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Quick help on bath fan timer wiring

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  • Apr 10th, 2020 8:59 pm
[OP]
Sr. Member
Apr 5, 2009
931 posts
230 upvotes

Quick help on bath fan timer wiring

Gfci plug on left, fan switch middle, light on right. I figure I wire existing switch bottom 2 wires to new switch black and then new switch red to existing switch top single black? And then ground to box. Is this correct?
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8 replies
Penalty Box
Jun 24, 2015
4704 posts
1386 upvotes
0 downvotes
you put the hot black wire to the hot terminal wire, the output black wire to the red terminal wire, the ground wire (bare) to the ground temrinal, and thats it, its not a matter of connecting them but connecting them CORRECTLY you have an instructions there, just follow it.
Hi
[OP]
Sr. Member
Apr 5, 2009
931 posts
230 upvotes
GoodFellaz wrote: you put the hot black wire to the hot terminal wire, the output black wire to the red terminal wire, the ground wire (bare) to the ground temrinal, and thats it, its not a matter of connecting them but connecting them CORRECTLY you have an instructions there, just follow it.
Duh. But there's nothing to indicate hot black vs output black in the existing setup.
Newbie
Mar 11, 2008
51 posts
43 upvotes
BC
We can't really tell you 100% for sure which is the line vs load based on your description and your picture. If you want to know for sure, just disconnect the two black wires from the switch, turn the breaker on, and see which one has power. That one is your line and will get connected to the black timer wire and the other connects to the red.

Or if you don't have a multimeter/voltage detector, you can make an educated guess. If either black wire is pigtailed to other black wires, that one is likely the power source. And if you wire the two hots incorrectly, it's not a huge deal. It just won't work properly and you can then reverse them.

And yeah, the ground should connect to other ground wires or a terminal in the box.
Sr. Member
Jan 22, 2012
575 posts
206 upvotes
Bradford
You know times are tough when you’ve had to resort to Coors lol
Deal Expert
Feb 24, 2007
15061 posts
2645 upvotes
stansoltz wrote: Duh. But there's nothing to indicate hot black vs output black in the existing setup.
If you plan to work on any basic home electrical project, I would invest in a basic VOM, otherwise, call an electrician. My suggestion is to call an electrician when available.
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
5171 posts
2589 upvotes
stansoltz wrote: Duh. But there's nothing to indicate hot black vs output black in the existing setup.
If it’s a correctly installed 2-way switch then the (hot) load is usually the bottom terminal
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
[OP]
Sr. Member
Apr 5, 2009
931 posts
230 upvotes
It was what I suspected, hot on bottom. Everything is working now. And I used to work for coors hence the brand loyalty.
Penalty Box
Jun 24, 2015
4704 posts
1386 upvotes
0 downvotes
stansoltz wrote: Duh. But there's nothing to indicate hot black vs output black in the existing setup.
use a voltage tester silly.
Hi

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