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How to lower CO2 levels in home? HRV/ERV?

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[OP]
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How to lower CO2 levels in home? HRV/ERV?

Have a hous+e built in the late 50s/early 60s, about 900 sq ft in the main level (2 bedrooms) and we are getting reading anywhere from 800-1400 for CO2.

Levels seem to dip during the day and start rising around 6pm every day.

Other than opening windows (which we can't always do, 6 month old so open windows would get too cold and even in the summer, loud noises will wake him) are there any other options?

Furnace fan is running all the time. Would an HRV/ERV system help at all? The odd thing is the basement has pretty much always averaged around 500 ppm which the upstairs is basically never in that range.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
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Apr 3, 2006
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where are these readings from? Airthings, or something else?

A home built that old might otherwise be pretty leaky, which would not usually require an HRV/ERV; 800 is not that bad for normal times when people using space and breathing out CO2, etc. 1400 is high; do you know or have tracked times when it's 1400 and what you were doing? cooking, etc.? gas stoves are quite bad for this if you cook on one regularly, even with a good exhaust fan.

I installed an ERV 3 months ago and can confirm it's helped a lot for our house, levels are usually sub 500 (almost fresh outside quality) for CO2, unless cooking but comes down pretty quickly - with gas stove and not an excellent exhaust setup.

I did DIY, still cost me close to $2000 with unit and ducts/materials.
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OP, yes, what you want is an ERV. It's like opening a window but will recover much of the heat and humidity.
I've been looking to do this, but in the mean time I crack open a basement window, and crack open other windows when the weather isn't too bad.
I just finished DIY'ing a radon fan install, and I'm super happy with the results. This is next on the list.
dling7 wrote: where are these readings from? Airthings, or something else?

A home built that old might otherwise be pretty leaky, which would not usually require an HRV/ERV; 800 is not that bad for normal times when people using space and breathing out CO2, etc. 1400 is high; do you know or have tracked times when it's 1400 and what you were doing? cooking, etc.? gas stoves are quite bad for this if you cook on one regularly, even with a good exhaust fan.

I installed an ERV 3 months ago and can confirm it's helped a lot for our house, levels are usually sub 500 (almost fresh outside quality) for CO2, unless cooking but comes down pretty quickly - with gas stove and not an excellent exhaust setup.

I did DIY, still cost me close to $2000 with unit and ducts/materials.
I've been looking to DIY this as well. Can you post what you bought and where?
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engineered wrote: OP, yes, what you want is an ERV. It's like opening a window but will recover much of the heat and humidity.
I've been looking to do this, but in the mean time I crack open a basement window, and crack open other windows when the weather isn't too bad.
I just finished DIY'ing a radon fan install, and I'm super happy with the results. This is next on the list.


I've been looking to DIY this as well. Can you post what you bought and where?
https://supplyexpert.ca/products/intell ... -fv-10vec2

Went to bardon supplies for the 6” insulated ducting etc

However, I’d likely go for a Vanee one through gasexperts.ca the guy there is awesome and very helpful and will walk you through your own install. I didn’t know this until I bought my unit but needed some accessories, which aren’t sometimes easy to find, for all the exterior vents, duct supplies etc

However I’m very happy with the Panasonic, it’s dead quiet, I actually only hear my furnace since it’s pretty close to it.

Suspension hooks are needed if you’re mounting to joist as it was rumbling the house without them
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dling7 wrote: https://supplyexpert.ca/products/intell ... -fv-10vec2

Went to bardon supplies for the 6” insulated ducting etc

However, I’d likely go for a Vanee one through gasexperts.ca the guy there is awesome and very helpful and will walk you through your own install. I didn’t know this until I bought my unit but needed some accessories, which aren’t sometimes easy to find, for all the exterior vents, duct supplies etc

However I’m very happy with the Panasonic, it’s dead quiet, I actually only hear my furnace since it’s pretty close to it.

Suspension hooks are needed if you’re mounting to joist as it was rumbling the house without them
Thanks I'll look into that.
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[OP]
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dling7 wrote: where are these readings from? Airthings, or something else?

A home built that old might otherwise be pretty leaky, which would not usually require an HRV/ERV; 800 is not that bad for normal times when people using space and breathing out CO2, etc. 1400 is high; do you know or have tracked times when it's 1400 and what you were doing? cooking, etc.? gas stoves are quite bad for this if you cook on one regularly, even with a good exhaust fan.

I installed an ERV 3 months ago and can confirm it's helped a lot for our house, levels are usually sub 500 (almost fresh outside quality) for CO2, unless cooking but comes down pretty quickly - with gas stove and not an excellent exhaust setup.

I did DIY, still cost me close to $2000 with unit and ducts/materials.
How old is your house?

It seems to go up at night when we close the doors but even keeping them open doesn't seem to help that much.
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Tijuana wrote: How old is your house?

It seems to go up at night when we close the doors but even keeping them open doesn't seem to help that much.
It's 1980. What device is giving you these readings, where is it in the house? 1400 seems excessively high if you aren't cooking.
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dling7 wrote: It's 1980. What device is giving you these readings, where is it in the house? 1400 seems excessively high if you aren't cooking.
Airthings. This is from beginning of February
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dling7 wrote: I installed an ERV 3 months ago and can confirm it's helped a lot for our house, levels are usually sub 500 (almost fresh outside quality) for CO2, unless cooking but comes down pretty quickly - with gas stove and not an excellent exhaust setup.

I did DIY, still cost me close to $2000 with unit and ducts/materials.
Your co2 levels with your ERV are impressive.

Did your erv perform ok in cold weather? Can you describe how it is ducted in to your existing furnace?
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Tijuana wrote: Airthings. This is from beginning of February
Looks like you'd be a good candidate for HRV/ERV; from the research I did, seemed like ERV was best for GTA like yourself, as you continue using it in the summer; i found last summer C02 levels to be worse than winter since there is really no fresh air (at least my furnace brings in fresh air for combustion), the A/C unit just recycles inside stale air.

If your levels are rising at 6pm it's likely from cooking, stovetop, oven, etc., and you should be opening your kitchen windows a bit to let more fresh air in when your stale air is being contaminated further by cooking oils, etc. Your VOCs likely increase at the same time

Also ensure you're replacing furnace filter (i get cheap filters and replace monthly), and too many plants can also increase CO2.
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johnas wrote: Your co2 levels with your ERV are impressive.

Did your erv perform ok in cold weather? Can you describe how it is ducted in to your existing furnace?
It performed flawlessly even in our very cold winter this year; one of the reasons I went with the Panasonic as it was specified for cold weather use, down to like -30. It's recommended to run 24hrs during these times so the unit and valves don't freeze.

I did the simplified install with just connecting to furnace supply lines; i run my furnace fan 24/7 anyway so that was easiest option for me, and effective.

Below are readings for VOC and CO2 last 48 hrs
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[OP]
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dling7 wrote: Looks like you'd be a good candidate for HRV/ERV; from the research I did, seemed like ERV was best for GTA like yourself, as you continue using it in the summer; i found last summer C02 levels to be worse than winter since there is really no fresh air (at least my furnace brings in fresh air for combustion), the A/C unit just recycles inside stale air.

If your levels are rising at 6pm it's likely from cooking, stovetop, oven, etc., and you should be opening your kitchen windows a bit to let more fresh air in when your stale air is being contaminated further by cooking oils, etc. Your VOCs likely increase at the same time

Also ensure you're replacing furnace filter (i get cheap filters and replace monthly), and too many plants can also increase CO2.
Windows open, exhaust fan on during cooking and even leaving on a bit afterwards (gas oven).

I am leaving towards the ERV so I can use it year round.
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Tijuana wrote: Windows open, exhaust fan on during cooking and even leaving on a bit afterwards (gas oven).

I am leaving towards the ERV so I can use it year round.
Yea - we'll be switching our gas oven/stovestop to induction at some point. The gas oven is a big culprit for CO2 and VOCs, usually because it's on for so long; takes at least an hour to come down even with leaving fan and windows open.
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dling7 wrote: It performed flawlessly even in our very cold winter this year; one of the reasons I went with the Panasonic as it was specified for cold weather use, down to like -30. It's recommended to run 24hrs during these times so the unit and valves don't freeze.

I did the simplified install with just connecting to furnace supply lines; i run my furnace fan 24/7 anyway so that was easiest option for me, and effective.

Below are readings for VOC and CO2 last 48 hrs
Thanks for this. I'm getting similar co2 levels as OP. Seems like this is the solution that would bring CO2 levels down but ensure incoming air is filtered through the furnace before distributed to the house.
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dling7 wrote: It's 1980. What device is giving you these readings, where is it in the house? 1400 seems excessively high if you aren't cooking.
That's what I get in our bedroom. I keep the door open and HVAC fan running to help lower, but only opening windows can get it right down.
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engineered wrote: That's what I get in our bedroom. I keep the door open and HVAC fan running to help lower, but only opening windows can get it right down.
yes - our master lacks a return vent and we keep or bedroom door open at night too; CO2 definitely builds up overnight and within a room with two people in it. There's a subtle but noticeable difference of feeling more refreshed in the morning with having fresh air supplied to the house.
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The only place we can get our fresh air supply is through the joists across the entire house (all other options are within 3-6ft of the exhaust pipes so don't want to risk sucking that air back in).

There are a few pairs of wires running through the joists. What are the chances it's still okay to vent the pipe through there? It's a flexible pipe right so it should be able to bend a little if needed?
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Any ideas if simply opening the bedroom door doesn't make any appreciable difference in CO2 levels overnight?
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Tijuana wrote: Any ideas if simply opening the bedroom door doesn't make any appreciable difference in CO2 levels overnight?
It does help but not a lot, as eventually your whole house evens out, unless you have a fresh air source
You can also try running the HVAC fan continuously to move stale air out of the bedroom.
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engineered wrote: It does help but not a lot, as eventually your whole house evens out, unless you have a fresh air source
You can also try running the HVAC fan continuously to move stale air out of the bedroom.
I've been doing that but unfortunately the only return air vents are in the hallway (beside both bedrooms) and in the living room.

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