Commercial electric 40 inch LED selectable color light $23.98

SammyDavis wrote: ↑ Dimmable, direct wire in series with many access points on the fixture, 3 colors of light to chose from, more robust solid design. Premium Samsung LED’s (not sure if the 14$ model has those.)

Plus you can remove the cover the mount them. This is big plus

patapouf wrote: ↑ They wont flicker. LED lighting works with DC voltage which doesn't fluctuates or alternate.

Actually while that’s *normally* true, it’s not factually correct. Some LEDs do run on AC voltage and in fact there’s nothing about LEDs that restricts them to DC (though mains power is too much for most).

On the flip side, even if they *are* using DC internally, it’s fairly common for cheaper bulbs to use flicker the DC in sequence with the AC (or even chop the wave, take the positive only, and flicker at 30hz. so gross)

shabby wrote: ↑ No they dont, just installed some under the cabinets. Also have the $15 shop lights and they don't flicker either.



I had some princess auto shop lights that flickered and made my garage door remotes not work when they were on.

They were LED as well ? That's interesting... I've seen many strange behaviors with fluorescent tubes, but LED side effects I've seen were mostly happening on more sensitive equipment. If there were really really cheap and their DC converter was really bad, it *could* cause interference or the frequencies used by your remote (low chances, but not impossible with todays electronics). Otherwise the light could have emitted at the same wavelength as one of the safety sensor for the bottom of the door ? Last thought is that the DC converter could be sending crap back on the AC lines of your garage, that would have interfered with something else that was communicating over AC (like some of these WIFI range extenders). I assume you probably already threw them out, but otherwise I would have been curious to see if they did the same thing on a different outlet, or if the light was covered / not visible. I like trying to figure out random problems like that one, and if the DC converter was bad on it, I would try to see if I can sort it out, even if it's not really time effective.

joshfindit wrote: ↑ Actually while that’s *normally* true, it’s not factually correct. Some LEDs do run on AC voltage and in fact there’s nothing about LEDs that restricts them to DC (though mains power is too much for most).

On the flip side, even if they *are* using DC internally, it’s fairly common for cheaper bulbs to use flicker the DC in sequence with the AC (or even chop the wave, take the positive only, and flicker at 30hz. so gross)

Technically, yes they could run directly out of AC. I don't think I've seen any LED running straight out of AC in a product manufactured in the last 10 years. With AC, they would be depending on the voltage where they are used. Like fluctuate a lot if you in a garage, plugged in the same socket at a saw going on and off.

Since those are supposed to be dimmable, I assume they are using a 10V DC dimmer, which in turn would control the DC circuitry.

Even if they were using AC internally, and chopping the wave keeping only keeping positive, you would still stay at 60Hz, Yes, would still be gross. Then if you put the negative part to positive with a rectifier (or 4 diodes), you get 120Hz positive wave. Add a capacitor and you have *almost* DC.

I have the cheaper version of this light (the 14.98$ one). I bought 4, and none are flickering whatsoever. I will take one apart, probably monday (or maybe one of the 24$ one if I stop by home depot) and give you an update onto what's inside, and if I'm wrong I'll let you know !!


Have a good day !

Too bad it looks to be a pain in the butt to change the colour temp if mounted on high ceilings, especially multiples.

patapouf wrote: ↑ They were LED as well ? That's interesting... I've seen many strange behaviors with fluorescent tubes, but LED side effects I've seen were mostly happening on more sensitive equipment. If there were really really cheap and their DC converter was really bad, it *could* cause interference or the frequencies used by your remote (low chances, but not impossible with todays electronics). Otherwise the light could have emitted at the same wavelength as one of the safety sensor for the bottom of the door ? Last thought is that the DC converter could be sending crap back on the AC lines of your garage, that would have interfered with something else that was communicating over AC (like some of these WIFI range extenders). I assume you probably already threw them out, but otherwise I would have been curious to see if they did the same thing on a different outlet, or if the light was covered / not visible. I like trying to figure out random problems like that one, and if the DC converter was bad on it, I would try to see if I can sort it out, even if it's not really time effective.

You're more than welcome to buy one and fiddle around with it lol https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/ ... -p8652414e

shabby wrote: ↑ No they dont, just installed some under the cabinets. Also have the $15 shop lights and they don't flicker either.
How much dimming do they need under cabinet? 50%?
I have a 2 foot light in the circuit I’m trying to figure out what to do with before installing all of these.


I had some princess auto shop lights that flickered and made my garage door remotes not work when they were on.

How much dimming do they need under cabinet? 50%?
I have a 2 foot light in the circuit I’m trying to figure out what to do with before installing all of these.

SammyDavis wrote: ↑ How much dimming do they need under cabinet? 50%?
I have a 2 foot light in the circuit I’m trying to figure out what to do with before installing all of these.

I just installed one and honestly i'm not dimming it yet, definitely more light than before but we'll see tonight with the others installed.

Are these "better" more durable than the $14.88 homedepot ones? I read soemthing about people having issues with overheating housing with former. Anyone have experience with this?

patapouf wrote: ↑ I have the cheaper version of this light (the 14.98$ one). I bought 4, and none are flickering whatsoever. I will take one apart, probably monday (or maybe one of the 24$ one if I stop by home depot) and give you an update onto what's inside, and if I'm wrong I'll let you know !!


Have a good day !

Samster wrote: ↑ Too bad it looks to be a pain in the butt to change the colour temp if mounted on high ceilings, especially multiples.

Yeah, the colour temp change feature is pretty much a dud. You'd only change it when you initially set it up. IMO the only difference between this and the cheaper version is the dimmable feature.

Jon Lai wrote: ↑ Yeah, the colour temp change feature is pretty much a dud. You'd only change it when you initially set it up. IMO the only difference between this and the cheaper version is the dimmable feature.

I disagree. You have a choice of 3 colors for one price/product. You can’t run the cheap ones in series with electrical cable either.

shabby wrote: ↑
You're more than welcome to buy one and fiddle around with it lol https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/ ... -p8652414e

Yeah... not goint to happen. I can think about a few ways of spend 60$ ! If I had one kicking around, sure, but otherwise that's not happening. And I assume the issue with your light would only be an issue with your configuration of garage door openers and it would probably work fine here.

shabby wrote: ↑
I just installed one and honestly i'm not dimming it yet, definitely more light than before but we'll see tonight with the others installed.

Let me know how they dim, not sure if you can dim them with a normal dimmer. Other LEDs fixtures I bought before (suspended ceiling tiles) required a special DC dimmer controller. The use of a normal dimmer (even dimmer for LED) would cause it to flicker at lower levels

vrredflag wrote: ↑Are these "better" more durable than the $14.88 homedepot ones? I read soemthing about people having issues with overheating housing with former. Anyone have experience with this?

The 14.88$ are really simple. I don't have issue with them overheating here, but they're used in a cooler basement and garage. However by their design, I could see it happening. I'll keep an eye on them, and maybe take thermal pictures. (cheap 300$ Fluke unit)

SammyDavis wrote: ↑ I disagree. You have a choice of 3 colors for one price/product. You can’t run the cheap ones in series with electrical cable either.

The cheap one does have a female connector at the opposing end, allowing them to link them together. I think you can put 4 or 6 together, according to the box. Those ones (24$), from the picture on the HD website, doesn't look like there's a jack at the opposing end. Anybody can confirm ?

Back to my msg earlier, the 14.88$ one does indeed run DC, but 286.4V DC, so all the LEDS are hooked up in series, thus minimizing current. Not sure exactly of the circuitry, as I don't want to do any destructive testing on units I'm actually using. I'll try to snap some pictures later on, if anybody's interested

Picked up 2 from Red Maple (High Tech Rd.) location, 5 left. Priced 59, had to wait for a manager to come approve it. Worked out in the end, thanks OP.

patapouf wrote: ↑ The cheap one does have a female connector at the opposing end, allowing them to link them together. I think you can put 4 or 6 together, according to the box. Those ones (24$), from the picture on the HD website, doesn't look like there's a jack at the opposing end. Anybody can confirm ?

These ones have no connector, they're meant to be standalone (opened one up to check).

I'm not an expert but I don't see an out of the box way to string 3+ together. I ended up connecting two to one outlet by routing the wires in the unit out the end vs having them come out of the middle

OP how were you planning to run these in series?

Arcticsilverfox wrote: ↑ These ones have no connector, they're meant to be standalone (opened one up to check).

These have multiple circular knockouts on them to link with standard electrical wire.

cdndsm wrote: ↑ I'm not an expert but I don't see an out of the box way to string 3+ together. I ended up connecting two to one outlet by routing the wires in the unit out the end vs having them come out of the middle

OP how were you planning to run these in series?

Depends on your situation. These are designed like any typical fixture that can run in a series. If you have multiple access points on your ceiling wired then you just attach them. If not, then you run electrical wire between them.

my guess is this requires a dimmable switch?

like this one? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079775ZZQ?th=1

SammyDavis wrote: ↑ These have multiple circular knockouts on them to link with standard electrical wire.

Why is that better than having female plugs on the cheaper unit?

The added feature that it is dimmable is great. But I don t want to be forced to spend more for the switch than I paid for the light. Has anyone found a dimmable switch to work with this light that is reasonably priced? I don t need a wifi-compatible one.

patapouf wrote: ↑
Let me know how they dim, not sure if you can dim them with a normal dimmer. Other LEDs fixtures I bought before (suspended ceiling tiles) required a special DC dimmer controller. The use of a normal dimmer (even dimmer for LED) would cause it to flicker at lower levels

Can't install a dimmer actually, my light switch is a double one that controls two different lights, unless i install one in front of the light but don't feel like doing that. They're definitely bright, with my light coloured granite you almost don't need the overhead lights lol