Electrical Help needed - LED pot light bulbs

wonder if your potlight fixtures are low voltage instead of line voltage and your are trying to put a 120 volt bulb into a 12 volt fixture. 12 volt fixtures are pretty common especially for potlight type fixtures. Do the fixtures or old bulbs have an markings on them indicating the voltage requirement? With a regular tungsten or halogen I'd imagine putting a 120 volt bulb in a 12 volt fixture will just result in a very dim light but with led's maybe that is the resulting behaviour (shut off prematurely).

Problem with LED bulbs, is if there is any residual power in line they will still run.

At 6 watts, could indicate the switch is not actually cutting power off ( older switches sometimes are not compatible with LED bulbs ), and just reducing the power. On a 60 watt older bulb there isn't enough power left in line to power and thus turn off immeditly.

Now if older bulbs where dying in same sockets, could be connections and/or ballasts.

Are you hearing any ballast humm?

I would 1st turn off main power to lights and then look at and resecure all maretts. Then check wires at switch and retighten.

theguyz wrote: ↑ Problem with LED bulbs, is if there is any residual power in line they will still run.

At 6 watts, could indicate the switch is not actually cutting power off ( older switches sometimes are not compatible with LED bulbs ), and just reducing the power. On a 60 watt older bulb there isn't enough power left in line to power and thus turn off immeditly.

Now if older bulbs where dying in same sockets, could be connections and/or ballasts.

Are you hearing any ballast humm?

I would 1st turn off main power to lights and then look at and resecure all maretts. Then check wires at switch and retighten.

Thanks for the reply. I don't hear any humming. Is it possible to just replace the switches that will accommodate for LED bulbs? Is that possible?

--DS1-- wrote: ↑ Thanks for the reply. I don't hear any humming. Is it possible to just replace the switches that will accommodate for LED bulbs? Is that possible?

Are your bulbs MR16, GU10 or screw base? Likely bad transformers if MR16

MrSparky wrote: ↑ Are your bulbs MR16, GU10 or screw base? Likely bad transformers if MR16

I believe they are m16, the narrow thin double pin. Are the transformers in the pot light unit I'm assuming, or the switch? I'm guessing the pot light...so I should replace the entire pot light?

Thanks for the help on this.

--DS1-- wrote: ↑ I believe they are m16, the narrow thin double pin. Are the transformers in the pot light unit I'm assuming, or the switch? I'm guessing the pot light...so I should replace the entire pot light?

Thanks for the help on this.

The transformer is mounted to the pot light and not exactly easy to replace or find a replacement. I would look into replacing the pot light. Some will suggest bypassing the transformer and replacing the socket with a line voltage type, not something I would do personally.

Sounds like they are over heating. Most likely the can isn't rated for insulation contact in an insulated ceiling.

check the voltage of the socket if you got a tester

I have the same issue with a track light in my basement. My track light holds three GU10 bulbs and I was using three 50w halogen bulbs. I switched them out for three 6w LED bulbs and now when I have all three LED bulbs in the light fixture, one of the bulbs will constantly dimmly stay on with the switch off. After some research, there is supposedly a little bit of energy still powering the light fixture which is keeping the one 6w bulb dimmly lit. I just switched out one of the LED bulbs for one of the original 50w bulbs and it solved the problem because that little bit of live power isn't enough to power the 50w bulb. Now how to permanently fix the problem? I'm not sure.