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New build electrician advice

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  • Jan 5th, 2021 8:35 pm
[OP]
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Nov 3, 2003
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Knowhere

New build electrician advice

Hi All

I had a meeting with the electrician and needless to say they were not helpful with suggestions.

So just wanted to reach out here and ask what are somethings you would ask for in a new build.

I've already asked for dual high amp chargers for the garage (one on each side), GFI plug on the kichen island, microwave and fridge plug in there too, 2 more swtiches, one in the kitchen to trim off the living room and family room and the other is in the master bedroom close to the bed.

I know I'll be asking to add more power outlets in the hallways, bathroom and closet and a couple more cat5e ethernet jacks in some rooms including basement.
Last edited by shinsky on Dec 22nd, 2020 3:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Since you are located Knowhere, there is no electrical code for that location hence your screwed Winking Face

Now if you were in a province like Ontario, GFCI outlets for the island is required by code if there is water nearby, and outlets need to be installed at least every 6 feet.
There are lots of other code requirements, but most of them work in your benefit.
As for switches and so forth, you can add more as needed and same for outlets.

Many people love potlights, i hate them. They are energy inefficient, expensive and have poor light coverage.
If you are like me and like lots of light you want fixtures installed generously and preferably with more than one bulb (and fits 100W eq LED bulbs).

Also generous under cabinet lighting with lots of lumens. Some are pathetically low lumen outputs.

Get a high capacity whole house surge suppressor installed in the breaker box.

If you will ever have tenants or an inlaw suite wire it now so you can retrofit a separate electrical service easily.

Buy an induction stove and wire for it. If you are going for gas for some reason wire for induction anyways.

Consider if you might have solar or battery storage someday. Install conduit for them.
In fact in Rand McNally they wear hats on their feet and hamburders eat people
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Jun 21, 2003
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Your island requires a receptacle so you will get one no matter what. If will only be GFI if it’s within 1.5m of a sink. If this one is NOT GFI I would recommend using a receptacle with USB outlets built in. It’s always nice to be able to charge your gadgets without an extra wall adaptor adding bulk. If this outlet does require GFI just ask them to feed it from one of the other kitchen outlets that is GFI and you’ll still be protected.

Personally while you could consider conduit for solar I wouldn’t worry about it now unless you’re absolutely certain you’re going to do it and have the system designed now. The conduit is basically all exterior of your home anyways as it will go from the roof to a new meter base on the outside of your home. You’re typically selling your solar hydro back to your provider to offset your hydro usage. I wouldn’t spend money now on this at all. It won’t make any difference at all down the road, use the money on more immediate features that are harder to do after the fact.

Along with your Ethernet I would consider having an outlet placed at every location you want to wall mount a tv, assuming you plan to walk mount TVs. Along that same line if you’re going to have an entertainment stand below your TV have them install a conduit from down there to behind the tv (central vac pipe is great for this) so you can run your cables out of site.

Not exactly electrical but consider having the electrician rough in speaker wire in your ceilings if you may like that. We use Spotify frequently and I installed inceilings when we moved in through our kitchen and family room. It’s a great way to have music playing in the background.

Request what is usually called a “holiday receptacle”. It’s a receptacle installed in your soffit wired to a switch in the house so you can have a nice spot to plug in your Christmas lights (if you plan to have some that is). It’s a nice touch that really cleans up your light install.

For valence lighting I would personally request 120V to each location instead of low voltage wire. It opens up your options to a lot more choices of fixtures.

If you have glass cabinets in your kitchen cupboards I’d put lights in there. It’s just an ambience thing but a nice look.

Pot light over your sink that is individually controlled is nice for doing dishes.

I also agree about the whole home surge. One other thing to consider with your service is a transfer switch. If you think you may consider a generator down the road the install is easier if there’s a transfer switch already in your service.

All of these suggestions come from an electrician that did all of these (except the transfer switch) on my own home when we moved on. It was a little more work in all cases to do as a bought an older finished home, not a new build. Haha.
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Sep 23, 2019
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Get GFI power outlets very close to the main bathroom toilets - in the future, it is possible that you will want bidet seats.
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RedFlagAlias wrote: Get GFI power outlets very close to the main bathroom toilets - in the future, it is possible that you will want bidet seats.
This will depend on where your toilet is in relation to your tub/shower. No receptacle can be within 500mm of either of those. It is recommended to be at least 1m away but absolutely can not be within 500mm of them.
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ChicoQuente wrote: If this outlet does require GFI just ask them to feed it from one of the other kitchen outlets that is GFI and you’ll still be protected.
This is an interesting idea, a workaround so a USB outlet can be installed.
Personally while you could consider conduit for solar I wouldn’t worry about it now unless you’re absolutely certain you’re going to do it and have the system designed now. The conduit is basically all exterior of your home anyways as it will go from the roof to a new meter base on the outside of your home. You’re typically selling your solar hydro back to your provider to offset your hydro usage. I wouldn’t spend money now on this at all. It won’t make any difference at all down the road, use the money on more immediate features that are harder to do after the fact.
In the last decade solar prices have dropped over 75% And they are continuing to fall. In time it will be stupid to not install solar. Electricity prices continue to rise while solar prices continue to fall. So definitely think about this now. Do not neglect it when you have an opportunity to plan it out and make all necessary changes when it costs the least to do so.
That said you do not need to install solar now or even tomorrow but low cost future proofing (with conduit in the ideal spot at the design stage, any necessary framing reinforcement and so forth) will pay dividends later for you or subsequent owners.
Frankly its stupid to not address this now.
I also agree about the whole home surge. One other thing to consider with your service is a transfer switch. If you think you may consider a generator down the road the install is easier if there’s a transfer switch already in your service.
Agreed, though make sure it can be used for gas/natural gas generator or battery such as Tesla powerwall or future competitor.
In fact in Rand McNally they wear hats on their feet and hamburders eat people
[OP]
Sr. Member
Nov 3, 2003
517 posts
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Knowhere
@Quentin5 LOL maybe I should update my location!

Thanks for the input everyone! This has given me some ideas.

I'll post the layout of the plug, lights and switches and if you have any suggestions let me know!

I'm avoiding the usb plugs that are included with the outlets. Maybe I'm wrong but I find the amp to be too low.

Right now, I'm going to ask for these and see what the responses are. I hope I didn't miss anything!

1. Upgrade the 200 amp electrical service with circuit breaker panel to a higher amage. Could you provide the options available?
2. High capacity whole house  surge suppressor installed in the breaker box
3. Transfer switch for a generator
4. Switch for the christmas lights outside.
5. Add power outlet to the following places   
a) Laundry room (on the corner near the sink). If not possible, where would we be able to place one in there?   
b) 2nd floor - when you walk up the last flight of stairs in front ( away from the stair railing side) 
 c) 2nd floor - outside the laundry room door
6. Wiring done for an induction stove in the kitchen
7. Possibility of solar or battery storage, what would be necessary for this to happen? (ie. conduit)
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Last edited by shinsky on Dec 21st, 2020 2:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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If your interested grab a copy of Electrical Code Simplified. I think Home Depot sells them.
It won't give you ideas per se but does explain how the electrical code works which may indirectly give you ideas.

Assuming your into technical reading.
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I posted before i saw your blueprint post.
For solar i suggest calling up several installers and see who would be willing to provide a consult for a reasonable fee.

As for USB outlets you can replace outlets yourself easily in the future if your good with your hands.
In fact in Rand McNally they wear hats on their feet and hamburders eat people
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shinsky wrote: 1. Upgrade the 200 amp electrical service with circuit breaker panel to a higher amage. Could you provide the options available?
I don't have time at the moment to really go over your place but I will say that unless you've got a lot of money to burn I would stick with the 200A service. Over 200A, typically you're looking at a 400A in my experience but you're going to see costs go up VERY drastically. Unless you're building a very large home, operating a grow op on site or something I can't see any reason it will be necessary.
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I glanced at your blueprint and find myself thinking about smart integrations.
Unfortunately i have no experience with them so cannot advise you on them.
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Quentin5 wrote: Buy an induction stove and wire for it. If you are going for gas for some reason wire for induction anyways.
We have a gas stove that we're looking to replace with an Induction cooktop.

Is there anything needed, electrical-wise?

Other than a socket in the cabinet to plug in the stove, there isnt anything else needed right?
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lolbeast wrote: We have a gas stove that we're looking to replace with an Induction cooktop.

Is there anything needed, electrical-wise?

Other than a socket in the cabinet to plug in the stove, there isnt anything else needed right?
I’m not sure if you’re aware or not but you’ll likely need an electrician to run the circuit for you. It’s not just a normal receptacle for these units. They are large draw appliances so you will need a brand new dedicated circuit from your panel.
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ChicoQuente wrote: I’m not sure if you’re aware or not but you’ll likely need an electrician to run the circuit for you. It’s not just a normal receptacle for these units. They are large draw appliances so you will need a brand new dedicated circuit from your panel.
This.
It won't run off a 120V standard outlet, it needs the regular electric stove plug.
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shinsky wrote: I've already asked for dual high amp chargers for the garage (one on each side), GFI plug on the kichen island, microwave and fridge plug in there too, 2 more swtiches, one in the kitchen to trim off the living room and family room and the other is in the master bedroom close to the bed.
I would go with a sub panel for the garage. Tesla’s vs Nissan Leafs vs ??? All have their charging ports in different spots it seems, so unless you are rocking electric now, I would put in a 100 amp sub panel. Then you can charge 2 cars and weld at the same time :)
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My electrician did speaker wiring for us and we wired for a tv antenna in the attic.

1 regret is that we didn't put outlets in our floors. Our house is open concept so we have an extension cord in a walkway to charge our computers at the couch. Since our couch is not beside a wall we also can't have lamps.
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Jerico wrote: I would go with a sub panel for the garage. Tesla’s vs Nissan Leafs vs ??? All have their charging ports in different spots it seems, so unless you are rocking electric now, I would put in a 100 amp sub panel. Then you can charge 2 cars and weld at the same time :)
I wouldn't put any chargers in the garage right now, unless you already have an EV. From my casual observance, the tech on those is changing all the time, and why spend money on something that may be obsolete in 10 years. Installing wiring and a sub panel, absolutely.

Same goes for all those USB port receptacles. They are convenient ATM, but in a few years you'll be fumbling around trying to find the adapter.
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Jan 8, 2011
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  1. Lighting automation? I used Lutron Caseta and am very pleased.
  2. Motorised blinds? Run power to them, I’m forever changing the batteries in mine.
  3. Heated bathroom floors?
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MrFrugal1 wrote: I wouldn't put any chargers in the garage right now, unless you already have an EV. From my casual observance, the tech on those is changing all the time, and why spend money on something that may be obsolete in 10 years. Installing wiring and a sub panel, absolutely.

Same goes for all those USB port receptacles. They are convenient ATM, but in a few years you'll be fumbling around trying to find the adapter.
When I first lusted about a Tesla, fast charge at home was 25-30 amp. Now they go as high as 48 amp. I’d hate to put a charger so I have to back in and then have a my wife tell me she wont ever back the car in so I have to do it when I want it done (the second part is from experience). Best thing is a sub panel as once its in there, its really easy to go from there to pretty much anywhere in the garage.
[OP]
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Nov 3, 2003
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Knowhere
Sorry been very busy for the past few weeks! I really appreciate all the replies on this thread.

I've asked to include a sub-panel in the garage instead of the 2 EV chargers. I am looking to buy Tesla's.

Also, I was quoted $2100 for the transfer switch to generator. Cost to supply install and inspect a 200 amp service rated automatic transfer switch. Is that a decent price?
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