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Plumbing experts - three way valve similar to saddle valve and cutting away wood

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  • Jan 11th, 2018 3:08 pm
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 31, 2007
4586 posts
1067 upvotes
Richmond Hill

Plumbing experts - three way valve similar to saddle valve and cutting away wood

Hi plumbing experts,

I'm looking to retrofit a new fridge water line, and am running into several issues.

Issue #1:

I want to use a valve where turning the handle only controls the T portion, like a saddle valve. But I don't want to use a saddle valve because of leakage, so want to use a proper valve.

I found this in HD, but it's PEX-PEX-COMP, whereas I would prefer all sharkbite.
https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/homede ... 00&hei=375

I'm also putting in a ice maker outlet behind the fridge, however, since the fridge will have cabinets on both sides, it won't be easily accessible should I need to shut off the water quickly - which is why I want a valve in the basement ceiling.

Thoughts on if such a part (1/2" SB - 1/2" SB - 3/8" SB valve) exists and where to get it ?

If the part doesn't exist, will I need to create a new "branch" to put a regular valve on it? I'd hate to do this because on the other side of the pipe is a rectangular hvac duct (parallel to the pipes, not the round pipe you see in the image), so there's absolutely no room.

Issue 2:

I've attached 2 images of the existing pipes. The yellow outlines indicates where I want to put the valve, as well as it's distance to the fridge line (the drilled hole).

The current clearance leaves much to be desired. The wood that's surrounding the pipes are just framing for drywall, so I'm not concerned with cutting away a 6-10" gap. Preferably I can cut away the wood that's beside the pipe so that i can get my pipe cutter to cut the pipes. What is the best way to cut the wood without damaging the pipes? Oscillating saw? Small manual saw?

Once I remove the wood and get a bit more clearance, it's still pretty tight to everything else. Which is why I wanted to get sharkbite, instead of soldering. I know the debate with sharkbite, and most likely when I refinish the basement in the future, the accessible plumbing in the entire basement will be redone, so not longer for comments on not getting sharkbite. Time is also of the essence as I'd like to complete the fridge line within 2 days before my appliances are delivered, so the quicker I can do this the better.

Thoughts?

TIA.
Images
  • 26829299_10160050059680195_867111048_o.jpg
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Last edited by enwhyRFD on Jan 10th, 2018 11:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
11 replies
Deal Fanatic
Jan 25, 2007
9987 posts
5258 upvotes
Paris
Why half for the fridge? Aren’t they usually 3/8 or 1/4?
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 31, 2007
4586 posts
1067 upvotes
Richmond Hill
Jerico wrote: Why half for the fridge? Aren’t they usually 3/8 or 1/4?
The sharkbite icemaker outlet I got is 1/2" supply, with 1/4" compression at the connection to the fridge.
Deal Fanatic
Jan 25, 2007
9987 posts
5258 upvotes
Paris
Here is my basement setup... I soldered the valve that goes from 1/2” to 1/4” compression onto a short pipe I’m the comfort of my garage then cut the main line and stuck in a shark bite tee for the humidifier. There is a second compression tee on there I added later to go to a beer fridge that also has an nice maker I keep downstairs. You wouldn’t need that bit. Go to 1/4” right off the line like I did and it’s easier to elbow up through that hole to the fridge.
Images
  • 16E5A5E3-83BA-4B5E-9EC9-D55357B7969E.jpeg
Deal Fanatic
Jan 25, 2007
9987 posts
5258 upvotes
Paris
Also that’s strapping near the pipe I think... just cut it with a manual saw and pull the wood down in that whole section. Or pull the whole piece down, it’s just nailed into the joists.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 31, 2007
4586 posts
1067 upvotes
Richmond Hill
Jerico wrote: Here is my basement setup... I soldered the valve that goes from 1/2” to 1/4” compression onto a short pipe I’m the comfort of my garage then cut the main line and stuck in a shark bite tee for the humidifier. There is a second compression tee on there I added later to go to a beer fridge that also has an nice maker I keep downstairs. You wouldn’t need that bit. Go to 1/4” right off the line like I did and it’s easier to elbow up through that hole to the fridge.


@Jerico, really appreciate the effort to show me your setup. Your set up was another option I had in mind. But the only problem is that there's no room for the valve to a 2" pipe such that the valve handle is facing towards the floor (ie the 2" short pipe would be parallel to the floor). I'd have to put it at an angle, which makes accessing the valve really tricky. Maybe I'll try using the sharkbite slip tee and then try to mimic your setup.


Jerico wrote:
Also that’s strapping near the pipe I think... just cut it with a manual saw and pull the wood down in that whole section. Or pull the whole piece down, it’s just nailed into the joists.


The entire piece is the half the length of the basement, which is approx 20ft, doable-ish I guess. But I've learned that every time I rip out drywall, I get thrown a curve ball, so if I can help it I'll just tear out what I need. :D



Speaking of nailing to the joists, I find it silly that they put the pipes underneath the joists instead of through them. They had to build that 2" high frame just to cover it up.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 31, 2007
4586 posts
1067 upvotes
Richmond Hill
Jerico wrote: Here is my basement setup... I soldered the valve that goes from 1/2” to 1/4” compression onto a short pipe I’m the comfort of my garage then cut the main line and stuck in a shark bite tee for the humidifier. There is a second compression tee on there I added later to go to a beer fridge that also has an nice maker I keep downstairs. You wouldn’t need that bit. Go to 1/4” right off the line like I did and it’s easier to elbow up through that hole to the fridge.
So what I'm thinking is where you have the copper between the T and valve, use straight up PEX. Then use this valve which is PEX-PEX.
Image

From the valve it'll still be 1/2" and it goes up to the icemaker box which is 1/2" supply.
Deal Addict
Dec 17, 2007
2365 posts
1337 upvotes
Alliston, ON
Are you sure your fridge takes a 1/2" water line? A majority of the fridges only take a 1/4 water line, maybe 3/8 at most. I'd double check that in the fridge manual before you buy the needed parts
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 31, 2007
4586 posts
1067 upvotes
Richmond Hill
schade wrote: Are you sure your fridge takes a 1/2" water line? A majority of the fridges only take a 1/4 water line, maybe 3/8 at most. I'd double check that in the fridge manual before you buy the needed parts
The fridge takes 1/4". I have the sharkbite icemaker outlet box behind the fridge with a shutoff valve that's 1/4" COMP with 1/2" supply. So basically I'm trying to connect the icemaker 1/2" supply to something that's like @Jerico's setup.

Image
Deal Fanatic
Jan 25, 2007
9987 posts
5258 upvotes
Paris
There is no law you need to cut it there. Cut it one bay back , tee it, elbow it, and run the pipe parallel to the existing plumbing and put the valve there then elbow up into your hole.

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