Recommended Plumbing for clogged sink

Good and cheap does not go hand in hand

Here's a thought for the DIY Pros (if it's not severe); would a shop vac (using the air outlet side) and sticking it down the drain using the force of air work?

vkizzle wrote: ↑Here's a thought for the DIY Pros (if it's not severe); would a shop vac (using the air outlet side) and sticking it down the drain using the force of air work?

I'm sure it would depend in where and what the clog is. If its past the vent connection I doubt it would accomplish anything

I know you said you've tried Drano, but have you tried Drano CRYSTALS? They are super beast. The can is sold at places like Walmart & Lowe's etc. for less than $8.

1. If the clog is real instead of a slow drain, empty out as much of the standing water in the sink as possible to minimize dilution.
2. Have one cup of cold water ready at your side.
3. Using a dry spoon, add a heaping tablespoon or two of the Drano Crystals into the now nearly dry drain area (Back away - I believe an exothermic reaction happens.)
4. Quickly add one cup of cold or lukewarm water, pouring it at a slow-medium pace.
5. Wait 15 minutes.
6. Repeat steps 2 - 5.
7. Flush the sink with hot water and hope that it works.

Hasn't failed me yet for organic-based clogs.

Good luck!

Most drains have a relief valve at the bottom of the P-Trap. see if you can unscrew the valve. a lot of crap will flow down so be sure to use a bucket. if it's an older drain, you may be out of luck and have to replace it.

I hope it's a PVC pipe cause they will be easier to change. If it's a metal one, it'll take more time.


PVC = plastic, saw it off, buy PVC glue and new P-Trap + any extra PVC pipes to fit your contraption

Good luck!

n3o321 wrote: ↑Most drains have a relief valve at the bottom of the P-Trap. see if you can unscrew the valve. a lot of crap will flow down so be sure to use a bucket. if it's an older drain, you may be out of luck and have to replace it.

I hope it's a PVC pipe cause they will be easier to change. If it's a metal one, it'll take more time.


PVC = plastic, saw it off, buy PVC glue and new P-Trap + any extra PVC pipes to fit your contraption

Good luck!

It would be ABS if its plastic. Not pvc.
The "relief valve" your referring to is called a clean out, and is only required if the trap is a non union. (A mandarory cleaniut on a kitchen drain was inky imolemented to code recently).Otherwise if a union trap was used chances are there is no clean out. Removing the union accomplishes the same thing but also allows your to remove the drain to access the fixture drain.
If the clog is downstream of the p-trap then your suggestion is redundant.

My recommendation would be to either rent a snake and auger the line, or hire a plumber to rectify your issue.
OPs location would help in order to recommend anyone

Location is in Scarborough

Forget all of these chemicals. The best way is a snake. Go to Canadian Tire, buy a $20 snake and then snake it out. Cheapest and most effective method out there.

Can you send me the info? Thanks!

fboybcb wrote: ↑Can you send me the info? Thanks!

Here you go.
http://www.homedepot.ca/know-how/projec ... drain-line

Home depot rents snakes as well. Less than 10$ for the day. Its going to be much higher quality than the cheap ones you buy.

Before that i would remove the p trap. Problem might be there. If its not.. at least you can feed the snake in the pipe from that point instead of from the top of the sink. That will avoid a major 180 degree bend in the snake and help you get a better bite on the obstruction.

as people have mentioned remove the p trap. google to see the part we are talking about.
now you can dignose if the problem is before or after the p trap. put a bucket under the pipe and run the water with the p trap removed. if it drains fine then the obstruction is after the trap. or vice versa.
striaghten out one of those wire clothes hanger and use it as a snake to clear ovstruction.

n3o321 wrote: ↑I hope it's a PVC pipe cause they will be easier to change. If it's a metal one, it'll take more time.

From the picture it looks like the drain lines are copper and brass.

But yeah, remove the P-trap first and see if there's a clog there.

i use one of these guys. 5 bucks and works wonders on hair in the bathroom sink!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Z ... /100665735

just caution. what comes out may make you sick from teh look and or smell. lol

Based on the pic you most likely live in a condo, and the clog shouldn't be more than 5 feet downstream of the trap, and if it is then it's in the main stack which is the buildings responsibility. Assuming it's not in the trap. Some buildings will cover any clogs behind the wall. I wouldn't recommend doing this yourself as you would be held liable if anything goes sour.

If you do decide to throw a wrench on it go easy....you want the fitting to turn not crush it. Its easy enough to DIY this job-slack off both unions on the trap, clean crap out of that and then snake the drain.

[quote="hitman_24" post_id="22404481" time="1430924278" user_id="132050"]Based on the pic you most likely live in a condo, and the clog shouldn't be more than 5 feet downstream of the trap, and if it is then it's in the main stack which is the buildings responsibility. Assuming it's not in the trap. Some buildings will cover any clogs behind the wall. I wouldn't recommend doing this yourself as you would be held liable if anything goes sour.[/QUOTE*]


Yes I live in a condo. But before I continue on my story, I want to mention this few days has been hell and I really need some advice. What happened was couple of days ago as you all know from my previous post that my sink has been clogged. Thinking to myself that I would only need to call a plumber to fix this matter, dang was I wrong. While in my room at the time, I realized I was hearing some sort of water being turned on. So I got up and took a look at the kitchen and saw water in the drain pipe from my kitchen sink started to gush out water (looked like sewage) and it continued to back flow for an hour until it finally stopped which had already damaged my wooden floor. After cleaning it out for a couple of hours, the drain pipe started to gush out again!
This was already in the late evening so I couldn't reach my P.Manager so I waited until the next day. He basically told me he would hire their own contractor ( I wasn't able to because he says he doesn't trust except their own) and would check to see if the clog is due to my side (within the unit) then I will be responsible and anything past the walls should be their problem. Finally got the contractor to come, turns out he used 25 ft of power snake to be able to get it through and when he took out the snake there was alot of black gunk. I thought to myself it shouldn't be my fault as I've been told the main pipe shouldn't be that far away but I was wrong. He told me it was my fault even though I had recorded him saying that his power snake had to reach the main to be able to get the clog out. So he tells the P.Manager and then tells me that my next door tenant also was clogged and that I should pay half the amount because they were saying that the 2 pipes are connected.

Now my main concern is my damaged floor. Is it my fault since my kitchen sink is clogged ( I stopped using it and left it alone) that it started to overflow which came from a drain pipe and that had happened twice. I also want to mention on that day I found out that they actually hired a plumbing company to do some work. Not sure what kind of work but it is for the condos maintenance if that even matters.

In writing tell the strata that water from upstairs units caused damage in your condo because the main plumbing stack was blocked. If the pipe from your unit to the main stack was blocked water could not pass either way, so you are not at fault.
Include the plumber used 25' of snake to hit the blockage, at that point water in your units pipe began to drain into the main stack again.

Zamboni wrote: ↑In writing tell the strata that water from upstairs units caused damage in your condo because the main plumbing stack was blocked. If the pipe from your unit to the main stack was blocked water could not pass either way, so you are not at fault.
Include the plumber used 25' of snake to hit the blockage, at that point water in your units pipe began to drain into the main stack again.

Who is strata?