Automotive

MK7.5 Volkswagen Golf, GTI, and Golf R Discussion Thread

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Mar 13, 2004
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Nope never, reds would not make noise, yellow I was afraid they could because they are supposed to be a harder pad but in the rear of the Golf R I never had any noise.
Kingsmen17 wrote: Any brake squeal with the EBCs? I heard some complaints that they’re noisy.
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Mar 1, 2008
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Kingsmen17 wrote: It seems EBC Redstuff cold bite rating isn't as good:

https://ebcbrakes.com/product/redstuff-brake-pads/

EBC Yellowstuff:

https://ebcbrakes.com/product/yellowstu ... rack-pads/
There's also the EBC GreenStuff. Should be a decent improvement all around over the stock pads. And of course, Hawk, StopTech, ATE, etc. FCP Euro and WCT Performance sells a wide variety of them.
sickcars wrote: I had EBC Reds before and for the street they were good, low brake dust, felt like they had a little bit more initial bite then OEM pads but that could of been because they were new and such. These are not good on the track they will easily overheat
Did the RedStuff in the rear overheat at the track? I don't think I brake has hard as you considering your R is significantly faster than me. I learned how to swap pads last weekend and I think my brakes may have overheated a bit at the track. Will throw up a photo later.
sickcars wrote: Nope never, reds would not make noise, yellow I was afraid they could because they are supposed to be a harder pad but in the rear of the Golf R I never had any noise.
Same. No noise on the YellowStuff.
RFD is love. RFD is life.
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Naw the rears dont get used enough to over heat. So basically your fronts would generally overheat first and force you off the track due to brake fade because the rears will overheat. I have talked to guys who track their cars in CW and they have used OEM rear pads for years without issues so using ebc reds or yellows in the rear would just improve on that. unless of course you have a caliper sticking or something then maybe.
geokilla wrote: There's also the EBC GreenStuff. Should be a decent improvement all around over the stock pads. And of course, Hawk, StopTech, ATE, etc. FCP Euro and WCT Performance sells a wide variety of them.



Did the RedStuff in the rear overheat at the track? I don't think I brake has hard as you considering your R is significantly faster than me. I learned how to swap pads last weekend and I think my brakes may have overheated a bit at the track. Will throw up a photo later.



Same. No noise on the YellowStuff.
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Jul 14, 2013
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Installed winters (215/50R17) yesterday and realized how high the OEM PSI is. Do you still run them at 39PSI when you downsize to 17"/18", when the tire circumference is the same?
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Feb 15, 2003
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n0thing wrote: Installed winters (215/50R17) yesterday and realized how high the OEM PSI is. Do you still run them at 39PSI when you downsize to 17"/18", when the tire circumference is the same?
Plug in your old and new tire dimensions here into this calculator to determine the pressure in your new tire. It mostly depends on the load ratings on your old/new tire.

https://tiresize.com/pressure-calculator/
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gpomp wrote: Plug in your old and new tire dimensions here into this calculator to determine the pressure in your new tire. It mostly depends on the load ratings on your old/new tire.

https://tiresize.com/pressure-calculator/
Didn't know there's a tire pressure calculator. It's giving me 34PSI, a huge drop from OEM.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.js ... toModClar=
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/tires/pd ... 72309.html
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fatcowxlive wrote: 2020 GTI DSG Autobahn
MSRP: $38,145
Freight: $1,685
Admin: $499
Wheel locks: $80
October Sale: -$500
= $39,908
Additional discount: -$2,200
= $37,708

With my trade in of $4,577 the total monthly payment, taxes in, is $418.28
Just wanted to give an update and share a data point for everyone. I decided to pull the trigger yesterday on the Autobahn (3yr lease, 25km/yr). I was able to negotiate an extra ~$750 on top of the above. I also took my trade as cash upon delivery of the new vehicle. I was debating about going the MSD route, but that would mean tying up $3,120 for only $750 in savings, a roughly ~23% ROI in 3 years which isn’t enough since the money is extremely not liquid. Thanks everyone for the discussions!
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n0thing wrote: Didn't know there's a tire pressure calculator. It's giving me 34PSI, a huge drop from OEM.
The PSI given on the door card is only for the tire spec (size and load/speed rating) that comes with the car. 39 PSI on your 17s will almost definitely be slightly overinflated.
whirlwinds wrote: https://www.tsxclub.com/attachments/dis ... pdf.47187/

The calculator is based on this chart. Have a look and you should have the same values, 34psi.
I use that chart as well, its posted constantly on various forums when people ask what PSI for new tires.
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May 12, 2019
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So my brake pad wear sensor on the car side decided to shear itself off today...
Image

Gonna try and see if I can get VW to pay for it - its a '16 R with 23K on it. Absolutely stupid for this to happen :(

Still haven't gotten the blind spot monitoring fixed either - VW recommended a new side mirror and that didn't work.
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How di that happen? Was the cable routed incorrectly?
419justblaz wrote: So my brake pad wear sensor on the car side decided to shear itself off today...
Image

Gonna try and see if I can get VW to pay for it - its a '16 R with 23K on it. Absolutely stupid for this to happen :(

Still haven't gotten the blind spot monitoring fixed either - VW recommended a new side mirror and that didn't work.
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sickcars wrote: How di that happen? Was the cable routed incorrectly?
I think it had popped out of the little clip that holds the wire in and then screwed itself up. I have the part number for the connector clip: 1j0973802 . If it was my old car I would have fixed it myself and crimped new wires on but on a Golf R I'd rather let someone else do a much cleaner and professional job.
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Thats assuming they will do a proper professional job dealers can cut corners also. But yes its under warranty let them do it.
419justblaz wrote: I think it had popped out of the little clip that holds the wire in and then screwed itself up. I have the part number for the connector clip: 1j0973802 . If it was my old car I would have fixed it myself and crimped new wires on but on a Golf R I'd rather let someone else do a much cleaner and professional job.
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sickcars wrote: Thats assuming they will do a proper professional job dealers can cut corners also. But yes its under warranty let them do it.
My bumper to bumper is expired (4 years) by 3 months so I don't think warranty will cover it. Maybe I'll take it to the Audi/VW specialist near me instead then...
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I guess find out the cost for the repair and compare it to you doing it yourself or a shop. That sensor will be replaced when you put in new brake pads and if you are somebody that regularly keeps an eye on your car then you dont even need it. I have a BBK on my R so I dont even use the sensor anymore.
419justblaz wrote: My bumper to bumper is expired (4 years) by 3 months so I don't think warranty will cover it. Maybe I'll take it to the Audi/VW specialist near me instead then...
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sickcars wrote: I guess find out the cost for the repair and compare it to you doing it yourself or a shop. That sensor will be replaced when you put in new brake pads and if you are somebody that regularly keeps an eye on your car then you dont even need it. I have a BBK on my R so I dont even use the sensor anymore.
The problem is that the wire that is damaged isnt the one coming from the brake pad but rather the one coming from the car itself. Could short out and cause the BCMs to freak out. I will probably disable it until I get it repaired in the meantime via OBD11.
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Ahhh ok thats different then. Wonder how easy it is to replace then. I would get a quote first from the dealer. If its something easy as unplugging it you can likely do it yourself but it may go back to the computer which may be an issue.
419justblaz wrote: The problem is that the wire that is damaged isnt the one coming from the brake pad but rather the one coming from the car itself. Could short out and cause the BCMs to freak out. I will probably disable it until I get it repaired in the meantime via OBD11.
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sickcars wrote: Ahhh ok thats different then. Wonder how easy it is to replace then. I would get a quote first from the dealer. If its something easy as unplugging it you can likely do it yourself but it may go back to the computer which may be an issue.
Just got off the phone with VW dealer and a VW independent specialist. $350 at dealer and $275 at the VW/Audi specialist. Both of them recommend that the entire ABS wiring loom be cut and spliced with a new loom instead instead of just taking the existing wires and putting a new connector on at the end. Can anyone explain this logic to me?
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Unless its a pain in the a$$ to add those connectors or something?

Another option if this guy is interested in even doing it is talk to John from CW - https://www.mk6ix.com/ He is the Electrical god when it comes to this sort of stuff, he really knows his stuff and does not cheap out and does everything 100%
He added a traction button to my moms Jetta for me which involves tapping into I think the abs module in the engine bay & then coding and so on. Maybe shoot him a msg with some photos and see what he says. I know hes always super busy so not sure if he will have time but I would trust him over any of those shops for something like this.
419justblaz wrote: Just got off the phone with VW dealer and a VW independent specialist. $350 at dealer and $275 at the VW/Audi specialist. Both of them recommend that the entire ABS wiring loom be cut and spliced with a new loom instead instead of just taking the existing wires and putting a new connector on at the end. Can anyone explain this logic to me?
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sickcars wrote: Unless its a pain in the a$$ to add those connectors or something?

Another option if this guy is interested in even doing it is talk to John from CW - https://www.mk6ix.com/ He is the Electrical god when it comes to this sort of stuff, he really knows his stuff and does not cheap out and does everything 100%
He added a traction button to my moms Jetta for me which involves tapping into I think the abs module in the engine bay & then coding and so on. Maybe shoot him a msg with some photos and see what he says. I know hes always super busy so not sure if he will have time but I would trust him over any of those shops for something like this.
I’ve seen John’s work before and I wasn’t all that impressed to be honest. He tried to install aliexpress tail lights on a dudes car and couldn’t unless he opened and resoldered the entire tail light. I ended up installing it in 2 hours while fixing his work.

Maybe that just wasn’t his specialty though - do you know where his shop is?

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