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Exterior Faucet - Extension

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  • Oct 30th, 2020 10:43 am
[OP]
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Oct 13, 2008
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Exterior Faucet - Extension

I have an exterior faucet on the side of the house ... very stupidly located by the builder. The shut-off valve is on the other side of the wall in the basement.

There is already one inside the garage which is used for the front of the house.

This one is very annoying as each year I run the hose underneath the fence to the backyard ... using a 75' hose.

Is there a way to keep the faucet and run a pipe to the backyard so that I can have another faucet hooked up? It is stupid that each time I water my grass and vegetable garden that I need to walk to the side of the house to turn the faucet ON and then repeat to turn it OFF. I'd rather have one in the backyard and a shorter more manageable hose.

There is a place to mount a second exterior faucet in the backyard on the wall ...

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9 replies
Deal Addict
Nov 17, 2012
3093 posts
2067 upvotes
Toronto
Is the basement finished? What's stopping you from adding a spigot in the backyard properly with new plumbing in the basement?

Anything using the existing spigot is going to be a kluge. You could easily, for example, put a short section of hose on the spigot into the back yard and then an inline valve between it and a longer hose. Use that inline valve (mount it on a fence post or wherever) to control the water from the back yard, leaving the main spigot turned on all the time.

Naturally you won't want any leaks in the hose connections anywhere, which they're prone to do.

But if this is important enough for you, just do it right and put a new spigot in the backyard with proper plumbing in the basement.

FWIW for 20 years my house has had just a single spigot on the front of the house, between my porch and my neighbor's (110 year old 3 story semi-detached in the Junction area of Toronto). I run a long hose from it along the side of the house to the back yard and coil it up. When I want to use it to fill the hot tub or water things, I have to turn it on at the front.

Hasn't been a major headache for me but I don't have to water regularly.

If I had a garden etc. that needed watering, I'd not only install a proper spigot in the yard, but also an inground irrigation system I could control from my phone.
[OP]
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Oct 13, 2008
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I don't really want to drill a hole into the foundation at the back of the house (that is facing north) ...

Basement is unfinished but it has an I-Beam ...

The AC unit is in the back of the house ... and all the hoses that the builder put in that ran from the furnace to the AC unit was forcefully bent under the I-Beam ...

So I was guessing that it would probably be easier to utilize the faucet outside ... and run copper or PCV to the back of the house ... with a slight 90 degree turn after it goes through the fence.

Is that possible? I understand that I may need a slight slope when doing that so that the water does not build up by the existing faucet.

Automation of watering systems is not my thing. I enjoy watering the vegetable garden and the lawn after dinner on nice summer evening while sitting and sipping on some whiskey.
16'x11' Living Room 11' Cathedral Ceiling. Hisense 65Q8G. Denon AVR-S740H. Jamo Classic 10 280W Towers - FR+FL. Polk Audio S35 - Center. Klipsch R51M - RR+RL & R14M - Dolby FHR+FHL. Polk Audio HTS10 Subwoofer x2. Unlocked Android Boxes from Taiwan x2.
Deal Addict
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Oct 12, 2007
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Ottawa
Yes. Get a good quality hose. Run it underground and connect it to a remote stand that has a spigot and hose hanger. I have had this setup for over 15 years and it works well.

Check out Liberty Garden Products 693 standing hose stand with brass faucet.
[OP]
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Oct 13, 2008
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This is how the setup looks in the basement ... the black hose with others tied together goes to the AC unit ...

IMG_20201029_115840.jpg
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16'x11' Living Room 11' Cathedral Ceiling. Hisense 65Q8G. Denon AVR-S740H. Jamo Classic 10 280W Towers - FR+FL. Polk Audio S35 - Center. Klipsch R51M - RR+RL & R14M - Dolby FHR+FHL. Polk Audio HTS10 Subwoofer x2. Unlocked Android Boxes from Taiwan x2.
Deal Guru
Feb 9, 2006
11913 posts
6443 upvotes
Brampton
It won't be the foundation Which is hard to drill thru. You'll be drilling thru the header or wall (I'm having a hard time figuring the elevation based on your pictures). Basically at the same level where the old one pokes thru the brick work. Bite the bullet and do it. Any option will just be ugly or no better than what annoys you now.
Deal Addict
Apr 26, 2003
1313 posts
508 upvotes
Getting a properly run pipe inside the basement to a new hose bib will save you lots of hassle trying to run long hose outside that'll just degrade over time and cause a headache.

Kinda crazy how the builder ran the A/C piping through the joist headers.
Deal Fanatic
Jan 25, 2007
9442 posts
4886 upvotes
Paris
I’d just do a 1” sprinkler pipe take off from the side spigot to wherever you want it in the backyard. You would need to blow it out in November.

I did something similar to get a hose from the back wall to the front of the garage in my place. Heat the garage to 10 celsius now so I dont bother draining it anymore, but its way more convenient to just dip into the front to water vs walking to the back. Ive saved myself MINUTES over the 13 years I lived here.
[OP]
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Oct 13, 2008
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exrcoupe wrote: Getting a properly run pipe inside the basement to a new hose bib will save you lots of hassle trying to run long hose outside that'll just degrade over time and cause a headache.

Kinda crazy how the builder ran the A/C piping through the joist headers.
Yeah. Builders have issues.

Electricals are worse ... i switch off a break for a section of the basement and the living room power goes out too!
16'x11' Living Room 11' Cathedral Ceiling. Hisense 65Q8G. Denon AVR-S740H. Jamo Classic 10 280W Towers - FR+FL. Polk Audio S35 - Center. Klipsch R51M - RR+RL & R14M - Dolby FHR+FHL. Polk Audio HTS10 Subwoofer x2. Unlocked Android Boxes from Taiwan x2.
Deal Addict
Nov 17, 2012
3093 posts
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Toronto
It's an easy job for a plumber. Do it once and do it right. And while they're at it, re-do the existing spigot with a frost-free bib if it doesn't have one and correct the slope of the copper pipe running to it. Right now there is a low spot in the copper which while not a big problem, is a sign of lazy work.

You want the entire section from the shut-off valve inside to the spigot to slope down and out so it drains completely.

It also looks like the shutoff valve must leak a bit, given the little plastic cup sitting directly below it.

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