Replace it with something more visually pleasing?
Hi wondering if I can replace the 2x4 with something that would look better and get the job done? Any suggestions?
https://imgur.com/a/VP33AnV
https://imgur.com/a/VP33AnV
Replace it with something more visually pleasing?
- Last Updated:
- Jul 8th, 2021 11:22 pm
Tags:
- SCORE
- snipe2014 [OP]
- Deal Addict
- Apr 18, 2012
- 1598 posts
- 256 upvotes
19 replies
- jm1
- Deal Addict
- Jan 5, 2003
- 4940 posts
- 4802 upvotes
- Toronto
I would just paint them black. It'll match the trim around the cabinets.
- arisk
- Deal Addict
- Nov 12, 2006
- 2992 posts
- 2181 upvotes
- London
Perhaps some thin material all along the bottom, like a kitchen cabinet toe kick.
Paint it black.
Screw/nail/staple it to the existing 2x4s and hide it all.
Paint it black.
Screw/nail/staple it to the existing 2x4s and hide it all.
- BHA1
- Sr. Member
- Aug 8, 2005
- 692 posts
- 352 upvotes
- Toronto
Are these 2x4 pieces in the front only (to level the cabinets because your floor is sloped)?
Or do you have them under the rear feet too?
If under all front and rear feet just remove them. They put them in to protect the floor but aren’t really needed at all
If at the front only then you need them. Try IKEA toe kick boards because they clip onto metal legs like yours. Designed for ikea kitchens but they’ll probably work. They come in black or almost-black colours.
Or do you have them under the rear feet too?
If under all front and rear feet just remove them. They put them in to protect the floor but aren’t really needed at all
If at the front only then you need them. Try IKEA toe kick boards because they clip onto metal legs like yours. Designed for ikea kitchens but they’ll probably work. They come in black or almost-black colours.
- torontotim
- Deal Addict
- Nov 17, 2012
- 4951 posts
- 4506 upvotes
- Toronto
If there's 1.5" of slope over the 24" depth of those cabinets, that's some oddball concrete pad.
That being said, it actually looks like the adjustable feet at the rear are extended as far as the ones at the front.
Who installed these? Start over, this time taking a level and measuring the actual difference in the floor from the wall out to where the front feet will be. Then adjust the feet on the cabinets to match, fine tuning as you install.
Chances are you don't need 2x4's at all under the front feet. If the difference front to back is really that pronounced, you might even look at removing the rear feet altogether to gain another 1/4-1/2".
More pics showing the rear legs would help, and take your 4' level and measure the adjustment actually needed.
That being said, it actually looks like the adjustable feet at the rear are extended as far as the ones at the front.
Who installed these? Start over, this time taking a level and measuring the actual difference in the floor from the wall out to where the front feet will be. Then adjust the feet on the cabinets to match, fine tuning as you install.
Chances are you don't need 2x4's at all under the front feet. If the difference front to back is really that pronounced, you might even look at removing the rear feet altogether to gain another 1/4-1/2".
More pics showing the rear legs would help, and take your 4' level and measure the adjustment actually needed.
- torontotim
- Deal Addict
- Nov 17, 2012
- 4951 posts
- 4506 upvotes
- Toronto
Oh, and paint the wall behind the cabinets while you have them away from the wall. Will be a lot easier without the cabinets there.
- BDSL
- Deal Addict
- Sep 22, 2009
- 3272 posts
- 2152 upvotes
- Markham
I don't get it.....for someone that has nice tool cabinets and assuming also have many tools....but yet can't figure out what to do with the 2x4s....
Um....
Um....
- Gutty96
- Deal Guru
- Jun 24, 2006
- 13913 posts
- 8598 upvotes
Ya, I agree. I doubt the wood is even needed if you suck the back feet all the way up.torontotim wrote: ↑ If there's 1.5" of slope over the 24" depth of those cabinets, that's some oddball concrete pad.
That being said, it actually looks like the adjustable feet at the rear are extended as far as the ones at the front.
Who installed these? Start over, this time taking a level and measuring the actual difference in the floor from the wall out to where the front feet will be. Then adjust the feet on the cabinets to match, fine tuning as you install.
Chances are you don't need 2x4's at all under the front feet. If the difference front to back is really that pronounced, you might even look at removing the rear feet altogether to gain another 1/4-1/2".
More pics showing the rear legs would help, and take your 4' level and measure the adjustment actually needed.
- bubuski
- Deal Addict
- May 23, 2009
- 3472 posts
- 2098 upvotes
- Mississauga
The cabinets are arranged on the side wall of the garage (see the garage door rail). The legs have less entension towards the left so I'll bet the 1st left rear feet is not extended.torontotim wrote: ↑ If there's 1.5" of slope over the 24" depth of those cabinets, that's some oddball concrete pad.
That being said, it actually looks like the adjustable feet at the rear are extended as far as the ones at the front.
Who installed these? Start over, this time taking a level and measuring the actual difference in the floor from the wall out to where the front feet will be. Then adjust the feet on the cabinets to match, fine tuning as you install.
Chances are you don't need 2x4's at all under the front feet. If the difference front to back is really that pronounced, you might even look at removing the rear feet altogether to gain another 1/4-1/2".
More pics showing the rear legs would help, and take your 4' level and measure the adjustment actually needed.
My garage floor is similar. It slopes about 10" towards the garage door along the length. The side walls slope 1" towards the center for the first 24" inches then level out. With this setup water/snow melt always flows out the garage door and never pools along the side wall.
- gr8dlr
- Deal Expert
-
- Sep 1, 2005
- 19427 posts
- 14399 upvotes
- Markham
Me thinks you put 2x4 under the feet because you don't want to mar/scratch the epoxy floor.
We're all bozos on the bus until we find a way to express ourselves...
Failure is always an option...just not the preferred one!
Failure is always an option...just not the preferred one!
- bubuski
- Deal Addict
- May 23, 2009
- 3472 posts
- 2098 upvotes
- Mississauga
Use baseboard trim to build a skirt around each 2x4, paint it grey/black. You can also get the trim in metal or vinyl but wood will be easier to work with.snipe2014 wrote: ↑ Hi wondering if I can replace the 2x4 with something that would look better and get the job done? Any suggestions?
https://imgur.com/a/VP33AnV
Also shorten all the 2x4s so they dont expend past the feet. Some do in your picture.
- snipe2014 [OP]
- Deal Addict
- Apr 18, 2012
- 1598 posts
- 256 upvotes
Thanks for everyone chiming in..
The 2x4 is only at the front.
The cabinets are at tbe end of the wall mounted to the wall as well.
I need the 2x4 or else the cabinet won’t be levelled. There are no 2x4 at rear legs.
My garage is sloped very bad.
No I don’t need to restart the installation, it’s been done correctly. Yes it seems odd to have 2x4 but it’s needed because of massive drop in garage slope
Here are more clear pixs
https://imgur.com/a/m42rS6J
Also, no need to paint thst walls as slat walls are going up as we speak
The 2x4 is only at the front.
The cabinets are at tbe end of the wall mounted to the wall as well.
I need the 2x4 or else the cabinet won’t be levelled. There are no 2x4 at rear legs.
My garage is sloped very bad.
No I don’t need to restart the installation, it’s been done correctly. Yes it seems odd to have 2x4 but it’s needed because of massive drop in garage slope
Here are more clear pixs
https://imgur.com/a/m42rS6J
Also, no need to paint thst walls as slat walls are going up as we speak
- snipe2014 [OP]
- Deal Addict
- Apr 18, 2012
- 1598 posts
- 256 upvotes
I think ur suggestion might be good. However I couldn’t find it on their site. Do u have a link? I found a toe kick clip which is plastic and not sure if it can handle the weight. I should mention all cabinets are mounted onto the wall stud as wellBHA1 wrote: ↑ Are these 2x4 pieces in the front only (to level the cabinets because your floor is sloped)?
Or do you have them under the rear feet too?
If under all front and rear feet just remove them. They put them in to protect the floor but aren’t really needed at all
If at the front only then you need them. Try IKEA toe kick boards because they clip onto metal legs like yours. Designed for ikea kitchens but they’ll probably work. They come in black or almost-black colours.
- 2000teamti
- Jr. Member
- May 12, 2021
- 138 posts
- 62 upvotes
Did you run out of thread to adjust the legs? If so I’d buy some matching threaded rod at Brafasco, cut to length and replace.
snipe2014 wrote: ↑ Thanks for everyone chiming in..
The 2x4 is only at the front.
The cabinets are at tbe end of the wall mounted to the wall as well.
I need the 2x4 or else the cabinet won’t be levelled. There are no 2x4 at rear legs.
My garage is sloped very bad.
No I don’t need to restart the installation, it’s been done correctly. Yes it seems odd to have 2x4 but it’s needed because of massive drop in garage slope
Here are more clear pixs
https://imgur.com/a/m42rS6J
Also, no need to paint thst walls as slat walls are going up as we speak
- urbanshack
- Member
- Mar 9, 2019
- 229 posts
- 125 upvotes
- snipe2014 [OP]
- Deal Addict
- Apr 18, 2012
- 1598 posts
- 256 upvotes
Yea I ran out of thread. Only issue is the thread is bolted to the legs bottom. I can’t remove the thread to replace with another one. It’s like welded in2000teamti wrote: ↑ Did you run out of thread to adjust the legs? If so I’d buy some matching threaded rod at Brafasco, cut to length and replace.
- Agent240sx
- Jr. Member
- May 10, 2006
- 129 posts
- 74 upvotes
Hockey pucks and call it a day... eh.
Only 1 inch think tho
Only 1 inch think tho
- BDSL
- Deal Addict
- Sep 22, 2009
- 3272 posts
- 2152 upvotes
- Markham
There has to be some some tools in those fancy tool cabinets to make this work....
- sherwoodRFD
- Sr. Member
- Aug 22, 2012
- 590 posts
- 636 upvotes
- Mark Town
A toe kick is usually recessed 3" from the front. I would use 2 x 4 to frame a platform with recess, then use baseboard or a piece of wood to cover it. The factory legs are not used.
- 2000teamti
- Jr. Member
- May 12, 2021
- 138 posts
- 62 upvotes
Looks like there is a jamb nut on top of the foot, I don’t think it’s welded. Put the foot in a vice and undo the jamb nut.
In case it is welded get some coupling nuts and add some threaded rod.
5pcs Long Rod Nut Hex Coupling Nuts Galvanized Carbon Steel Hexagonal Sleeve Nut Standoffs M6 * 40 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07QJFV97K/ref ... UTF8&psc=1
In case it is welded get some coupling nuts and add some threaded rod.
5pcs Long Rod Nut Hex Coupling Nuts Galvanized Carbon Steel Hexagonal Sleeve Nut Standoffs M6 * 40 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07QJFV97K/ref ... UTF8&psc=1