Automotive

RFD Official Detailing Thread - Post all Detailing/Paint Related Questions here!

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  • May 15th, 2022 12:21 pm
Deal Fanatic
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Aug 9, 2009
5304 posts
924 upvotes
Just finished waxing my car.

It was a PAIN wiping off the wax residue from the paste wax i used. I am just wondering, did i use too much wax, or is paste wax normally a pain to remove? It took an hour and a half just to wipe off all the residue. It also required some muscle power.

Second question: I am thinking of using a spray wax on top of the paste wax. Should i bother doing this? or is it a waste of time?
Member
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Sep 10, 2009
306 posts
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azncapcom wrote: Just finished waxing my car.

It was a PAIN wiping off the wax residue from the paste wax i used. I am just wondering, did i use too much wax, or is paste wax normally a pain to remove? It took half an hour just to wipe off all the residue. It also required some muscle power.

Second question: I am thinking of using a spray wax on top of the paste wax. Should i bother doing this? or is it a waste of time?
You used too much, usually a paste wax isn't too hard to buff off. Sometimes it also depends on the wax, temperature and humidity. Next time spread it thin, almost invisible and wipe off after doing just a section ex. Half Hood, or 1/4 panel. In your case I would have sought the help of a quick detailer like ONR or Ultima Waterless Wash and sprayed it to your towel and then buffed off.

Skip the Spray Wax, just add another layer of wax if you can next week. Remember to go up to 3 after that just apply the law of diminishing returns, you won't get that much more protection for the effort your put in it.

-Hamza
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Deal Fanatic
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Aug 9, 2009
5304 posts
924 upvotes
hamza7 wrote: You used too much, usually a paste wax isn't too hard to buff off. Sometimes it also depends on the wax, temperature and humidity. Next time spread it thin, almost invisible and wipe off after doing just a section ex. Half Hood, or 1/4 panel. In your case I would have sought the help of a quick detailer like ONR or Ultima Waterless Wash and sprayed it to your towel and then buffed off.

Skip the Spray Wax, just add another layer of wax if you can next week. Remember to go up to 3 after that just apply the law of diminishing returns, you won't get that much more protection for the effort your put in it.

-Hamza
I meant to say an hour and a half to wipe it off... god i practically killed my back. I think its because I waxed the whole car and then started to buff it out. I thought that was ok since the wax container said wipe off residue when its "dry" I thought that would mean I can leave it as long as I want for it to "dry"
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Sep 10, 2009
306 posts
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azncapcom wrote: I meant to say an hour and a half to wipe it off... god i practically killed my back. I think its because I waxed the whole car and then started to buff it out. I thought that was ok since the wax container said wipe off residue when its "dry" I thought that would mean I can leave it as long as I want for it to "dry"
Yeah those directions are really "suggestions" because weather and environment change from city to city but the label stays the same. Next time your in doubt, do the "swipe test" after you do the panel. Swipe your clean finger across the haze, it comes out hazy then it's still "curing" if it's a clean swipe then it's really to buff off.
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Jr. Member
Jan 10, 2007
189 posts
22 upvotes
Couple suggestions needed.

Was wondering what's a good polish to remove swirls and long lasting wax or sealant that I can apply and remove by hand without too much trouble? Also what's a good leather cleaner and conditioner for a tan coloured leather.

I recently purchased some optimum poli-seal and it seems to be pretty good so far for hand appication. Not sure how well the wax/sealant part is (just rained today, so far so good) but with the right amount of effort the polishing part does remove quite a bit of swirls. Any feedback on poli-seal? I read that I should still put a layer of wax on top of it as this AIO doesn't last very long.

Thanks for the feedback
Newbie
Jun 28, 2012
26 posts
2 upvotes
Barrie, ON
It's hard to recommend something to remove swirls by hand with - to do the whole car will be very challenging and time consuming. I'll use Meguiars M105 around door handles etc where I can't get a polisher followed up by M205. If you're interested in starting to do this type of work for yourself, I'd recommend you pick yourself up a decent polisher.

My go to for winter protection is usually Collinite 476s. Not the most user friendly product but it produces great results. Other Collinite products provide excellent durability as well and are easier to remove than the 476s.
Jr. Member
Jan 10, 2007
189 posts
22 upvotes
CrystalClearHeadlights wrote: It's hard to recommend something to remove swirls by hand with - to do the whole car will be very challenging and time consuming. I'll use Meguiars M105 around door handles etc where I can't get a polisher followed up by M205. If you're interested in starting to do this type of work for yourself, I'd recommend you pick yourself up a decent polisher.

My go to for winter protection is usually Collinite 476s. Not the most user friendly product but it produces great results. Other Collinite products provide excellent durability as well and are easier to remove than the 476s.
Thanks for the reply.

What kind of polisher would you recommend and where could I get one?
Deal Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
5848 posts
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Zaku_4 wrote: Thanks for the reply.

What kind of polisher would you recommend and where could I get one?
Griot DA or PC7424 at eshine.
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Newbie
Jun 28, 2012
26 posts
2 upvotes
Barrie, ON
Zaku_4 the PC 7424 has been around for some time and has quite a following. I have the Griot 3" - I would hope it's bigger brother is quite a bit more powerful. Once you've worked with something like a PC 7424 for swirl removal, *some* scratch removal and waxing / polishing - you can then decide if you want to move to something more powerful or an orbital to add to your capabilities.

Doug
Banned
Sep 22, 2008
8322 posts
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going to have to remove some swirls and wax the cars before it starts to snow.
Deal Addict
Jul 16, 2005
3487 posts
208 upvotes
Toronto
anyone want to place an order on eshine.ca to save on shipping.
Newbie
Jun 28, 2012
26 posts
2 upvotes
Barrie, ON
I missed the last eshine.ca order - anyone who still wants to place and eshine.ca order to save shipping costs please let me know. Order goes in Monday at latest. Please email me for details.
Deal Addict
Jul 16, 2005
3487 posts
208 upvotes
Toronto
Any suggestion on how to clean leatherette? I've used OPC diluted to 3:1 but I want something that will save me a bit more time. With OPC I have to clean it and wipe it down with water then use a protectant. Also any other suggestions for a protectant that works better than 303 Aerospace protectant. I just noticed that my driver seat is starting to crack and I've been using 303 aerospace. It might just be me not applying it enough or not too often.
How often do you guys apply a protectant for your interior?
Member
Feb 23, 2013
499 posts
50 upvotes
NORTH YORK
I am trying to get some scratches out of plastic bodywork, they aren't very deep but they do show up since the color is black. Is there any product that anyone recommends?
Deal Addict
Jul 13, 2006
2153 posts
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Thornhill
What comes first (or best to apply first), opti-coat on top of clear bra or clear bra on top of opti-coat?
Member
Jan 18, 2010
380 posts
40 upvotes
Toronto
Oldmaster wrote: I am trying to get some scratches out of plastic bodywork, they aren't very deep but they do show up since the color is black. Is there any product that anyone recommends?
I would try meguiars ultimate compound followed by the polish. Bumpers don't have a ton of paint so tread lightly.
Myv wrote: What comes first (or best to apply first), opti-coat on top jof clear bra or clear bra on top of opti-coat?
Clearbra then opticoat on top. You might as well get the UV protection for the clear bra, and it makes it a bit easier to clean

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