Your door is too narrow. I wouldn't recommend putting one in. Your lock is almost touching the cut line for the glass insert.
22 in. x 36 in is pretty standard (You need about 1/2" all around so 23 x 37 is the cut out size). It should work for you if you really wanted to but you might have to replace that fancy lock set.
PCShutters wrote: ↑
Your door is too narrow. I wouldn't recommend putting one in. Your lock is almost touching the cut line for the glass insert.
22 in. x 36 in is pretty standard (You need about 1/2" all around so 23 x 37 is the cut out size). It should work for you if you really wanted to but you might have to replace that fancy lock set.
Waaaaaahhhhh not the answer I wanted to hear but thank you very much for the reply.
But I really really really want to install a window insert. Can I not just cut the weatherstripping to fit the deadbolt?
Also on my rear door with an insert already installed, the cutout is also 23" but the insert is almost 24" with the weatherstripping. Is the size of that insert actually 22"?
Inserts are 20 or 22 inch wide in what you are looking for. Usually 20” is used on 32” doors and 22” on 34”+ doors.
Go buy a clear insert from Depot or Lowes and lay out the trim piece on your door to see if it will fit ad if doesnt then return it. I am sure you can make it work, but it might look like a dogs breakfast.
I've done this on a few doors, and think your key issue is that deadbolt.
It's not the weatherstripping on the new window - it's the trim that has to overlap the door to hold the window in place. That deadbolt is too close to the area that would be removed.
Take a tape measure to Home Depot and check the actual dimensions of the inserts. The website description could be the outer measurements, the size of the cutout you need or the size of the glass. It all varies by manufacturer.
And don't cheat yourself with one only at the top of the door. Do a full height one - way more light, looks clean and if you're frosting it anyhow, privacy isn't an issue. FWIW my entry door is about 2/3 glass and it's clear - I have windows close to it anyhow so if people want to look into my house, they will.
ca_gascon wrote: ↑
Waaaaaahhhhh not the answer I wanted to hear but thank you very much for the reply.
But I really really really want to install a window insert. Can I not just cut the weatherstripping to fit the deadbolt?
Also on my rear door with an insert already installed, the cutout is also 23" but the insert is almost 24" with the weatherstripping. Is the size of that insert actually 22"?
If you really want a door insert and still want it to look nice/professional, get a flat door without the faux raised panel and get a 20”x66” glass insert. The smaller 20” glass insert would not fit your current door because of those faux raise panels.
Jerico wrote: ↑Inserts are 20 or 22 inch wide in what you are looking for. Usually 20” is used on 32” doors and 22” on 34”+ doors.
Go buy a clear insert from Depot or Lowes and lay out the trim piece on your door to see if it will fit ad if doesnt then return it. I am sure you can make it work, but it might look like a dogs breakfast.
It is a 32 door. But you're right, it's going to look like dog's breakfast if I cut the trim. Problem is the hole for the lock was cut too close to the cut lines compared to the back doors.
torontotim wrote: ↑I've done this on a few doors, and think your key issue is that deadbolt.
It's not the weatherstripping on the new window - it's the trim that has to overlap the door to hold the window in place. That deadbolt is too close to the area that would be removed.
Take a tape measure to Home Depot and check the actual dimensions of the inserts. The website description could be the outer measurements, the size of the cutout you need or the size of the glass. It all varies by manufacturer.
And don't cheat yourself with one only at the top of the door. Do a full height one - way more light, looks clean and if you're frosting it anyhow, privacy isn't an issue. FWIW my entry door is about 2/3 glass and it's clear - I have windows close to it anyhow so if people want to look into my house, they will.
Lock is definitely the main issue but I have the same smart schlage locks on all 3 exterior doors. I could do that too but ideally I would want to make it look as close to my rear door. The side door just goes to the staircase anyway to the basement or mainfloor so I don't really need a lot of light
PCShutters wrote: ↑
If you really want a door insert and still want it to look nice/professional, get a flat door without the faux raised panel and get a 20”x66” glass insert. The smaller 20” glass insert would not fit your current door because of those faux raise panels.
I was thinking about that too just replace the door but that's an expensive fix. Do doors always come prehung or can I just buy a door and use the existing jamb and hinges?
ca_gascon wrote: ↑
I was thinking about that too just replace the door but that's an expensive fix. Do doors always come prehung or can I just buy a door and use the existing jamb and hinges?
You can just buy the door separately. If you are just looking for a standard metal door, you can buy it for as little as $100 for a plain slab door. Just make sure you drill the hole for the lock backset at 2-3/8” instead of 2-3/4”
Ah - having the rear door as a reference helps a lot. The doors are the same width? It shouldn't matter as the stiles should be the same width unless the two doors are dramatically different widths which I doubt.
I assume based on the doors that they came pre-drilled. If they were done at the factory and the pre-drilled holes are in different positions, even slightly, I'm surprised.
I'd honestly be going back to the door supplier and replacing the door.
PCShutters wrote: ↑
If you really want a door insert and still want it to look nice/professional, get a flat door without the faux raised panel and get a 20”x66” glass insert. The smaller 20” glass insert would not fit your current door because of those faux raise panels.
The factories actually use this type of door when cutting out for full or half lites. They don’t use flush slabs. So it WOULD work except that the deadbolt apparatus is too big.
PCShutters wrote: ↑You can just buy the door separately. If you are just looking for a standard metal door, you can buy it for as little as $100 for a plain slab door. Just make sure you drill the hole for the lock backset at 2-3/8” instead of 2-3/4”
Now we're talking because my budget for this project is less than $200. Haha The door in question was definitely cut at 2-3/4" vs the 2-3/8" for the back door. Also, my house is a new build and it's still within warranty.
torontotim wrote: ↑Ah - having the rear door as a reference helps a lot. The doors are the same width? It shouldn't matter as the stiles should be the same width unless the two doors are dramatically different widths which I doubt.
I assume based on the doors that they came pre-drilled. If they were done at the factory and the pre-drilled holes are in different positions, even slightly, I'm surprised.
I'd honestly be going back to the door supplier and replacing the door.
Door is the same width and the stiles the same as well. It's just the holes for the side door was drilled at 2-3/4" not sure if there's a standard for a 32 door.
Jerico wrote: ↑The factories actually use this type of door when cutting out for full or half lites. They don’t use flush slabs. So it WOULD work except that the deadbolt apparatus is too big.
3/8" too wide! Haha. The trim for the original locks that came with the door are 2 6/8" vs 3".
ca_gascon wrote: ↑
Door is the same width and the stiles the same as well. It's just the holes for the side door was drilled at 2-3/4" not sure if there's a standard for a 32 door.
I would have thought both doors would be from the same supplier and therefore identical. They don't look like custom doors that were drilled on-site manually, and even then, it would have been done with a jig and they'd be the same.
Buy a new door with a glass insert already in it that fits your deadbolt. Or ditch the deadbolt - something has to give.
If you are sure that a 2-3/8" backset would solve your problem, then change the backset to 2-3/8".
If you drilled a 2x4 with a hole saw of the proper size, you would create a plug for the existing hole.
Since the stile should be solid wood, you can easily glue the plug in place, and then re-drill at the new backset spacing. Sand and paint to match the existing door color.
The repair should be almost invisible, assuming your door doesn't have a faux wood grain. Even if it does have a faux grain, only a small 3/8" x 1/2" arc would be visible at one side of the deadbolt, and that would be reduced even more by the window trim.
Rick007 wrote: ↑
If you are sure that a 2-3/8" backset would solve your problem, then change the backset to 2-3/8".
If you drilled a 2x4 with a hole saw of the proper size, you would create a plug for the existing hole.
Since the stile should be solid wood, you can easily glue the plug in place, and then re-drill at the new backset spacing. Sand and paint to match the existing door color.
The repair should be almost invisible, assuming your door doesn't have a faux wood grain. Even if it does have a faux grain, only a small 3/8" x 1/2" arc would be visible at one side of the deadbolt, and that would be reduced even more by the window trim.
torontotim wrote: ↑
Look at the photos - these are steel entry doors.
Doesn't a steel door still have solid wood stiles that would allow a wooden plug to be glued in place?
I assume that it also has a smooth finish so that there is no need to match a faux grain pattern.
A little body filler commonly used to patch holes in auto bodies could be used to make a better transition between the wood plug and the metal door skin.
torontotim wrote: ↑I would have thought both doors would be from the same supplier and therefore identical. They don't look like custom doors that were drilled on-site manually, and even then, it would have been done with a jig and they'd be the same.
Buy a new door with a glass insert already in it that fits your deadbolt. Or ditch the deadbolt - something has to give.
The deadbolt has to stay and the door has to go. Haha. If I could find a door with an insert at a decent price then I'll probably go that route.
Rick007 wrote: ↑
If you are sure that a 2-3/8" backset would solve your problem, then change the backset to 2-3/8".
If you drilled a 2x4 with a hole saw of the proper size, you would create a plug for the existing hole.
Since the stile should be solid wood, you can easily glue the plug in place, and then re-drill at the new backset spacing. Sand and paint to match the existing door color.
The repair should be almost invisible, assuming your door doesn't have a faux wood grain. Even if it does have a faux grain, only a small 3/8" x 1/2" arc would be visible at one side of the deadbolt, and that would be reduced even more by the window trim.
These doors are metal but the stiles have a wooden core.
Hmmm interesting fix for this. Trim of the window insert will surely hide the fix.
Oh but you know what, that means I have to do that too for the door handle and drill again for the bottom mounting bolt!
GSD wrote: ↑
Anyone know where to get the replacement moulding in black for glass door inserts?
Any window/door place and Depot or Lowes can order it for you, but beware its not cheap. As part at one time, 1 piece of painted frame was more than clear glass with a painted frame in/out.
