raising air conditioning unit off the ground in Brampton .

If there is enough slack in the Freon lines, (copper lines) as well as the electrical conduit/cable, than yes it's a diyer job. As long as there is still slack in the lines/cable once raised. If for what ever reason either/or lines/cable have to be disconnected/extended (most likely scenario), than if you're asking the question, I would say NO, it's not a diy job! Freon is under pressure and somewhat dangerous to work with only if you're not experienced with it and electrical at a higher voltage, more importantly amperage, well............enough said.

usernameinvaild wrote: ↑ called a couple HVAC people and the prices ranged to lift the air conditioner unit 18 inches off ground on a pair of steel brackets seemed high 500-700$ .

has anyone done this is it possible to diy ?

You will have to pump the freon down to the compressor, disconnect high voltage. remove the unit and weld line, vacuum, recharge test. I would not recommend doing this yourself.

$500 seems very reasonable to me.

Hijacking this thread a bit...I'll be replacing my A/C in probably 2-4 years (monitoring it, it's reaching end of life...I'd replace sooner if some kind of green energy incentive came into play), I assume the cost of this is significantly lower of the HVAC company is replacing the A/C anyways since most of the steps mentioned (below) are being done anyways?

fourseasoncomfort wrote: ↑ You will have to pump the freon down to the compressor, disconnect high voltage. remove the unit and weld line, vacuum, recharge test. I would not recommend doing this yourself.

That is the correct assumption. Moving AC actually takes longer sometimes than installing a new one as the technician has to reclaim the gas first which is not required in new AC.
Also since freon ( R22) has skyrocketed since its complete ban in 2020, it makes job even more expensive.
When you buy a new AC, make sure you steer clear of cheap copper coils. Until, I started mentioning many previous buyers even didn't know about it ( IMO buyer should make a informed decision and it should not be left at the installer mercy )

threeSwansinCostco wrote: ↑ Hijacking this thread a bit...I'll be replacing my A/C in probably 2-4 years (monitoring it, it's reaching end of life...I'd replace sooner if some kind of green energy incentive came into play), I assume the cost of this is significantly lower of the HVAC company is replacing the A/C anyways since most of the steps mentioned (below) are being done anyways?

newlyborn wrote: ↑ That is the correct assumption. Moving AC actually takes longer sometimes than installing a new one as the technician has to reclaim the gas first which is not required in new AC.
Also since freon ( R22) has skyrocketed since its complete ban in 2020, it makes job even more expensive.
When you buy a new AC, make sure you steer clear of cheap copper coils. Until, I started mentioning many previous buyers even didn't know about it ( IMO buyer should make a informed decision and it should not be left at the installer mercy )

Thanks! This is all super helpful advice. Thank you very much! Any specific suggestions for good units, for 2500 - 3000 square feet? (I don't actually know the exact square footage, mostly because some recent renos....so a range is all I can offer!)

Carrier, Lennox, American Standard and alike all are reputable brands. However, it has been stressed enough by different posters that right installation is the key.
Depending upon several other factors ( like windows and its condition ), 2.5 ton will be more or less a great unit. Please find out the size of your home excluding the basement for correctly sizing the AC. Also make sure what ever tonnage you chose, your furnace should be able to support it as its the blower of furnace that works as engine . Without proper air flow, your AC will never work properly. I will also suggest you to steer clear of 13 SEER AC's no matter what anyone claims. They are the cheapest for a reason.

threeSwansinCostco wrote: ↑ Thanks! This is all super helpful advice. Thank you very much! Any specific suggestions for good units, for 2500 - 3000 square feet? (I don't actually know the exact square footage, mostly because some recent renos....so a range is all I can offer!)

Why not give Craig a call?

group-buy-gta-ottawa-2021-central-ac-gr ... t-2449494/

newlyborn wrote: ↑ Carrier, Lennox, American Standard and alike all are reputable brands. However, it has been stressed enough by different posters that right installation is the key.
Depending upon several other factors ( like windows and its condition ), 2.5 ton will be more or less a great unit. Please find out the size of your home excluding the basement for correctly sizing the AC. Also make sure what ever tonnage you chose, your furnace should be able to support it as its the blower of furnace that works as engine . Without proper air flow, your AC will never work properly. I will also suggest you to steer clear of 13 SEER AC's no matter what anyone claims. They are the cheapest for a reason.

Amazing. Thank you so much for this!!

BDSL wrote: ↑ Why not give Craig a call?

group-buy-gta-ottawa-2021-central-ac-gr ... t-2449494/

Didn't know this existed. I'll check it out! Thanks!

Another Air Conditioner group buy option here too from @newlyborn that you have been talking to above - 2021-rfd-approved-air-condition-group-b ... #p34189019
Highly recommended honest company to deal with.

It may best to wait until your AC needs to be replaced, at that point you can have it mounted on brackets which will be included in the cost of the AC.

doing stamped concrete in that area and it's either we remove and reinstall after the concrete work is done . or raise it if we have enough slack that is mentioned

The practical will be to have the AC disconnected now and reinstall once your concrete work is done.

usernameinvaild wrote: ↑ doing stamped concrete in that area and it's either we remove and reinstall after the concrete work is done . or raise it if we have enough slack that is mentioned

newlyborn wrote: ↑ Carrier, Lennox, American Standard and alike all are reputable brands. However, it has been stressed enough by different posters that right installation is the key.
Depending upon several other factors ( like windows and its condition ), 2.5 ton will be more or less a great unit. Please find out the size of your home excluding the basement for correctly sizing the AC. Also make sure what ever tonnage you chose, your furnace should be able to support it as its the blower of furnace that works as engine . Without proper air flow, your AC will never work properly. I will also suggest you to steer clear of 13 SEER AC's no matter what anyone claims. They are the cheapest for a reason.

I thought Craig installs 13seer units as part of the group buy thread... coupled with our 4month cooling season why spend on higher SEER..

TLSRULZ wrote: ↑ I thought Craig installs 13seer units as part of the group buy thread... coupled with our 4month cooling season why spend on higher SEER..

To use less electricity which will save the planet.

to kinda go with this, why are some installed on brackets on the wall and others put on the ground ( usually on a sidewalk slab/patio stone ). Ours is on slab and so is our other home.
See most new homes on brackets on wall.

Just curious..... Thanks

luckystrike1 wrote: ↑ to kinda go with this, why are some installed on brackets on the wall and others put on the ground ( usually on a sidewalk slab/patio stone ). Ours is on slab and so is our other home.
See most new homes on brackets on wall.

Just curious..... Thanks

New construction AC units are installed on wall brackets because the ground around the home has recently been back filled and is unstable. When the frost comes out of the ground in the spring the AC and Pad will shift. In homes that are 3 years or newer and grading permits we install a antivibration pad as the ground is settled and the chance of shifting is minimal. When we replace a AC that is mounted on brackets we usually recommend mounting it on a antivibration pad that is off the home.

Thanks very much for the clear and concise answer. That perfectly answers my question. Thanks again

Contrary to what one poster here suggested, SEER rating has no bearing on the quality and noise level of the unit until you get super high end 17++ for which there are no low budget options.

Both low budget and mainstream line units are available in the 13-16 seer range.
The main differences are in cabinet quality, noise level, and protection from loss of charge or fan motor failure. (the better ones shut themselves off to prevent compressor damage)