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  • Sep 12th, 2019 6:57 pm
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[OP]
Deal Fanatic
Sep 29, 2005
6304 posts
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Montreal

Issue with Oven

We have a Whirlpool electric stove that is giving us issues and I wonder if anyone can provide some advice.

The stove is an older version of this model:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/whirlp ... lsrc=aw.ds

What is happening now is that when you set the oven to 350 degrees, it enters preheating mode but doesn't go beyond 290 degrees. We are wondering whether the issue would be expensive to repair or should we just bite the bullet and buy another stove. The stove is about 6 or 7 years old now. It's not the first time the stove has gone on the fritz. It has been repaired under warrantee before. It had been bought at Sears and we actually had an extended warrantee that died when Sears died.

Any suggestions?
Phils
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Oct 6, 2010
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jackrabbit000 wrote: Have you tried to replace the heating element?
Yeah this. I had an old kenmore that did the same thing. I went to homedepot and purchased a new element, replaced it and it worked fine. Simple task to replace the element and it's cheap. I would try this first, and if it doesn't solve the issue you can always return it.
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Feb 9, 2006
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Most likely the element.
Some ovens have two one on top for Broil and a main heating element on the bottom. If you take off the cover on the bottom you should see if it's heating up. My bet is one of them is dead of dying.
[OP]
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Sep 29, 2005
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I've changed elements before. I agree it is a relatively simple procedure.

I haven't tried with this one yet as it just happened yesterday evening and when this has happened before, unplugging seemed to fix the problem temporarily. That didn't work yesterday when it happened.
However, what I did this morning to is flip the breaker switch and try again. This time, it heated up to the prescribed temperature so I think it probably isn't the element. At least this buys me time to try to figure out what to do.

@jackrabbit000 & @koffey, it seems to me that if it were the element it wouldn't work after a reset.
Phils
[OP]
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Sep 29, 2005
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Just the element? Not the whole stove?
Phils
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Feb 25, 2003
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I would suggest testing the element with a multimeter first. You might just have a loose connection or even wire crimp for the element.
[OP]
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vancitydude wrote: I would suggest testing the element with a multimeter first.
I'll try that tomorrow morning.
Phils
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Aug 1, 2018
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Temperature Sensor could be getting Flaky, assuming Element is good, and Control Board doesn't have any bad Solder Joints from Heat/Cool Cycles...
[OP]
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Sep 29, 2005
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So I tested the element and was not able to get any sort of ohms at all to appear on my multimeter. What I find perplexing is if the element doesn't show any resistance at all, how does it get up to 290 degrees? Shouldn't the bake function not work at all?

If it's the control board, it's too expensive to replace. Even the oven sensor is over $100.

I do have a question though. When it's preheating when baking, do both the broil and bake elements work or only the bake element? In other words would the fact I get upto 290 degrees when I'm aiming for 350 come from the broil element?
Last edited by Phils on Sep 12th, 2019 9:53 am, edited 2 times in total.
Phils
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Aug 1, 2018
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OP, what your looking for when testing the Element isn't Voltage. It's Resistance, to get that you need to take the Element out of the Circuit.
If you have the back of the oven off.

Shut the Breaker to the oven off Or Unplug stove from the wall (Safety First)
1) Unplug the 2 wires connected to the Element
2) Set your Multimeter to Continuity/Ohm's
3) Check/Compare that reading against the Schematic glued either on the back or inside the back cover...

Now if you want to check if the Element has Voltage going to it, first you need to Set the Oven to Bake , with Multimeter set to Volts AC it should read 220-240 Volts at the connection.... Please Be Careful
[OP]
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Sep 29, 2005
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BTW, if I ultimately buy a new range, I have pretty much decided that I want one that is not too fancy and less expensive so there is less to break and less to scrap when it also dies.

This stove is a Whirlpool and I think I want to avoid any of the brands that come from the same factory like Amana, Maytag, etc. My previous stove was a Frigidaire that had just as many problems but worse in the sense that cost of parts was through the roof. I'm similarly not impressed with Samsung and LG reviews although they look great.

If I were to buy a new stove, I've pretty much decided that my new stove will be this for $899:

https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/in ... l/12471908

It's an exact clone of a GE model I saw at Corbeil appliances for $100 more.
I would also buy the 5 year warrantee for $170 which the Best Buy sales guy said they would discount.
Corbeil's 5 year warrantee for the GE was $194.

It seems that the cooktop is the weak part of the GE in that it seems to scratch more easily than other brands so I'm not ready to decide yet.
Phils
[OP]
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Sep 29, 2005
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Sorry, I meant ohms - not voltage. I corrected my post above.
Phils
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Jul 7, 2017
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Phils wrote: Sorry, I meant ohms - not voltage. I corrected my post above.
If resistance is infinite, it would imply there's a crack in the element and it may be sporadic (may make contact and work or come apart and not). Unlikely though.
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Phils wrote:

If I were to buy a new stove, I've pretty much decided that my new stove will be this for $899:

https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/in ... l/12471908



It seems that the cooktop is the weak part of the GE in that it seems to scratch more easily than other brands so I'm not ready to decide yet.
We have a GE Profile stove that looks similar to this, same display and buttons etc, ours has a few more bells and whistles. We got a 'smoking' Smiling Face With Open Mouth And Smiling Eyes deal on it through the distributor, 50% off. Anyway, it's over ten years old now and has never given us a problem ( touch wood). The cooking surface is pretty much like new, so unless they've scaled back on the quality recently or the Profile series has better glass, I wouldn't worry about it.

Good luck with the repair....
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[OP]
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Sep 29, 2005
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Montreal
OK guys, based on your advice, I changed the element. Once I got it out of the oven, the old one was obviously finished. At the same time I tested the temperature probe and it was fine. The element is installed and we're testing it now. So far, it really looks like that's all that was needed.

Thanks so much.

I learned a lot here and, of course, Youtube videos of how to do what was needed. Turned out to be a quick easy fix.
Phils
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Aug 1, 2018
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Thanks for the update, glad you got it fixed... As far as learning, I'm up there in age and still learn a lot perusing these forums...
[OP]
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Sep 29, 2005
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Montreal
RFD is something of a one-stop-shop.
No matter the subject, there are almost always people around who go out of their way to help.

A wise man once said you learn something new everyday. This was my turn.
Phils

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