

More news as I get it!
Current DVD Burner Suggestion? Stick with Pioneer
Current suggested recordable media?
CD-Rs = Maxell CD-R Pro, Verbatim Datalife+, Falcon Media Pro
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Aug 23, 2004
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7-Endless wrote:So how do you guys find the BSMB firmware so far? Is it much better than BSLB?
slightly better with good media but much improved with cheap media, overall it is a better firmware (BSLB)
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Thanks TDD for the info.

I'm kinda bummed out then. I've been backing up my precious digital files/data (pics/vids of family/kids) onto TY dvd-r 4x media (the 100pk, spindle, no label from [rfdlink=/forums/autolink/redirectpage.php?linkid=28]NCIX[/rfdlink]) ... looks like I should have picked up some of that Maxell stuff.

Please keep us updated TDD.
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Feb 11, 2005
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miss_swan wrote:Thanks TDD for the info.

I'm kinda bummed out then. I've been backing up my precious digital files/data (pics/vids of family/kids) onto TY dvd-r 4x media (the 100pk, spindle, no label from [rfdlink=/forums/autolink/redirectpage.php?linkid=28]NCIX[/rfdlink]) ... looks like I should have picked up some of that Maxell stuff.

Please keep us updated TDD.
Ditto...have all these blanks that may not last as long as I would have hoped. I tried separating the layers on one of those TY 4x from [rfdlink=/forums/autolink/redirectpage.php?linkid=28]ncix[/rfdlink], just spending about 10 seconds trying, I could see air pockets in between the layers...my vision may have been playing tricks on me since it was 6am. I'm assuming the Maxell Professional blanks are not the ones that everyone that has been buying in bulk at FS and Staples these past 10 months. And to think, I have been using the Arco Circles for my least important data but now find out they may last the longest...

Just re-read DD's post, does it mean that Maxell's made by Maxell themselves are okay?
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when did this start happening DD? i bought some Taiyo Yuden DVDR's from [rfdlink=/forums/autolink/redirectpage.php?linkid=28]NCIX[/rfdlink] 2 months ago.

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