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Dewalt DWE7480 Table Saw - PM Lowe's for $270

  • Last Updated:
  • Jul 1st, 2019 2:39 pm
Sr. Member
Nov 26, 2015
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fruzmatik wrote: Yes my order is ready for pickup too but no coupon received. Did you get the coupon before or after picking up? Never had this issue before.
Have not picked up yet. Will be today. Coupon code for June 25 to July 10 though so still time.
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Nov 18, 2008
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anyway u guys can extend the rip to 30 inches for DWE7480 ?
"Every marathon you run, your heart scars and you will die faster. If you think running a marathon is fitness, then you know NOTHING ABOUT HEALTH & FITNESS."
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May 30, 2005
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L4cky wrote: anyway u guys can extend the rip to 30 inches for DWE7480 ?
If you're ripping a full sheet, rip it at 18" instead of 30", and use the other piece.

If you're crosscutting, well, in my opinion you shouldn't be cross cutting something that big anyways with a table saw. It's pretty dangerous to handle such a big piece, best to use a circular/track saw.
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Have a different small TS, but the same limitations apply. Cause they’re all small and light (relative to cast iron floor saws).

1. Check the following and adjust. This can take a few minutes (all ok) to an hour (all not ok). 30 minutes is probably normal for these type of saws.
a) is the blade at 90 degrees to the table when set to 0? Probably not. Make it so, by looking in your manual for how to adjust.
b) is your rip fence parallel to the blade? Again probably not. Look in manual and online for how to check this.
c) is your blade and rip fence parallel to the miter gauge grooves. For me, i don’t think this matters enough and is likely too hard to adjust on these saws.
d) is your rip fence marking accurate? If not, loosen adjuster and fix it. You need to fix this with every new blade as they all have slightly different widths.
e) these saws are moved around, so expect things to get out of whack after a while. Recheck and readjust.
2. The stock blades are not great. Buy a decent 10” combination blade. I bought a Freud at HD. Check 1d above again after you install it.
3. Use the guards and know the dangers when you remove them.
4. Lookup featherboards. They make ripping a lot easier. I cut mine from scrap lumber and use a clamp to fasten them.
5. Don’t think you can rip/cut a large/long piece of lumber/plywood by yourself without proper supports. Trying that is a good way to lose fingers or worse. Understand the limitations of a small light saw and yourself.

Be safe and enjoy! I’ve found mine (the cheap R one from a while ago) to be great for what it is. I’m sure this one is even better in this class of saw.
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karlb wrote: Have a different small TS, but the same limitations apply. Cause they’re all small and light (relative to cast iron floor saws).

1. Check the following and adjust. This can take a few minutes (all ok) to an hour (all not ok). 30 minutes is probably normal for these type of saws.
a) is the blade at 90 degrees to the table when set to 0? Probably not. Make it so, by looking in your manual for how to adjust.
b) is your rip fence parallel to the blade? Again probably not. Look in manual and online for how to check this.
c) is your blade and rip fence parallel to the miter gauge grooves. For me, i don’t think this matters enough and is likely too hard to adjust on these saws.
d) is your rip fence marking accurate? If not, loosen adjuster and fix it. You need to fix this with every new blade as they all have slightly different widths.
e) these saws are moved around, so expect things to get out of whack after a while. Recheck and readjust.
2. The stock blades are not great. Buy a decent 10” combination blade. I bought a Freud at HD. Check 1d above again after you install it.
3. Use the guards and know the dangers when you remove them.
4. Lookup featherboards. They make ripping a lot easier. I cut mine from scrap lumber and use a clamp to fasten them.
5. Don’t think you can rip/cut a large/long piece of lumber/plywood by yourself without proper supports. Trying that is a good way to lose fingers or worse. Understand the limitations of a small light saw and yourself.

Be safe and enjoy! I’ve found mine (the cheap R one from a while ago) to be great for what it is. I’m sure this one is even better in this class of saw.
how to lose a finger with such a big board?
"Every marathon you run, your heart scars and you will die faster. If you think running a marathon is fitness, then you know NOTHING ABOUT HEALTH & FITNESS."
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Jan 11, 2012
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PORT ALBERNI
When you are concentrating hard to keep the wood from tipping off the saw (lack of support) it's easy to forget (loose track) where your fingers/ hands are and end up running them through the blade before you even realize that you did it.
Been in the construction industry for almost 25 years and still have all my digits. The older I get the more I think about the safety aspect of the job at hand before anything else.
L4cky wrote: how to lose a finger with such a big board?
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Timetripper wrote: When you are concentrating hard to keep the wood from tipping off the saw (lack of support) it's easy to forget (loose track) where your fingers/ hands are and end up running them through the blade before you even realize that you did it.
Been in the construction industry for almost 25 years and still have all my digits. The older I get the more I think about the safety aspect of the job at hand before anything else.
wow! thanks for the tips! I am scared of kickbacks, I think I might just use a circulaw saw.

How do I cut aluminium angle bar with a circular saw? for example, how deep should the tooth be?
"Every marathon you run, your heart scars and you will die faster. If you think running a marathon is fitness, then you know NOTHING ABOUT HEALTH & FITNESS."
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L4cky wrote: wow! thanks for the tips! I am scared of kickbacks, I think I might just use a circulaw saw.

How do I cut aluminium angle bar with a circular saw? for example, how deep should the tooth be?
Having the full carbide tooth clearing the material is a common depth setting. Works out to 1/4” to 1/2” more than the depth of what you are cutting.
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karlb wrote: Having the full carbide tooth clearing the material is a common depth setting. Works out to 1/4” to 1/2” more than the depth of what you are cutting.
thanks.

Also how sould I cut that aluminium right angle bar? should I put it on a foam sheet and use the circulaw saw like a mitre saw (top to down) ad hold the bar with my left hand - or put the right angle bar on a table with left hand on the bar and the cut side to cut coming out of the table and use the circular saw from south to north direction? any kick back to worry about?
"Every marathon you run, your heart scars and you will die faster. If you think running a marathon is fitness, then you know NOTHING ABOUT HEALTH & FITNESS."
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L4cky wrote: thanks.

Also how sould I cut that aluminium right angle bar? should I put it on a foam sheet and use the circulaw saw like a mitre saw (top to down) ad hold the bar with my left hand - or put the right angle bar on a table with left hand on the bar and the cut side to cut coming out of the table and use the circular saw from south to north direction? any kick back to worry about?
By its nature, any saw with a round blade can kickback. With a portable saw, it happens more when the blade binds in the cut.
With a table saw, it is more when a piece is trapped between saw blade and fence, allowing blade to fling it back to the operator.

I use the latter method. More control.
You can also hold a speed square against the material and the saw base to keep your cut square.
A picture. Know where your fingers are and where the blade is/will be.
https://makezine.com/2015/09/03/skill-b ... ed-square/
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karlb wrote: By its nature, any saw with a round blade can kickback. With a portable saw, it happens more when the blade binds in the cut.
With a table saw, it is more when a piece is trapped between saw blade and fence, allowing blade to fling it back to the operator.

I use the latter method. More control.
You can also hold a speed square against the material and the saw base to keep your cut square.
A picture. Know where your fingers are and where the blade is/will be.
https://makezine.com/2015/09/03/skill-b ... ed-square/
thanks, but im not sure how to put it against a 90 degres angle bar like this

Image
"Every marathon you run, your heart scars and you will die faster. If you think running a marathon is fitness, then you know NOTHING ABOUT HEALTH & FITNESS."
- Training 101
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Jon Lai wrote: Personally I would suggest using an angle grinder or a jigsaw instead.
um.. i only have a circulaw saw , table saw and a multi tool.
"Every marathon you run, your heart scars and you will die faster. If you think running a marathon is fitness, then you know NOTHING ABOUT HEALTH & FITNESS."
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Feb 6, 2011
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Toronto
I couple of months ago I sprained my left little finger trimming a few inches off 20" X 20" piece of 3/4" plywood on a dw745 table saw with the rising knife removed. There was about 17" between the blade and the fence. The rising knife was removed because the anti-kickback claws were permanently attached and gouged the surface of the wood.

The wood rode up over the blade and the far end rotated to the left. My left hand did everything it could to hold the wood flat, but quickly the wood spun counter clockwise and was hurled behind me. In the process, the little finger was severely sprained.

Lucky I wasn't seriously hurt and confused as to what happened, I came across the following video that I recommend everyone using a table saw watch.



As a result of this video, I retired my old dw745 and bought this dwe7480 with this deal, mostly because the rising knife can be used without the anti-kickback claw.
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yurong wrote: I couple of months ago I sprained my left little finger trimming a few inches off 20" X 20" piece of 3/4" plywood on a dw745 table saw with the rising knife removed. There was about 17" between the blade and the fence. The rising knife was removed because the anti-kickback claws were permanently attached and gouged the surface of the wood.

The wood rode up over the blade and the far end rotated to the left. My left hand did everything it could to hold the wood flat, but quickly the wood spun counter clockwise and was hurled behind me. In the process, the little finger was severely sprained.

Lucky I wasn't seriously hurt and confused as to what happened, I came across the following video that I recommend everyone using a table saw watch.



As a result of this video, I retired my old dw745 and bought this dwe7480 with this deal, mostly because the rising knife can be used without the anti-kickback claw.
While use of the riving knife should be imperative for safety, not using one does not mean kickback will happen. You just have to be more cautious you are not pinching against the blade. This means you always push towards the fence on the corner closest to the blade, instead of the corner closest to the fence. Most people starting out will do the latter, because they feel its safer when you put your hand as far away as the blade as possible. This is wrong. Instead, if safety is an issue, use the push block or push stick to get the applied force on the corner closer to the blade.
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Feb 6, 2011
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Thanks and understood Jon Lai, 45 years of casual woodworking and renovations plus shop classes in high school, no kick back until this incident.
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L4cky wrote: thanks, but im not sure how to put it against a 90 degres angle bar like this

Image
Either like this
____
|

Or like this
___
|

Put on a 2x4 or similar so you have a flat part for the saw.
Aluminum is ok to cut as it is a soft enough metal.

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