Home & Garden

Need Air Conditioner Electrical Repair Advice

  • Last Updated:
  • Jul 6th, 2021 2:24 pm
[OP]
Jr. Member
Oct 16, 2009
107 posts
30 upvotes

Need Air Conditioner Electrical Repair Advice

Hi everyone!

My problem is the compressor in our apartment AC won't activate. I believe the issue is electrical.

I have 2 questions:
  1. How do you replace/remove this old contactor/thermostat unit (see photos)?
  2. See my notes below. If it's not the contactor/thermostat, maybe it's the condenser terminal wires? What do you think?

AC NOTES:
  • Fan/motors work fine. But compressor won't turn on.
  • The unit is a very old completely analog combination heating/cooling unit. Early 80's I think. Don't know what the model is (and couldn't figure it out), but the label says "McQuay Incremental Conditioner". Can't find a repair manual. Looks similar to this:
    McQuay-EA-PTAC.jpg
  • It SEEMS the contactor/thermostat is a shared unit. There is a copper thermistor bulb that connects to the area behind the contactor (which I believe is the thermostat). In image 1 (front view), in the exact center of that unit you see a thin vertical cylinder; that's connected to the temperature dial above the c/t unit. When I turn that dial to the right (cooler setting), the metal "platform" in the center of the unit rises upwards, and when I turn the dial to the left (warmer setting) that platform lowers.
FIRST REPAIR ATTEMPT NOTES:
  • Condenser/evap coils evaporator coils are clean. Both capacitors are tested.
  • I SUSPECT there's an issue with the contactor/thermostat unit. When I press it down, it sticks down a bit. There are 3 leads; one on the left (A), and 2 on the right (one behind (B) and one in front (C)). When the plunger is up/open, A&B produce intermittent continuity. When the plunger is down, B&C produce intermittent continuity.
  • Since I didn't know how to remove the contactor, I cleaned the exposed plunger coil with a toothbrush. Seems to not stick now when I press it down (but I think I damaged it when I cleaned it, see below).
AFTER FIRST REPAIR:
  • Prior to my first repair, you could sometimes "force" the compressor on my turning the temperature dial a bit towards warmer until you hear a click (which I guess is supposed to be compressor-off), then turn the dial a bit towards cooler until you hear a click, and SOMETIMES the compressor would activate.
  • But after my "repairs" above, this trick no longer works. In fact, while the unit is on, I used a stick to manually press down on the contactor plunger, and the compressor STILL won't turn on.
  • This AC is also our source of heat in the winter, and now the heating-mode won't work either.
PICS OF CONTACTOR:
  1. FRONT VIEW. Took off front plastic (not pictured). Right above the contactor is the temperature-control dial (not pictured). The box the contactor is in seems to be shared with the temperature controls.
    20210704_155509a.jpg
  2. SIDE-ISH VIEW. Seems to be a couple of plastic holding clasps on both sides, but the unit won't budge when I push.
    20210704_155602b.jpg
  3. BOTTOM VIEW. I removed a metal cover (not pictured) to expose the gold-screw at the rear. Looks like a previous tech put an arrow on it. I didn't try turning this screw, as I don't know what it is and worried the temperature control assembly may come apart (and I don't think I can put it back together).
    20210704_155624c.jpg

I'm suspecting the issue is either:
  1. The thermostat/contactor unit. Thinking my issue is likely one of those components inside the unit, as the contactor isn't contacting anymore. I'm nervous about removing it because there seems to be gears and springs inside and if anything falls out of place I have no reference to put it back together.
  2. Burned condenser terminals. Although this wouldn't explain why the contactor is no-longer contacting right?
  3. Blown fuse somewhere. Haven't seen any fuses; will dig deeper into the unit tomorrow. But again, a blown condenser fuse wouldn't explain why the contactor is no-longer contacting right?

So I'm thinking it's likely the thermostat/contactor unit, or something else electrical. NO IDEA how to repair a mechanical thermostat or contactor, and I can't even remove the thing. Any advice on how to remove the contactor, or other ideas on what else may be causing my problem (or any advice at all) would be appreciated.
7 replies
Sr. Member
Jan 19, 2013
698 posts
611 upvotes
Ottawa
Pull the adjustment knobs straight out, and remove the escutcheon cover if there is, should find the screws holding the thermostat in place...
Checked that you have voltage from "B to ground, that would be your common from what you said
If so probably the sensing bulb lost its charge since both modes dont work.
Nothing serviceable in the thermostat, it would just need to be replaced.
If you know what youre doing, you can bypass the thermostat easily to determine if that has failed.
[OP]
Jr. Member
Oct 16, 2009
107 posts
30 upvotes
1chinaman wrote: Checked that you have voltage from "B to ground, that would be your common from what you said
Thanks for the reply! I'm a novice, so how do I do that (need very clear instructions)? FYI I have a standard electronics multimeter.
1chinaman wrote: If you know what youre doing, you can bypass the thermostat easily to determine if that has failed.
I don't know what I'm doing. How would I bypass the thermostat? FYI I did try pressing down on the plunger of the contactor when the machine was running, but it didn't engage the compressor.
Deal Fanatic
Jul 7, 2017
9723 posts
5116 upvotes
SW corner of the cou…
jellytot88 wrote: I don't know what I'm doing. How would I bypass the thermostat? FYI I did try pressing down on the plunger of the contactor when the machine was running, but it didn't engage the compressor.
Get a non-contact voltage detector and determine if there is power going to the compressor (with the contactor engaged). If there is power and the condenser hums, then it probably isn't starting due to a capacitor (but you said you've checked those).

As for thermostats, they usually make contact (closed circuit) when engaged or v-v.
I smile when I see container ships sailing past my house laden with stuff made in China
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Sep 27, 2006
5530 posts
2385 upvotes
Not so easy there Ma…
Everything there looks like line voltage, awkward and thus hazardous. If you're going to try measuring anything with that meter use alligator clips and only turn the circuit breaker on when not touching anything. Otherwise you could inadvertently do voltage ===> jellytot88 ===> ground. That could be lethal.
Sr. Member
Jan 19, 2013
698 posts
611 upvotes
Ottawa
jellytot88 wrote: Thanks for the reply! I'm a novice, so how do I do that (need very clear instructions)? FYI I have a standard electronics multimeter.

I don't know what I'm doing. How would I bypass the thermostat? FYI I did try pressing down on the plunger of the contactor when the machine was running, but it didn't engage the compressor.
Dont know how i can be more clear on how to check voltage from "B" to "ground"....
Think its best if you call a pro to have a look at it.
Like fergy said electricity can be lethal. This unit likely 240v too, more fun.
[OP]
Jr. Member
Oct 16, 2009
107 posts
30 upvotes
abstract808 wrote: OP, how did you test the capacitor?
Yes.

UPDATE:

AC is repaired!. This conclusion was written to help anyone else what may be in a similar issue.
  1. I messed up the thermostat when I turned the temperature dial too much to the left, so it was no longer closing-circuit properly. But the gold screw in image 3 ("Bottom-view") acts as an adjuster, so turning that counter-clockwise fixed the thermostat/contactor issue. But the compressor still wasn't turning on.
  2. Dug deeper, and found that one of the wires at the compressor terminals had burned-off. Tested the compressor health using multimeter, then cut the wire and crimped a new disconnect lead. Works fine now.

Thanks to all whom responded!

Top