Range Hood - Questions

Firstly, you are getting a brand new house built and you are already thinking of gutting the kitchen? Makes no sense as during the build you can get what you want.
The builder needs to know what kind of range hood you want as that will determine where and how the exhaust ducting will run. Also, something to keep in mind, there are different cabinet and range hood heights for electric and gas stoves. If electric, the cabinets can be lower but you will not be able to change to gas,
Also do not know why you are wanting an 8" exhaust duct, it does not help evacuating the air by making a bigger duct. The range hood has specifications for ducting and that is to ensure proper exhaust flow and pressure. Mess with it and you effect the efficiency.
As for circuit breaker panel, kitchens have specific code requirements.

Are you sure or maybe a typo: I've always thought that with an electric stove the range hood can be higher than it would be for gas.. Hence the cabinet above an electric stove can be higher

Pete_Coach wrote: ↑ Firstly, you are getting a brand new house built and you are already thinking of gutting the kitchen? Makes no sense as during the build you can get what you want.
The builder needs to know what kind of range hood you want as that will determine where and how the exhaust ducting will run. Also, something to keep in mind, there are different cabinet and range hood heights for electric and gas stoves. If electric, the cabinets can be lower but you will not be able to change to gas,
Also do not know why you are wanting an 8" exhaust duct, it does not help evacuating the air by making a bigger duct. The range hood has specifications for ducting and that is to ensure proper exhaust flow and pressure. Mess with it and you effect the efficiency.
As for circuit breaker panel, kitchens have specific code requirements.

Beneful1 wrote: ↑ Are you sure or maybe a typo: I've always thought that with an electric stove the range hood can be higher than it would be for gas.. Hence the cabinet above an electric stove can be higher

Not sure what you mean. There is a difference in height requirements to flammable substances between gas and electric stove surfaces. Flames form a gas stove need to be farther away.

You have various hood depths (or heights). A "pro" one will be at least 18" deep while an average grade one may be 4-6". The average grade one may just vent out of the back too (rectangular slot about the size of a heat register). Height above cooktop depends on manufacturer specification. You don't want it so high the plume (which spreads out as it rises) isn't captured by the hood. I find 30" is right, while 24" is too low. Going by that, I'd have the bottom of the hole (if 6") at least 52-54" above the cooktop/countertop.

You can always make the hole bigger by drilling. May be difficult if the outside if brick cladding though.

You're right.. I'm having a seniors day and had things reversed in my mind

Pete_Coach wrote: ↑ Not sure what you mean. There is a difference in height requirements to flammable substances between gas and electric stove surfaces. Flames form a gas stove need to be farther away.

Pete_Coach wrote: ↑ Firstly, you are getting a brand new house built and you are already thinking of gutting the kitchen? Makes no sense as during the build you can get what you want.
The builder needs to know what kind of range hood you want as that will determine where and how the exhaust ducting will run. Also, something to keep in mind, there are different cabinet and range hood heights for electric and gas stoves. If electric, the cabinets can be lower but you will not be able to change to gas,
Also do not know why you are wanting an 8" exhaust duct, it does not help evacuating the air by making a bigger duct. The range hood has specifications for ducting and that is to ensure proper exhaust flow and pressure. Mess with it and you effect the efficiency.
As for circuit breaker panel, kitchens have specific code requirements.

unfortunately, it makes a lot sense when it's cheaper to gut the kitchen than to go with the builder upgrades. With regards to the duct size, I'm not planning on upgrading the duct size if the range hood I get doesn't require an 8" duct but many of the range hoods I've been looking at require 8" ducting so the 6" standard duct wouldn't work because like you said, it'll mess with the efficiency. Apologies if I was unclear about this in my original post.

I'm simply trying to figure out if the exhaust hole for the range hood fluctuates in height depending on the type of range hood you buy or if there's just a standard height for the hole. I.e. Is the standard hole generally just higher up with the length of the ducting just running longer or shorter depending on if your range hood is required to be installed higher or lower from the stove?

Regarding the circuit breaker panel, my logic would indicate that there's no code requiring the range hood to be on its own breaker otherwise it wouldn't be an upgrade and the builder would have to do it without charge. Otherwise, i'm assuming they'd be breaking code.

The builder doesn't know what they are talking about. 8" is doable and i would strongly recommend you get 8". I would recommend a built-in range if you're going for that up-scale look. Make sure the front of the built-in is accessible. This is important when you're installing the rangehood insert. Also, always go for a range hood that is deep, i have a ventahood pro-liner that is 22.5" deep and it was the best decision ever. It is very quiet and sucks out the fumes really good. Lastly, make sure the bottom of the hood range is no higher than 30" from the top of the stove/cooktop.

Prestonxavier wrote: ↑ The builder doesn't know what they are talking about. 8" is doable and i would strongly recommend you get 8". I would recommend a built-in range if you're going for that up-scale look. Make sure the front of the built-in is accessible. This is important when you're installing the rangehood insert. Also, always go for a range hood that is deep, i have a ventahood pro-liner that is 22.5" deep and it was the best decision ever. It is very quiet and sucks out the fumes really good. Lastly, make sure the bottom of the hood range is no higher than 30" from the top of the stove/cooktop.

my preference would be 8" as well since all the range hoods I've seen and liked are 8" but the builder doesn't even allow me to upgrade it. This is why I'm trying to figure out if there's a standard height for the hole. If i get an 8" opening after, I'm hoping the contractors can just increase the opening from 6" to 8".

You want the vent hole higher than lower. Range hoods vary in height. "Slim" ones are only a few inches high and may vent straight out the back (so the vent can be fairly even with the range hood), while you might have tall monsters that vent out the top and thus require an elbow to exit out the side of the house. IMHO, if you make the vent hole about a foot higher than the tallest range hood you can find, you'll be okay for any situation in the future. The only issue is that the cabinet enclosing the range hood might need to be taller than the rest of your cabinets.

Say: 32" clearance from range hood to gas burners (even if you don't have gas now, might get it later)
+ 11" for the tallest undercabinet range I could quickly find
+ 12" room for (eventually) 8" elbow
= 55" from the burners/countertop

However, if you can make the hole higher, it'll be slightly less noisier because the air won't have to make an immediate turn when it comes out of the range hood (i.e. it'll go straight a bit before the elbow). Also, two 45 degree turns is better than one 90 because the turn is not as abrupt, although it will require more height.

If this is a development and not a custom home, the builder will just drill the hole at a minimum height for their standard cabinets and included (cheap) range hood to minimize their work (e.g. duct work).

jm1 wrote: ↑ You want the vent hole higher than lower. Range hoods vary in height. "Slim" ones are only a few inches high and may vent straight out the back (so the vent can be fairly even with the range hood), while you might have tall monsters that vent out the top and thus require an elbow to exit out the side of the house. IMHO, if you make the vent hole about a foot higher than the tallest range hood you can find, you'll be okay for any situation in the future. The only issue is that the cabinet enclosing the range hood might need to be taller than the rest of your cabinets.

Say: 32" clearance from range hood to gas burners (even if you don't have gas now, might get it later)
+ 11" for the tallest undercabinet range I could quickly find
+ 12" room for (eventually) 8" elbow
= 55" from the burners/countertop

However, if you can make the hole higher, it'll be slightly less noisier because the air won't have to make an immediate turn when it comes out of the range hood (i.e. it'll go straight a bit before the elbow). Also, two 45 degree turns is better than one 90 because the turn is not as abrupt, although it will require more height.

If this is a development and not a custom home, the builder will just drill the hole at a minimum height for their standard cabinets and included (cheap) range hood to minimize their work (e.g. duct work).

Thank you so much. This is exactly what I was looking for. I think the builder knows that the home owners are going to install their own hood ranges. They simply put the builder grade hood ranges to pass code. For this reason, the decor rep requested that I give them some specs of a hood range that I plan on installing after closing. The only problem is that we think we want to install a chimney style hood range and if we tell the builder this, they will leave out the upper cabinets but the sides will also be unfinished. It's over a 1,000 just to finish the sides. Since we are not exactly sure when we will be redoing the kitchen after closing, my plan was to give them specs of an undercabinet hood range that can also accomodate a chimney style hood range down the road (in terms of where the vent hole is).

otaknap wrote: ↑ Thank you so much. This is exactly what I was looking for. I think the builder knows that the home owners are going to install their own hood ranges. They simply put the builder grade hood ranges to pass code. For this reason, the decor rep requested that I give them some specs of a hood range that I plan on installing after closing. The only problem is that we think we want to install a chimney style hood range and if we tell the builder this, they will leave out the upper cabinets but the sides will also be unfinished. It's over a 1,000 just to finish the sides. Since we are not exactly sure when we will be redoing the kitchen after closing, my plan was to give them specs of an undercabinet hood range that can also accomodate a chimney style hood range down the road (in terms of where the vent hole is).

Do you know the max height of the upper cabinets? If they're tall and at least 55" from the countertop, just give them specs such that the hole will be at the top, but still enclosed, by the cabinets. However, if they're normal size, 55" from countertop is probably higher and it'll cause a discussion about upgrading to taller cabinets, etc.

You're probably doing the smart thing. They won't give you much credit (if any) for not having a cabinet above the stove, so might as well have it in for now. Later, it'll be easy and cheap to cover the sides of the adjoining cabinets and you can install the spare cabinet in the basement or garage for additional storage.

jm1 wrote: ↑ Do you know the max height of the upper cabinets? If they're tall and at least 55" from the countertop, just give them specs such that the hole will be at the top, but still enclosed, by the cabinets. However, if they're normal size, 55" from countertop is probably higher and it'll cause a discussion about upgrading to taller cabinets, etc.

You're probably doing the smart thing. They won't give you much credit (if any) for not having a cabinet above the stove, so might as well have it in for now. Later, it'll be easy and cheap to cover the sides of the adjoining cabinets and you can install the spare cabinet in the basement or garage for additional storage.

We priced out gutting the kitchen and got quotes and even renderings to install a brand new kitchen. To upgrade with the builder and get the same product as with those provided by our quotes would run at a minimum 20K to 30K more.

The kitchen comes with extended upper cabinets which i presume are ~42" so I assume that the top of the uppers will be at least 55" from the countertop. We also have 10 foot ceilings but we plan on adding the stackables when we renovate the kitchen. Given that the top of the uppers are 55" from the countertop, is it safe to assume that the vent hole will be drilled at about that height (or slightly lower) which will be fine down the road to add pretty much any type of range hood?

otaknap wrote: ↑Given that the top of the uppers are 55" from the countertop, is it safe to assume that the vent hole will be drilled at about that height (or slightly lower) which will be fine down the road to add pretty much any type of range hood?

Don't assume. Give them the specs.

Otherwise, they'll drill the hole at the lowest point because the person drilling it didn't want to get their taller ladder and just used a step stool You can assume, given a lack of specs, that they'll do it the easiest, fastest, cheapest way.

you're right! i shouldn't assume anything. i've gotten into trouble by doing that in the past.

Here's a picture of one of their basic kitchens with the builder grade range hood. based on the picture, i should just give them specs of a rangehood that is presumably taller such that the cabinet above will be shorter and therefore forcing the hole to be closer to the top of the cabinetry?

jm1 wrote: ↑ Don't assume. Give them the specs.

Otherwise, they'll drill the hole at the lowest point because the person drilling it didn't want to get their taller ladder and just used a step stool You can assume, given a lack of specs, that they'll do it the easiest, fastest, cheapest way.

so I did some calculations. Based on the builder grade picture that i posted. I think the height from the ground to the top of the extended uppers would be ~95" (36" from floor to countertop + 19.5" from countertop to bottom of upper cabinets + 39.5" for the height of the upper cabinets). The cabinet on top of the range hood looks approx. half of the extended uppers so approximately ~20". If they drill the vent hole in the center height of that cabinet, the vent hole would be approx 85" from floor to ceiling.

Based on looking at various range hoods such as this 36" Victory Twister Range Hood, on pg 18, they recommend between 81" to 85.5" for the minimum height of the vent hole in order to maintain a minimum clearance of 26" to 30" from bottom of the range hood to the stove top.

http://www.kitchenhoods.ca/shop/pdf/Twister.pdf

Hopefully this research helps someone else in the forum.

Give the builder the spec for a Chimney range hood. It will guarantee that the hole will be centered to the stove. If a wall stud interferes with the placement the builder will ensure it is adjusted accordingly so the vent remains centered.

If it is an under cabinet range hood the hole can be slightly off centered since it will be in the cabinet.

6" is not bad. Victory range hoods have 6" range hoods that go over 600cfm. In models that offer both 6" and 8" (for higher cfm), they recommend the 6" units with slightly lower cfm if an ultra quieter operation is a must.

bubuski wrote: ↑ Give the builder the spec for a Chimney range hood. It will guarantee that the hole will be centered to the stove. If a wall stud interferes with the placement the builder will ensure it is adjusted accordingly so the vent remains centered.

If it is an under cabinet range hood the hole can be slightly off centered since it will be in the cabinet.

6" is not bad. Victory range hoods have 6" range hoods that go over 600cfm. In models that offer both 6" and 8" (for higher cfm), they recommend the 6" units with slightly lower cfm if an ultra quieter operation is a must.

I was planning on giving the builder the specs for this kitchenaid under the cabinet hood range.

https://www.canadianappliance.ca/produc ... 06DSS.html

The problem is that if I give them the specs for the Victory Chimney Range, they won't include the cabinet above the hood range and if they don't include the cabinet above the hood range, they will leave the sides of the cabinet unfinished. To finish just the sides cost an additional $1000 almost. If you upgrade the hoodrange to a Chimney hood range with the builder, the cost includes finishing the sides but it will be about $1,900 for the upgraded chimney hood range with less CFM. If you upgrade the hoodrange with them, you then also have to probably upgrade the backsplash with them.

Since I'm not exactly sure when I'll do the full gut, I'd like the hoodrange ducting not to be exposed. I'm hoping to just tell them to center the vent hole to accommodate a chimney style hood range down the road.

Any idea if the hood range is normally hardwired or is there a receptacle in behind the hoodrange to plug in? I'm hoping it's just hardwired and that the wiring is centered as well.

Hardwired or plug could vary based on manufacturer or model. Mine is the Victory Elegant, it has a plug and the receptacle is centered behind the chimney. The receptacle can easily be centered when you redo your kitchen so you do don't need to push hard to get it done now.

I hope it’s not too late to chime in. I’m going through a kitchen reno and everything is delayed with covid. I would get as many upgrades through the builder as possible and roll it into the mortgage.

They probably don’t want to drill a larger duct probably because their HVAC drawing is spec’d for a 6” hole. I think negative pressure happens when you’re drawing out air too fast and you don’t have a makeup air system replacing it with fresh air.

They are probably using a 15amp outlet for the hood range. I put my Fridge, DW and microwave on separate circuits.

Can you ask for the following?
- 42” or 48” wide opening for your hood. I would ask for the duct as high as possible. I have 8” ceiling and I can’t use chimney hoods that exhaust from the top that needs a 90 degree elbow connection. I have to use a pro-style canopy that exhausts from the back.
- 42-48” wide aisles around the island. You can have the fridge open or DW open and there’s enough room to pass.- Upgrade all the lower cabinets to drawers.
- If you have that glass corner cabinet, can you change the upper corner cabinet to a piano hinge door? If not, can they change it to a solid door?
- How much would it cost to add crown molding?
- How much would they give you as a credit to downgrade to laminate counter tops, skip the backsplash and install a topmount sink?
- How much would it cost to add more counter outlets