Furnace replacement - zoned system
So this month, I have decided to replace my working single stage one speed furnace. Its a Keep Rite furnace, which seems to be rebadged of this model. Made Aug 2006, 1000 BTU, 92.1 efficiency. http://icpindexing.toddsit.com/document ... 111504.pdf
I have only had minor issues with it over the last 2 years. But as a single stage one speed, it should of never been zoned. Before I get a ton of messages of why replace something that works and wasting my money, I have 2 reasons.
1. My city has a rebate this year for certain HE furnaces for $350,
2. Im sticking with Lennox since they have extra Costco rebates in February, and a potential one more from Lennox themselves, which I am confirming. If thats the case, thats 2 extra rebates over others like Carrier, Trane, etc
3. My ac system was replaced in the fall with Lennox, with the same rebates, so got back almost $1500
4. I want to do a preemptive change, so Im not stuck replacing a furnace in an emergency, and miss out on rebates. My furnace could last another 10 years, or not.
I am including as many pictures that I can.
The models I jave been quoted are the EL296V, the SLP99V and the ML296V. I was actually all set to go forward with the SLP99V, until i read that it needs its own Lennox Thermostat to control all the features it boasts.
I have a 1350 sq. ft bungalow, finished basement and its a walk out . I have a dual zone setup, one zone per floor. For each zone I have the Ecobee 3 Lites, that have the option for dual stage furnace in their setting (currently set for single stage). My zone control board is a EWC
NCM-300 zone board I just had to replace Oct 2020. previous one was a Honeywell Tru Zone 4 zone panel.
I do not want to replace my Ecobees or my zone panel. And if the info above is correct about the SLP99V, then I would need 2 lennox thermostats, not one.
To throw some more fun into the mix, I also have a central exhaust system in the house, one vent per bathroom, and one for the kitchen. The kitchen one I have shut because we installed a downdraft vent when we did a kitchen reno, so I just turned the wall vent closed permantly.. When we did that, the suction increased for the bathrooms. As a venting system it works very well. But its also tied into the furnace fan. So if someone turns on the switch in the bathroom, not only does the Fantech fan in the furnace room start, it also starts the furnace fan itself for venting, and with that, draws air from outside into the cold air return of the furnace. I assume its not the best system for efficiency, it literally sucks out all the warm wet air and replaces it with whatever air is outside, whihc today, as an example, is -30 degree air. I have no idea if an HRV system can replace this, but thats down the line hopefully.
And another issue we have is airflow to the farthest parts of the house, basement or upstairs. And maybe that is why they tried to zone the system. I have done a few things to help out the issue over the two years, but its apparant that supply vents closer to the furnace just have better air flow. As well, the furnace is on the one end of the house, not the middle. So the rec room, laundry room, bathrooms and bedrooms get excellent airflow, the farther bedrooms in the basement, and the kitchen and living room, do not.
As an example, if I want to go from 17 degrees in the morning to 21.5 degrees for the day, before the house levels out, the closest bedrooms can hit 26 degrees before the kitchen and living room hit 21.5 And yes the kitchen and living room are bigger spaces, more to heat up, so I understand that, but its also the airflow from those far vents is probably half of the closest vents. if I leave the fan running, within a couple hours, the entire house can be within .5 degrees of any room.
The furnace is vented outside and as well takes air from outside to. Also have a flow through humidifier, but I dont think thats an issue. Its a manual dial one you set to whatever humidity you want. Its not automatic, but it works fine.
I have never had a setup like this before. Ive always just had the usual furnace, pipe out the roof, not zoned, no humidifier, and not HE
I am looking into if there are more HE furnaces for the rebate. Here is the website they make you go to https://www.ahridirectory.org/NewSearch ... chTypeId=4
But like I said I am sticking to Lennox because of the above reasons. I did get some other quotes for just to see, but nothing specular has come up to change my mind
I wanted the SLP99V because of the variable speed fan and modulating heat. But I think thats now out.
But I know I want minimum 2 stage furnace with a ECM fan. Unless there are reasons not to do ECM, etc.
Right now, if I run my fan constantly, like I usualy do during -30 cold snaps, the temp levels are pretty good all over. Sure the amount of air coming from the far vents doesnt change, but since its a constant flow, its better then off/on when just the furnace calls for heat,
The dual zone does work well, I can have ac just go off all summer upstairs, and the downstairs stays a nice temperature, not freezing like when its all one zone and you cool upstairs, and the basement is freezing.
If I can provide any more info I will. I have tried the load calculation website, but it just asks a lot of questions on it I have no answer to. Any any tech so far giving mne quotes, just goes by sq. footage.
I want to solve as best as I can my air flow problem, and these drastic temp swings first call for heat. And yes, I know, if I want to do it correctly, I would need to redo my entire HVAC duct work. But thats not happening, due to cost of ripping apart an entire house. So I want to do the best as I can with a better furnace for a zoned system
If the pictures are wrong or you have questions please let me know. I need to have this done this month to be valid for 2 of the 3 rebates
Thank you
I have only had minor issues with it over the last 2 years. But as a single stage one speed, it should of never been zoned. Before I get a ton of messages of why replace something that works and wasting my money, I have 2 reasons.
1. My city has a rebate this year for certain HE furnaces for $350,
2. Im sticking with Lennox since they have extra Costco rebates in February, and a potential one more from Lennox themselves, which I am confirming. If thats the case, thats 2 extra rebates over others like Carrier, Trane, etc
3. My ac system was replaced in the fall with Lennox, with the same rebates, so got back almost $1500
4. I want to do a preemptive change, so Im not stuck replacing a furnace in an emergency, and miss out on rebates. My furnace could last another 10 years, or not.
I am including as many pictures that I can.
The models I jave been quoted are the EL296V, the SLP99V and the ML296V. I was actually all set to go forward with the SLP99V, until i read that it needs its own Lennox Thermostat to control all the features it boasts.
I have a 1350 sq. ft bungalow, finished basement and its a walk out . I have a dual zone setup, one zone per floor. For each zone I have the Ecobee 3 Lites, that have the option for dual stage furnace in their setting (currently set for single stage). My zone control board is a EWC
NCM-300 zone board I just had to replace Oct 2020. previous one was a Honeywell Tru Zone 4 zone panel.
I do not want to replace my Ecobees or my zone panel. And if the info above is correct about the SLP99V, then I would need 2 lennox thermostats, not one.
To throw some more fun into the mix, I also have a central exhaust system in the house, one vent per bathroom, and one for the kitchen. The kitchen one I have shut because we installed a downdraft vent when we did a kitchen reno, so I just turned the wall vent closed permantly.. When we did that, the suction increased for the bathrooms. As a venting system it works very well. But its also tied into the furnace fan. So if someone turns on the switch in the bathroom, not only does the Fantech fan in the furnace room start, it also starts the furnace fan itself for venting, and with that, draws air from outside into the cold air return of the furnace. I assume its not the best system for efficiency, it literally sucks out all the warm wet air and replaces it with whatever air is outside, whihc today, as an example, is -30 degree air. I have no idea if an HRV system can replace this, but thats down the line hopefully.
And another issue we have is airflow to the farthest parts of the house, basement or upstairs. And maybe that is why they tried to zone the system. I have done a few things to help out the issue over the two years, but its apparant that supply vents closer to the furnace just have better air flow. As well, the furnace is on the one end of the house, not the middle. So the rec room, laundry room, bathrooms and bedrooms get excellent airflow, the farther bedrooms in the basement, and the kitchen and living room, do not.
As an example, if I want to go from 17 degrees in the morning to 21.5 degrees for the day, before the house levels out, the closest bedrooms can hit 26 degrees before the kitchen and living room hit 21.5 And yes the kitchen and living room are bigger spaces, more to heat up, so I understand that, but its also the airflow from those far vents is probably half of the closest vents. if I leave the fan running, within a couple hours, the entire house can be within .5 degrees of any room.
The furnace is vented outside and as well takes air from outside to. Also have a flow through humidifier, but I dont think thats an issue. Its a manual dial one you set to whatever humidity you want. Its not automatic, but it works fine.
I have never had a setup like this before. Ive always just had the usual furnace, pipe out the roof, not zoned, no humidifier, and not HE
I am looking into if there are more HE furnaces for the rebate. Here is the website they make you go to https://www.ahridirectory.org/NewSearch ... chTypeId=4
But like I said I am sticking to Lennox because of the above reasons. I did get some other quotes for just to see, but nothing specular has come up to change my mind
I wanted the SLP99V because of the variable speed fan and modulating heat. But I think thats now out.
But I know I want minimum 2 stage furnace with a ECM fan. Unless there are reasons not to do ECM, etc.
Right now, if I run my fan constantly, like I usualy do during -30 cold snaps, the temp levels are pretty good all over. Sure the amount of air coming from the far vents doesnt change, but since its a constant flow, its better then off/on when just the furnace calls for heat,
The dual zone does work well, I can have ac just go off all summer upstairs, and the downstairs stays a nice temperature, not freezing like when its all one zone and you cool upstairs, and the basement is freezing.
If I can provide any more info I will. I have tried the load calculation website, but it just asks a lot of questions on it I have no answer to. Any any tech so far giving mne quotes, just goes by sq. footage.
I want to solve as best as I can my air flow problem, and these drastic temp swings first call for heat. And yes, I know, if I want to do it correctly, I would need to redo my entire HVAC duct work. But thats not happening, due to cost of ripping apart an entire house. So I want to do the best as I can with a better furnace for a zoned system
If the pictures are wrong or you have questions please let me know. I need to have this done this month to be valid for 2 of the 3 rebates
Thank you
