cliff wrote: ↑ The wood is used so they have something solid to attach the rod to, without having to worry about where the stud is located (it's rarely where you want to install the rod).
Having an appropriate backing makes sure it won't fall down, now that being said can you get away without? Yes, but it depends on the type of anchor, and length and weight that will be on the rod.
Capt. wrote: ↑ You can put the brackets directly on the drywall, but you should still try to attach them to studs. I prefer to use screws for this instead of nails. A 1.5" screw would be ok if going directly on the drywall but if you're attaching the bracket to a half inch board you should definitely use a longer nail.
Putting screws or nails into drywall doesn't have much holding power, even if you do a whole bunch of them. If not going right into a stud, at the least you would need anchors (the white screw in ones are stronger) or toggle bolts.
By the way, the guy in the video must be partially deaf because using air nailer in a closed area like a closet is really loud. You could even tell in his video. Use hearing protection if you're air nailing like that.
AMD wrote: ↑ You don't install a rod by screwing it in the drywall...
You do it the proper way.
Take pieces of 1 x 4 or equivalent size in plywood. Screw each of them securely in at least 2 studs.
Patch the screw holes and paint the installed pieces of wood.
Install the rod by screwing it in the wood piece you installed and painted.
Try installing a rod directly to drywall and then hang a few heavy winter coats. That thing is just gonna rip right out.
Do you have any pictures of that "piping system" ? Seems like a cool idea.koffey wrote: ↑ I did a much cooler way. Used flanges and 3/4" pipe. Connected flanges to the ceiling, installed braces into the trusses of the rafters to hold the weight and then created a road map of piping. Have an awesome hanging system in my closet. But yes, you need to secure it to something otherwise the rod will just bend or rip off the wall.
Tommy74 wrote: ↑Do you have any pictures of that "piping system" ? Seems like a cool idea.koffey wrote: ↑ I did a much cooler way. Used flanges and 3/4" pipe. Connected flanges to the ceiling, installed braces into the trusses of the rafters to hold the weight and then created a road map of piping. Have an awesome hanging system in my closet. But yes, you need to secure it to something otherwise the rod will just bend or rip off the wall.
koffey wrote: ↑Tommy74 wrote: ↑Do you have any pictures of that "piping system" ? Seems like a cool idea.koffey wrote: ↑ I did a much cooler way. Used flanges and 3/4" pipe. Connected flanges to the ceiling, installed braces into the trusses of the rafters to hold the weight and then created a road map of piping. Have an awesome hanging system in my closet. But yes, you need to secure it to something otherwise the rod will just bend or rip off the wall.
I do, but only a few of the initial setup. I used 3/4 galvanised gas pipe. Hold on and I'll post some.
The only issue was cleaning the lines and obviously, making them fit once the installation started due to the way gas lines tighten and adding additional pieces. This isn't the finished product but gives you an idea. Mine is like a massive rail station. It's approx 80" wide and 94" in height. I was able to perform chin-ups when I had the first two bars in place to test the strength. I'm 220lbs.
Glad you figured this out before I had to post it...rdx wrote: ↑ By the way, I notice why builders always put the board and screw the brackets on the board. Studs are usually not located where we want and need the brackets. Thus, it makes sense to secure the board from those stud first and then screw the brackets on exact location you need on the board.
Tiberius wrote: ↑Glad you figured this out before I had to post it...rdx wrote: ↑ By the way, I notice why builders always put the board and screw the brackets on the board. Studs are usually not located where we want and need the brackets. Thus, it makes sense to secure the board from those stud first and then screw the brackets on exact location you need on the board.
I did this in my walk-in closet... put a nice storage cabinet (a great find at Costco for a ridiculous clearance price) in the middle of the wall... and did double hanging rails (high and low) on one side (for shirts and other short items) and normal single hanging rail on the other side (for pants, dresses, and other long items) I also put shelving over the hanging bars to finish things off and create storage room up top (I didn't use hardware like in that video where the shelf support also was the bar hanging support). Worked out beautifully.
Always use screws for these type of applications IMO.rdx wrote: ↑ Should nail or screw the board to the stud ?
Tiberius wrote: ↑Glad you figured this out before I had to post it...rdx wrote: ↑ By the way, I notice why builders always put the board and screw the brackets on the board. Studs are usually not located where we want and need the brackets. Thus, it makes sense to secure the board from those stud first and then screw the brackets on exact location you need on the board.
I did this in my walk-in closet... put a nice storage cabinet (a great find at Costco for a ridiculous clearance price) in the middle of the wall... and did double hanging rails (high and low) on one side (for shirts and other short items) and normal single hanging rail on the other side (for pants, dresses, and other long items) I also put shelving over the hanging bars to finish things off and create storage room up top (I didn't use hardware like in that video where the shelf support also was the bar hanging support). Worked out beautifully.
koffey wrote: ↑Always use screws for these type of applications IMO.rdx wrote: ↑ Should nail or screw the board to the stud ?
Tiberius wrote: ↑
Glad you figured this out before I had to post it...
I did this in my walk-in closet... put a nice storage cabinet (a great find at Costco for a ridiculous clearance price) in the middle of the wall... and did double hanging rails (high and low) on one side (for shirts and other short items) and normal single hanging rail on the other side (for pants, dresses, and other long items) I also put shelving over the hanging bars to finish things off and create storage room up top (I didn't use hardware like in that video where the shelf support also was the bar hanging support). Worked out beautifully.
koffey wrote: ↑ For sure, just make sure your math allows enough penetration between the rod flange/hooks/whatever gap into drywall and distance into stud. I normally use 2-2.5s" to give it that extra strength but again, depends.
Normal drywall is 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8"s, so if you have a 1.5" screw and your drywall is 1/2, you only have an inch left to work with.
