Installing Wainscott panels

I'd think you'd have to remove the baseboard and reinstall on top or those panels will over shadow the baseboards.

This could get expensive for a whole room and you'll still need to deal with the seams between each panel (some people used a piece of trim between each panel).

It might be more cost effective just to hire a trim carpenter to create the wainscotting on your drywall using the trim profiles you see on those panels.

EndeavourX wrote: ↑ Do I simply place them above my baseboard trim or do I need to rip those from the walls, fit the boards where the baseboards were and then re-apply the baseboards ontop of the panels?

Depends if you want it to look good.

nielboy wrote: ↑ I'd think you'd have to remove the baseboard and reinstall on top or those panels will over shadow the baseboards.

This could get expensive for a whole room and you'll still need to deal with the seams between each panel (some people used a piece of trim between each panel).

It might be more cost effective just to hire a trim carpenter to create the wainscotting on your drywall using the trim profiles you see on those panels.

I DIY'ed this method and it came out looking good.

This is not difficult to diY.. get a Lazer Level, mitre saw, and GR12 math and your good to go.

Did my master bedroom.

Here's another good video that shows how easy this is to actually DIY.

EndeavourX wrote: ↑ Do I simply place them above my baseboard trim or do I need to rip those from the walls, fit the boards where the baseboards were and then re-apply the baseboards ontop of the panels?

You would have to rip off the baseboard and put new baseboard on after the fact most likely, the bottom doesn't look very high... so that would be something to take into consideration.

You will also need to install a rail, chair rail, trim piece on top.

It really all depends what kind of look you're going for, but I would never use these for one reason, they are stock with set dimensions, this means your corners are going to look bleh and not uniform. Either you're going to have to wrap a panel in a corner, or have a filler strip with a different gap in each corner. Imo for panelling or trim boxes or anything like this, the wall size should dictate everything. The sizing and spacing should all be even if you want it to look professional.

Also, with these, you're going to have to spend a lot of time on the joints to make them look good. Those panels don't look raised, so probably not that hard to do custom, just more time consuming.

As others have said, trim boxes are a nice good alternative, to give you a good look with a lot less effort.

Really, the key for all these, is just to have a fence with a stop to cut everything consistently the same lengths. Before I had my fancy fence setup on my mitre saw, I used to clamp a 1x3 piece of ash to my mitre saw fence that was 7 or 8ft long, and then Id either clamp or screw blocks to act as stops for repeating cuts. Works great at minimal cost, and I installed thousands of feet of trim with that.

Mitresaw, Nail Gun, Laser level (or blocks for spacing and a manual level works fine too just a wee bit slower) and you're off to the races. My method is usually to get the first two pieces in level and plumb, then the last two pieces the only thing I care about is tight mitres.

To do panelling like you linked, really you just need to add a table saw to rip stuff down and make rabbets, and then you're good to go.