Framing around this section

I would rip out the builder insulation blanket and put in the framed wall to sit flush with your current drywall.

It already looks as though it has some water damage on the bottom corner as well.

Thackers wrote: ↑ I would rip out the builder insulation blanket and put in the framed wall to sit flush with your current drywall.

It already looks as though it has some water damage on the bottom corner as well.

Yes 100%!! Lose the builder insulation and do it right.

It looks like that foundation is not parallel to that stairwell wall. You say it is only 3" deep to the foundation at the stairs. How deep would it be at the corner end? From the one picture, it looks like it curves out and you may have only an inch of depth at that end of the wall to the foundation which means you may not even be able to use a 2x4 sideways at that end.

Even the existing wall is further out at the bottom then at the top of the stairs.

In my opinion, you have two options.

If possible, move the door opening at top of stairs over a few inches, then move the stairs over a few inches, which gives you room to pull out the existing basement wall and frame and insulate that basement wall properly.

The second, not so good option is to build the wall around the corner and maybe use plywood to span the distance between the sideways stud to the corner wall assuming there isn't enough depth to put a sideways stud at 24" on center in the middle of that span. You are not going to get any good insulation in that section regardless.

Thackers wrote: ↑I would rip out the builder insulation blanket and put in the framed wall to sit flush with your current drywall.

It already looks as though it has some water damage on the bottom corner as well.

Jerico wrote: ↑ Yes 100%!! Lose the builder insulation and do it right.

The OP already said he doesn't have the depth to build a proper wall to sit flush with the existing drywall.

cba123 wrote: ↑ The OP already said he doesn't have the depth to build a proper wall to sit flush with the existing drywall.

What’s a “proper wall” exactly? So if a 2x4 won’t fit, use a 2x2 or whatever will fit. When OP is done it will look like a “proper wall”.

More than one way to put up a wall mate.

Jerico wrote: ↑ What’s a “proper wall” exactly? So if a 2x4 won’t fit, use a 2x2 or whatever will fit. When OP is done it will look like a “proper wall”.

More than one way to put up a wall mate.

you said to lose the builder insulation and do it right.

If the OP can manage to butt a 1x1 against the concrete, it means zero insulation between the concrete and the stud. Building any exterior wall without any proper insulation means it is not built right. To me, having builder insulation is still better then having no insulation.

Now, if you just said take down the builder insulation and build any wall, without referencing being done right or not done right, then that is another story.

Look up j trim. I had the same issue when doing my basement in my old house. The builder did the same thing with the drywall at the stairs. You can slide drywall into it and have a clean transition.

cba123 wrote: ↑ you said to lose the builder insulation and do it right.

If the OP can manage to butt a 1x1 against the concrete, it means zero insulation between the concrete and the stud. Building any exterior wall without any proper insulation means it is not built right. To me, having builder insulation is still better then having no insulation.

Now, if you just said take down the builder insulation and build any wall, without referencing being done right or not done right, then that is another story.

You can’t put drywall on that insulation wrap anyways. A 2x2 with a gasket in behind as a thermal break is about the best you can ask for, or you could put up styrofoam and glue drywall to it, which does work ok.

Having a transition piece there would look fugly.

If this was my house, I would remove the drywall back to the beginning on the stairs and put in a proper wall all the way along, all on the same plane.

Use 2x3 studs to frame that small section. That will allow it to align with your current drywall.

The only other option vs what others have proposed is:

1/2" plywood + furring strips + 1/2" drywall + glue the drywall to the plywood

Do your best to secure the plywood to whatever framing is there. You'll need to adjust plywood and drywall thickness based on the thickness of your furring strips.

Is it ideal? No. Will the plaster joint crack? Maybe. But you can avoid messing with the insulation.

You can use L track to existing stair wall stud, you can cut back drywall to center of stud. Build wall beside plumbing stack based on the thickness of drywall you need. If span is less than 24” to existing wall, used 1/2” and butt up to existing drywall on same stud. If more than 24”(looks like it is), use L track on stud 3/4” from face of existing drywall and butt up 5/8” drywall. If you get a nice flat joint using the factory edge of 5/8” drywall against existing, that can work as well. All joints and beads should be pre-filled with Sheetrock 90 at a minimum, I normally use Durabond 90 for first coat.

Jerico wrote: ↑ You can’t put drywall on that insulation wrap anyways. A 2x2 with a gasket in behind as a thermal break is about the best you can ask for, or you could put up styrofoam and glue drywall to it, which does work ok.

Having a transition piece there would look fugly.

If this was my house, I would remove the drywall back to the beginning on the stairs and put in a proper wall all the way along, all on the same plane.

Playing devil's advocate here, but perhaps that would make the stairs too narrow for code, which is why the builder did it this way?

Thanks everyone for the responses. Not sure why I wasn't getting any notifications. Was thinking about bumping the thread since no one was responding and I when I went in I saw all the responses lol.

I have drywall being delivered this weekend, so after I get it in my basement I'll remove the insulation and take a closer look. As a few posters have already mentioned, there is not enough room currently to use a 2x4 to frame out, even with all the insulation removed. I think the most likely scenario will be to rip out the drywall from the top and start again. I'll provide pics as I get start getting through it.

I will also look into the J trim option as well. If that works I may go that route, but the insulation does stick out past being in line with the drywall in the stairs.

From the measurement it looks like if you just double up the drywall on the stairs that should bring it out enough to match with a 2x4 stud wall. Or just use 2x3's for that small section (it's not structure so 2x3's will be fine. Either case remove the insulation blanket and just install new insulation between the studs. Just make sure the studs aren't touching the concrete or you have a plastic sill gasket behind them.

Similar issue. Did the best I could.

When the time comes to actually reno, leave it up to the contractor.