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Going into my attic to install network cables. Is this asbestos? Which drill should I purchase? I have 3 days to finish!

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[OP]
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Nov 6, 2013
73 posts
114 upvotes
Calgary, Alberta

Going into my attic to install network cables. Is this asbestos? Which drill should I purchase? I have 3 days to finish!

Hello all

I have 3 days without my family home.
This means 3 days where I can disconnect the internet modem and TVs without hearing mass-panic.
This is finally my time to run ethernet cable around my home to install a surveillance camera system!

I have a spot in my basement ready for a server rack, near where my Telus internet wire will enter the house.
From there, I realize that I need a path for my ethernet cable to travel from the basement, up to the attic, so that it can then spread out to the soffits for where ther cameras will be installed.

My home is a 1974 built 4-level-split.
I am feeling both excited for the job and very rushed for how much time I have to do all of this, so here are my questions:

Images of the attic situation

1) Is the pink stuff in here asbestos? I sure hope it's just fiber glass!
2) No matter what it is - should I be purchasing a P100 respirator from Princess Auto or something?
3) Would a Tyvek disposable paint suit be advisable too?

4) I have yet to find or attempt drilling into the top of the stud wall I have in mind.
But I am concerned that my 15+ year old Dewalt 12V drill driver will be enough to cut the mustard.
My Youtube research leads me to think I should purchase an Impact Drill for the job.
I already have 2x 5AH Dewalt 20V XR Batteries for my compact circular saw, so I was thinking of buying this combo set?
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dewalt ... 1001160446
Or should I be looking at one of the Milwakee deals?


I have a set of spade bits ready to use for the drilling itself.
The goal is to make a hole for a stretch of ENT Conduit (flexible or rigid? Not sure which yet) to go from the attic to the basement, for the network cable to run between.

Thank you for your time!
24 replies
Deal Addict
Nov 20, 2005
1453 posts
580 upvotes
The pink stuff looks like insulating foam or fiberglass and it might make you itch so protection is always a good idea, mask, suit, etc. Also, you won't be able to see Asbestos, only a lab will be able to confirm it.
Deal Addict
Nov 17, 2012
4960 posts
4522 upvotes
Toronto
Depending on the weather, make sure you have a buddy around when you go into your hot attic in a plastic jumpsuit.

Pink insulation is not asbestos. Would be surprised to see any in a 1974 house.

Impact drivers are not for drilling holes. Any cordless drill will punch a 1/2" hole in the top plates of the wall. Expect two layers of 2x4 at the top of walls. But sure, get yourself a new drill set! Always good to have a proper drill and impact driver set around.

Conduit is a nice idea, but I expect that could make this job a lot harder. Are the partition walls you're going down into insulated? Have plumbing or electrical running through them?
Deal Addict
Apr 26, 2003
2490 posts
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GTA
I'd say you'd better have good batteries because you don't want to have to suit up and then stop because you ran out of battery. Having a tyvek suit is a good idea as well and yes, ensure someone else is around or else you might just be found in the attic by your family if you pass out due to the heat. Not sure what the weather is like in Calgary these next few days, but in Toronto, it's not a good idea to be up in an attic right now.
Deal Fanatic
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Dec 10, 2008
5115 posts
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Buy a P100 mask and a Tyvek suit. Toss the suit when you're done.

Even if it is asbestos unless you're tossing it around with your mask off, you'll be fine.
Let's hug it out
Deal Addict
Jan 21, 2011
1290 posts
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Get the Bosch spade bits if you don’t already have them. I would use 3/4 non metallic flex, cheap and somewhat easy to run. Not that easiest to pull through, but you can run about 7 cat6 in one safely. If you go this route, pick up a bottle of clear line.

If you are cutting open walls then use the vacuum pipe especially if you can do a straight run. Pull a string in pipes that are not full.
[OP]
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Nov 6, 2013
73 posts
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Calgary, Alberta
Because it is an inside wall, I do not 'expect' to encounter any insulation in the wall, but I do not yet know for sure.

I took some photos to better illustrate the path I am expecting to take.
Though it looks like my largest spade bit is only capable of fitting a 3/4-inch conduit, after checking

https://imgur.com/a/cLes7HB

As for the impact driver bit - I couldve sworn that I've seen people use spade bits in their impact drivers before (since they also have hex ends)
Sounds like I was way off
[OP]
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Nov 6, 2013
73 posts
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Calgary, Alberta
I'll be sure to go pick up the jump suit within the hour!
I will do my best to find someone who can spend a while over here while I traverse the attic, but if I cannot... I will do it when it is later evening, and if it feels cool...
Because yes, you are right.
We have had some extreme heat in Calgary, just a week ago. Right now it is more so the low 20's, but it can't hurt to be careful.

I do not know for sure if the wall is insulated or not, but due to it being an interior wall, I doubt it will be.
They should not have any plumbing in them.
And the only electrical should be a small twisted pair taped along the vacuum line... I think.
https://imgur.com/a/cLes7HB
[OP]
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Nov 6, 2013
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Calgary, Alberta
The vacuum line has been a mixed bag for me.
It runs half the distance I wish to travel (as could be seen in these images I just made https://imgur.com/a/cLes7HB )
But there is a twisted pair of wires that runs along them and is charged.
I do not think it's good to run network cabling parallel to charged wires, which is why I'm opting to go the route of a separate conduit, about 12 inches away from the vacuum line, which I am using as a reference point between the 2 floors.
I think you are right about the flexible 3/4 inch ENT being less of a hassle to run than rigid 3/4 ENT though... I will pick up 20 feet of this from home depot!
Deal Addict
Jan 21, 2011
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I meant that when’s new home builder runs pipe for buyers in a new house, they use the same material as the vacuum ports. I was not suggesting for you to use the existing one.

It can work depending on the run if you want to use it. That wire inside is low voltage, data cables normally pick up interference from a switching power source like 120vac, leds etc
Deal Addict
Sep 12, 2007
2923 posts
1023 upvotes
Go up in the attic in the morning, not night after its heated up all day. Night will be hot, overnight it should cool.

Are you using the vacuum line? If not, disconnect the charged wires. Regardless, it's negligible interference on the ethernet cables.

How will you put in non flex conduit? You'll need to take out a lot of drywall.

Do your walls have blocking? All my walls exterior and interior have blocking. This is a huge pain in the ass even for the simplest of tasks such as putting in those outlets to feed tv wires through the wall, what a hassle.

Have you been in the attic when it's hot? It can be 40+ degrees up there, it really is a good idea to have someone there when you go up there!

Good luck post pictures of your rack when done so we can all say "nice rack!"

Btw you should have some exhaust for the heat in output of your racked stuff!
Deal Addict
Jan 21, 2011
1290 posts
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ultima99 wrote: The vacuum line has been a mixed bag for me.
It runs half the distance I wish to travel (as could be seen in these images I just made https://imgur.com/a/cLes7HB )
But there is a twisted pair of wires that runs along them and is charged.
I do not think it's good to run network cabling parallel to charged wires, which is why I'm opting to go the route of a separate conduit, about 12 inches away from the vacuum line, which I am using as a reference point between the 2 floors.
I think you are right about the flexible 3/4 inch ENT being less of a hassle to run than rigid 3/4 ENT though... I will pick up 20 feet of this from home depot!

I brought a roll from supplier, straight one is easier to work with though. You might need more than 20 feet and a few couplings. Maybe have them come through a 4 11/16” box on each floor and or put an 8 -10” access panel on each floor.

If you could find a nice straight path that you don’t mind having painted access panels, you don’t even need pipe in between floors, but I would still put pipe from top floor to attic.
Sr. Member
Jun 12, 2018
941 posts
1390 upvotes
Ontario
Not sure why you're thinking of using conduit inside walls from attic to basement. Why not forget about the conduit just fish the cable? Will be hard enough as it is.
[OP]
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Nov 6, 2013
73 posts
114 upvotes
Calgary, Alberta
vodka wrote: Go up in the attic in the morning, not night after its heated up all day. Night will be hot, overnight it should cool.

Are you using the vacuum line? If not, disconnect the charged wires. Regardless, it's negligible interference on the ethernet cables.

How will you put in non flex conduit? You'll need to take out a lot of drywall.

Do your walls have blocking? All my walls exterior and interior have blocking. This is a huge pain in the ass even for the simplest of tasks such as putting in those outlets to feed tv wires through the wall, what a hassle.

Have you been in the attic when it's hot? It can be 40+ degrees up there, it really is a good idea to have someone there when you go up there!

Good luck post pictures of your rack when done so we can all say "nice rack!"

Btw you should have some exhaust for the heat in output of your racked stuff!

Nahh, I did not use the vacuum line.
Perhaps I could have worded my earlier post better than I did.
I only used it as a reference point for where my intended conduit run would be.

I managed to cut a small hole in the front closet where I wanted to investigate for running the conduit. Everything was clear, so I used a 1-1/8 inch paddle bit to make my hole in the bottom of the studwall/floorboard.
Above that, there are absolutely no other cords or fireblocking in the wall. Just a straight shot up to the attic, about 3 feet away from the attic access panel.
Image
https://imgur.com/tLcEEYS
Image
https://imgur.com/WUXMFTV

The conduit emerges from ceiling in the basement as seen here, on the opposite side of the vacuum tube, with an air duct between them.
Image
https://imgur.com/orNfQXm

I want to secure the conduit down here at the 90 degree bend.
In fact, in the same area, I am noticing an air duct sagging down on some power cords too. Thats no good.

Image
https://imgur.com/hR0olTv
Perhaps I can cut a 2x4 down to fit between 2 of the joists; to support both my conduit and the air duct?


Pictures of the rack will come within the week! Smiling Face With Open Mouth

AND YES...
Have you been in the attic when it's hot? It can be 40+ degrees up there, it really is a good idea to have someone there when you go up there!
I hate to sound dramatic, but I went up there earlier no more than 5 or 6 feet away from the access panel, and it was beyond hot. Absolutely felt like throwing up within the minute so I got out ASAP. It was really scary tbh!
I know you guys warned me
but that's what impatience got me!
[OP]
Newbie
User avatar
Nov 6, 2013
73 posts
114 upvotes
Calgary, Alberta
stevo88 wrote: Not sure why you're thinking of using conduit inside walls from attic to basement. Why not forget about the conduit just fish the cable? Will be hard enough as it is.
I'm doing this because running cables in walls is a hassle, period.
I want to run these conduits so that someday the next home owner won't have to deal with any of the inconvenience I am going through now.
And really, so far it hasnt been so bad.
The awful part to me trying to get my pull rod into the attic from the soffit!
Deal Fanatic
Jan 21, 2018
8457 posts
9339 upvotes
Vancouver
That's blown-in fibreglass insulation, common for the era. Wear clothes that cover your skin and a light painting mask to avoid irritation from floating fibres as you disturb it while moving around.

It will be extremely hot in summer, so this job is best left for a cool day. Do a little test drilling on scrap wood first so you know what to expect from your drill in the way of speed and battery life.

"Measure twice, drill once."
Deal Expert
User avatar
Sep 1, 2005
19503 posts
14493 upvotes
Markham
You should buy a [or several] box fan or one of those high speed fans and run it so it pushes as much hot air out as possible. When you work, have it continue to blow towards you at lower speed perhaps
We're all bozos on the bus until we find a way to express ourselves...

Failure is always an option...just not the preferred one!
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 13, 2008
6720 posts
3256 upvotes
Durham
ultima99 wrote: Hello all

I have 3 days without my family home.
This means 3 days where I can disconnect the internet modem and TVs without hearing mass-panic.
This is finally my time to run ethernet cable around my home to install a surveillance camera system!

I have a spot in my basement ready for a server rack, near where my Telus internet wire will enter the house.
From there, I realize that I need a path for my ethernet cable to travel from the basement, up to the attic, so that it can then spread out to the soffits for where ther cameras will be installed.

My home is a 1974 built 4-level-split.
I am feeling both excited for the job and very rushed for how much time I have to do all of this, so here are my questions:

Images of the attic situation

1) Is the pink stuff in here asbestos? I sure hope it's just fiber glass!
2) No matter what it is - should I be purchasing a P100 respirator from Princess Auto or something?
3) Would a Tyvek disposable paint suit be advisable too?

4) I have yet to find or attempt drilling into the top of the stud wall I have in mind.
But I am concerned that my 15+ year old Dewalt 12V drill driver will be enough to cut the mustard.
My Youtube research leads me to think I should purchase an Impact Drill for the job.
I already have 2x 5AH Dewalt 20V XR Batteries for my compact circular saw, so I was thinking of buying this combo set?
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dewalt ... 1001160446
Or should I be looking at one of the Milwakee deals?


I have a set of spade bits ready to use for the drilling itself.
The goal is to make a hole for a stretch of ENT Conduit (flexible or rigid? Not sure which yet) to go from the attic to the basement, for the network cable to run between.

Thank you for your time!
What does Asbestos looks like???
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Deal Expert
User avatar
Sep 1, 2005
19503 posts
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Markham
Very difficult to tell by looking if insulation is asbestos or contains asbestos.

You can take a sample and have it tested if you're wondering.

These ppl test.

https://www.pinchin.com/markets/homeown ... _2EALw_wcB
We're all bozos on the bus until we find a way to express ourselves...

Failure is always an option...just not the preferred one!

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