Rebar in sonotube

Mrbishi wrote: ↑ I'm replacing gates at the rear of the garden due to sagging issues.

I'm planning on setting two 8 or 10" sonotubes approximately 12' apart, dug to 48" for Calgary frost line, plus another 6" for gravel.
I have 4 pieces of 1/2" rebar @ 48" inside two circles of 6" circumference, tie wired 12" up/down from each end, with no J or L bend on the bottom.

4 pieces of 1/2" threaded bar, not ready rod. 14" lenghts, set 12" into the concrete to hold the post holders.

Post holders are 1/4" angle, 4x6" bolted to the concrete. They will be painted with tremclad, with either an epoxy or bitumen coating at the bottom where it contacts the cement.

Gates themselves will be 3/4" angle iron frame welded 6'sq with a flat bar brace spanning 2 opposing corners of each gate.

Piers will be 6' 4x6" PT bolted into the post holders, with similar moisture barrier at the bottom asthe post holders .

Aside from it being possibly over built, is there anything I should be doing better with the rebar?

Jerico wrote: ↑ I am not an expert by any means, but the saddles typically used at the top of a sonotube arent great for side to side force (as in the case of a fence, gate, etc) which would act on them like a lever. I think they are just meant for posts that are held together at the top as in the case of a deck.

I would think building a gate on top of this construction would result in sag as there is not enough holding the post from moving at the base. Maybe I’m not visualizing correctly?

Mrbishi wrote: ↑ Thanks for all the input, exactly the feedback I was looking for.

I hadn't thought about tying the posts together with a beam, wood or steel, definitely something I'll need to consider as obviously a proper frame will be stronger than 2 individual uprights.

I figured straps from 1/4" steel angle iron would be strong enough as I don't want to set the post in the concrete due to eventual rotting, but I may consider using galvanized pipe, would 4" gas pipe as the post work instead?

Epoxied on the bottom and cap welded at both ends for moisture.

The reasons for the rebar are that I have it and if I wanted to install a sliding gate or decking by the garage in the future there would be strong footings for it already.

Mrbishi wrote: ↑ I'm from Europe, where buildings last hundreds of years, slate rooves, masonry walls, much higher quality windows and doors, water boilers, radiators etc.

Not to shit all over the North American system as I understand the different environmental requirements and availability of raw materials etc, but if you told someone back home that the building envelope on a new house was only warrantied for 5 years or they'd need to replace their roof or exterior finish every 15 years or so, they just wouldn't buy it.

So I want anything I build to last as long as possible, and be as easy as possible to replace or repair when it wears out.
I have gates at home on the farm that are steel and concrete that are 50+ years old, some sagging alright due to animal or tractor impacts but still lining up within an inch or so of the bolt hole to close them.

I definitely look into the gas pipe as well, I had thought about wrapping it in soprema or blueskin, but torch on would probably be better alright.

Any issues using weld on hinges with pipe like that?