How do I properly vent an enclosed/recessed (under counter) dryer?

Use rigid pipe and push the dryer back in as if plugging in an outlet to a socket.
Or remove the washer (it should be using flex hoses, I hope), then you can get access from the side to connect the dryer.
Again, use rigid pipe whenever possible.

So... The company that installed the dryer in the first place didn't vent it?

jackboot wrote: ↑However, upon replacing the dryer into its recess I found that there was no way of doing so without the transition exhaust duct coiling up like a snake and being crushed behind the dryer. I suppose the result is restricted air flow for the hot exhaust and subsequent overheating of the dryer. Not only is this a fire hazard, but this is also probably the reason that the heating coil burnt up so soon (less than 2 years old); the heating coil was probably not being properly ventilated.

So my question is: what is the proper way to install the transition ducting for a recessed electric dryer so that the ducting does not coil up and crush behind the dryer? I see recessed laundry equipment at new homes all the time so there must be a proper way of doing this. Unfortunately my googling has not yielded any tips. Any help?

I think you're right that the lack of circulation caused the early burnout of your element. Put it back like it was and it will happen again.
What is behind and below the back of the dryer? Can you access the duct and pull it through?

aqnd wrote: ↑Use rigid pipe and push the dryer back in as if plugging in an outlet to a socket.
Or remove the washer (it should be using flex hoses, I hope), then you can get access from the side to connect the dryer.
Again, use rigid pipe whenever possible.

Removing the washer for access is a good idea.

Get one of these: http://www.dryerbox.com/.

I just got one from a shop in Burlington for my dryer. I was surprised to see that it was made out of a heavy gauge steel ... really sturdy and well built. They have some for 2x4 walls or 2x6 walls venting both up or down and some for both new construction or existing drywall.

This is really could be a mistake in design, if its crushed when dryer is in place, means dryer was measured and countertop was cut to this width. Properly, the depth should had been 8-12 " deeper. But can't really do anything about that now.

Or line, enough room is there, easy just measure depth, if room is there, was lazy install guy when just connected vent line and push dryer into place crushing it and having too much slack on line.

Your options are use a ridgid duct line and push back into place hoping it doesn't crush or bend, or push drywer back but leaft out from front of counter, midas well pull washer forward to give same appearance.

Thanks for all the replies.

Unfortunately removing the washing machine and helping to manoeuvre the ducting from the side is not currently possible because there is a partition/wall between the washer and dryer (same as in the photo in my OP). The partition is required for strength for the countertop I suppose.

@dlhntr: I saw that dryerbox thing but I don't think it will work for my application. Maybe you can tell me differently. The reason I don't think it will work for my situation is because the length of ducting required would be too long to recoil and fit in the dryerbox. I need to completely pull the dryer out from underneath the countertop to access the rear vent hole which means that the dryer is about 4-5 feet away from the rear wall. This means that I need to use about 4-5 feet of ducting. When I push the dryer back, I think there may be too much ducting to recoil into the recess. It seems to me that the dryerbox is made for applications where the user can leave the dryer 1-2 feet away from the wall when attaching the ducting to the dryer and wall and then push the dryer back slightly to sit flush with the wall. In that case there would not be too much extra ducting. Can you confirm if your application is like mine or the latter one I describe?

These replies have given me one idea though: I could remove the washing machine, cut an access hole near the back of the wall/partition, and then guide the dryer back onto a short piece of rigid transition ducting. I'd rather not cut the wall, but I can't think of another solution.

Any comments or idea are appreciated!

Cut the wall, I had a similar problem when I installed a counter in our small laundry room. When pushing the dryer back the duct tore a bit, I cut the broken section out and reattached it while the dryer was almost totally pushed into place. I used a 2x2 to support the front middle of the counter so I had access. The biggest problem was sliding the washer back in place, those things are heavy.

The only other thing I thought of was getting a kit like this http://homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm ... 1977?Num=0 the duct seemed more flexible but not sure it would be any better.

My laundry room is tiny and so the situation is sort of like the illustration but without the table over top. I can move the washer out of the way first, but then there is the problem with the hoses which are barely long enough. So in the end, I use the semi rigid dryer duct. Crawl over into the back side, attach the duct, slowly ease the dryer back, leaving lots of room so the duct would not crush.