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More Weeds than grass, What to do?

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teedomo88 wrote: We can one get Par3 or Killex in Ontario?
eBay, likely. It isn't legal to use in Ontario (if you're residential and using it cosmetically) so you won't find any shops selling it to retail.
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First mow in the Spring after did the overseeding 4 weeks ago
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If you're lawn isn't deep green and thick right now (unless you've just done a major dethatch/top dress/seed) than you need to investigate why!
>Wake up and take the orange pill ...
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I want to fix up my dandelion-filled lawn. I live near Toronto. Please let me know what you think of my plan and if I'm missing anything!

Planning to do the following in order:
1. Kill weeds (mainly dandelions) with Wilson Weedout Ultra
2. Cultivate the lawn (with manual cultivator)
3. Spread grass seed with seed spreader (this is what I have: All-purpose Grass Seed - https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/all- ... 6303p.html)
4. Cultivate the lawn again
5. Spread top soil with fertilizer built in (this is what I have: Scotts Turf Builder Enriched Lawn Soil - https://www.homedepot.ca/product/scotts ... 1000404109)
6. Water lawn @ 8am and 8pm

Edit: think I may need a fertilizer with higher NPK number than the Scotts Turf Builder though I'm not sure what the ratio should look like. I just know I need to green my lawn (N) and strengthen new root growth (P); some K probably wouldn't harm my grass.

Thanks!
Last edited by 7Chirp on May 5th, 2021 11:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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superscoots wrote: If you're lawn isn't deep green and thick right now (unless you've just done a major dethatch/top dress/seed) than you need to investigate why!
I did scarifier by Sun Joe, aerate plus my own mox/blend of soil+seeds+peatmoss
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Another one to show off..lol
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kiasu wrote: Another one to show off..lol
I'm jealous. My new house lawn is a total mess. Going to take a couple of seasons to get it into shape.
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QuicKi7 wrote: I want to fix up my dandelion-filled lawn. I live near Toronto. Please let me know what you think of my plan and if I'm missing anything!

Planning to do the following in order:
1. Kill weeds (mainly dandelions) with Wilson Weedout Ultra
2. Cultivate the lawn (with manual cultivator)
3. Spread grass seed with seed spreader (this is what I have: All-purpose Grass Seed - https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/all- ... 6303p.html)
4. Cultivate the lawn again
5. Spread top soil with fertilizer built in (this is what I have: Scotts Turf Builder Enriched Lawn Soil - https://www.homedepot.ca/product/scotts ... 1000404109)
6. Water lawn @ 8am and 8pm

Edit: think I may need a fertilizer with higher NPK number than the Scotts Turf Builder though I'm not sure what the ratio should look like. I just know I need to green my lawn (N) and strengthen new root growth (P); some K probably wouldn't harm my grass.

Thanks!
You can skip step 2 unless your lawn is beyond repair i.e. a lot of pesky crabgrass, clover etc. You could be fine using a regular or a thatching rake like this - https://www.rona.ca/en/garant-thatching ... 19-0123652

Also step 4 can be skipped, a light rake after adding top soil should be enough. You don't need to disturb the seed too much, the light raking is to get a light layer of dirt on top of the seed for soil contact as well as so that the seeds dont blow/wash away. I prefer to spread starter fertilizer before I spread the seed because I don't want to step on the seed and push it too deep.

The Starter fertilizer from Scott's is good enough. You don't need high N for overseeding, just the P is good enough.

edit: I also suggest to pull the weeds out over using the Weedout Ultra. Use something like this - https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/fisk ... 6739p.html
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Mar 22, 2017
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QuicKi7 wrote: I want to fix up my dandelion-filled lawn. I live near Toronto. Please let me know what you think of my plan and if I'm missing anything!

Planning to do the following in order:
1. Kill weeds (mainly dandelions) with Wilson Weedout Ultra
2. Cultivate the lawn (with manual cultivator)
3. Spread grass seed with seed spreader (this is what I have: All-purpose Grass Seed - https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/all- ... 6303p.html)
4. Cultivate the lawn again
5. Spread top soil with fertilizer built in (this is what I have: Scotts Turf Builder Enriched Lawn Soil - https://www.homedepot.ca/product/scotts ... 1000404109)
6. Water lawn @ 8am and 8pm

Edit: think I may need a fertilizer with higher NPK number than the Scotts Turf Builder though I'm not sure what the ratio should look like. I just know I need to green my lawn (N) and strengthen new root growth (P); some K probably wouldn't harm my grass.

Thanks!
I'd skip the weedout, as it's basically 2-4D and may impact germination and establishment of your grass. If you're planning on cultivating the lawn (aka killing what's on it), just use glyphosate. You can seed right after using glyphosate. Here's an alternative:

1. Kill weeds with glyphosate.
2. Wait three days for the product to translocate to the roots.
3. Cut the lawn low.
3. Topdress with lawn soil. You can cultivate lightly here to break up the soil surface and mix up the soil.
4. Broadcast grass seed.
5. Rake it in so seed is lightly covered. I use the back of a leaf rake.
6. Water as much as required to keep soil damp for three weeks.
7. Once you have plenty of germination (keep watering even after the first seeds pop, as you'll have other species that take longer), apply a starter fertilizer.
8. Cut once the grass reaches over two inches, and cut at two inches. This encourages tillering.
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Sep 8, 2017
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grumble wrote: 1. Kill weeds with glyphosate.
2. Wait three days for the product to translocate to the roots.
3. Cut the lawn low.
3. Topdress with lawn soil. You can cultivate lightly here to break up the soil surface and mix up the soil.
4. Broadcast grass seed.
5. Rake it in so seed is lightly covered. I use the back of a leaf rake.
6. Water as much as required to keep soil damp for three weeks.
7. Once you have plenty of germination (keep watering even after the first seeds pop, as you'll have other species that take longer), apply a starter fertilizer.
8. Cut once the grass reaches over two inches, and cut at two inches. This encourages tillering.
+1 for this

And good tip from @anon_s about putting down the starter fertilizer before seeding. I did it 2 weeks after seeding, and I was having to walk on the newly sprouted seedlings. I didn't like that, but in the end, I guess it didn't make a big difference. The lawn still came in nice.
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grumble wrote: I'd skip the weedout, as it's basically 2-4D and may impact germination and establishment of your grass. If you're planning on cultivating the lawn (aka killing what's on it), just use glyphosate. You can seed right after using glyphosate. Here's an alternative:

1. Kill weeds with glyphosate.
2. Wait three days for the product to translocate to the roots.
3. Cut the lawn low.
3. Topdress with lawn soil. You can cultivate lightly here to break up the soil surface and mix up the soil.
4. Broadcast grass seed.
5. Rake it in so seed is lightly covered. I use the back of a leaf rake.
6. Water as much as required to keep soil damp for three weeks.
7. Once you have plenty of germination (keep watering even after the first seeds pop, as you'll have other species that take longer), apply a starter fertilizer.
8. Cut once the grass reaches over two inches, and cut at two inches. This encourages tillering.
is glyphosate same as 2-4-d?
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Nov 10, 2005
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kiasu wrote: Another one to show off..lol
You still need to do some edge work and get rid of the grass/weeds growing through the cracks of the driveway.
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berklon wrote: You still need to do some edge work and get rid of the grass/weeds growing through the cracks of the driveway.
i know...that's the second part...

does anyone have any link about using trimmer to trim the side or edge
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grumble wrote: I'd skip the weedout, as it's basically 2-4D and may impact germination and establishment of your grass. If you're planning on cultivating the lawn (aka killing what's on it), just use glyphosate. You can seed right after using glyphosate. Here's an alternative:

1. Kill weeds with glyphosate.
2. Wait three days for the product to translocate to the roots.
3. Cut the lawn low.
3. Topdress with lawn soil. You can cultivate lightly here to break up the soil surface and mix up the soil.
4. Broadcast grass seed.
5. Rake it in so seed is lightly covered. I use the back of a leaf rake.
6. Water as much as required to keep soil damp for three weeks.
7. Once you have plenty of germination (keep watering even after the first seeds pop, as you'll have other species that take longer), apply a starter fertilizer.
8. Cut once the grass reaches over two inches, and cut at two inches. This encourages tillering.
I'm new to this thread, where can I buy glyhphosate? My lawn looks horrible. The front has dandelions and the back has crab grass and clovers.

Thanks.
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Jan 27, 2006
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kiasu wrote: is glyphosate same as 2-4-d?
No, glyphosate kills everything where 2,4-d is selective.
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boonjaca wrote: I'm new to this thread, where can I buy glyhphosate? My lawn looks horrible. The front has dandelions and the back has crab grass and clovers.

Thanks.
Unless you want dead patches on your lawn from the glyphosate, I would pass on glyphosate as it kills everything. Stick with something like 2,4-D for the dandelions and clovers and get some quinclorac or similar for the crabgrass.
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Nov 23, 2011
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Question for everyone. I laid down some sod last week; did my best at manually tilling, watering, putting down starter fertilizer. I need to put down some more this weekend but don't have any more soil left for leveling and such.

I noticed places like Lowe's, Home Depot etc don't sell a proper bagged topsoil. The grading style, dense topsoils are bulk only. Since we don't have a truck to load up the back with soil, any suggestions on what to put down under the sod and leveling the surrounding area?
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May 15, 2020
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Thornhill ON
For small areas to fill voids i use Turf Builder bagged soil, it is beefier than just top soil. But if you need more you could order delivery from bulk soil suppliers, as little as 1/2 cubic yard in a bulk bag.
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Sep 3, 2019
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anon_s wrote: You can skip step 2 unless your lawn is beyond repair i.e. a lot of pesky crabgrass, clover etc. You could be fine using a regular or a thatching rake like this - https://www.rona.ca/en/garant-thatching ... 19-0123652

Also step 4 can be skipped, a light rake after adding top soil should be enough. You don't need to disturb the seed too much, the light raking is to get a light layer of dirt on top of the seed for soil contact as well as so that the seeds dont blow/wash away. I prefer to spread starter fertilizer before I spread the seed because I don't want to step on the seed and push it too deep.

The Starter fertilizer from Scott's is good enough. You don't need high N for overseeding, just the P is good enough.

edit: I also suggest to pull the weeds out over using the Weedout Ultra. Use something like this - https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/fisk ... 6739p.html
The Scotts Turf Builder only has 0.08N 0.03P 0.02K. That's enough?

Like the idea of fertilizing first. Will also pick up the Fisker.

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