Automotive

RFD Official Detailing Thread - Post all Detailing/Paint Related Questions here!

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Jul 19, 2006
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jtcb wrote: Someone in another forum suggests me using sealant in addition to the 3M tape for a more secure fitment and won't fall off. You know those that use to seal the gap between bathtub and tile. Do you think it is a good idea? Will it work on plastic/fibreglass bumper?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/produ ... 00a653cad7

[IMG]http://a116.g.akamai.net/7/116/8068/inf ... 888761.jpg[/IMG]
It'll work, but odds are it'll be on there forever. Just in case you ever wanted to remove it...
duster wrote: Denaturated alcohol isn't Isopropyl.

Like someone else said, it's drinkable alcohol (Ethanol) which has been rendered undrinkable by adding some % of toxic alcohol/solvent in the mix (typically Methanol)

But rubbing alcohol CAN be made of Ethyl alcohol + denaturants (so, denaturated alcohol), rubbing alcohol being a common non-specific term, not a chemical term.

And I found that denaturated is way better than Isopropyl as a solvent to "cut" the oil/grease/wax stuff.

My 2 cents.
OK, I was just trying to save him time. ISA alcohol can be found just about anywhere and is more than sufficient for cleaning out a chip, which is what he was doing. Of course if you want to cut polish residue or a sealant than you should probably just grab some prepsol.
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Jul 2, 2006
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I thought I share how I did my Accord:

Step 1 Wash:
Equipment used: Meguiar's Gold Glass Shampoo, wash mitt, microfiber (MF) drying towel, two buckets

This is a pretty simple process, fill one bucket with soap and water and the other with just water, dip the mitt into the soapy one and then wash the car. You rinse your mitt into the water before you dip it again in the soapy water. Remember to wash top first to bottom last. Dry with MF towel.

Step 2 Clay bar:
Equipment used: Meguair's Smooth Surface Clay Kit, Quick detailer, MF towel

Remember to work in a 2 by 2 area. Knead the claybar into a round shape and then spray a generous amount of quick detailer on the paint surface and claybar (to get it wet). Then without putting pressure move the claybar across the surface until you start to feel the surface you are claying smoothing out. (Think of the claybar like an eraser). Then just wipe the area you just clayed with a MF towel. Remember though, if you drop the claybar on the floor, it's ruined, you have to throw it out.

Step 3: Klasse All-In-One
Equipment used: Klasse All-In-One, Blue Foam Polishing Applicator (found on eshine), MF towel

For this I used Asad_A203's instructions:
Asad_A203 wrote: Apply a small amount (hard to say but a single line (bottle has a little hole) across the applicator) to the vehicle and move your pad in a circular motion over a 2X2 area. Each pass will overlap 50% of the prior pass. After doing that; do the opposite direction (instead of side to side do up to down). By then the Klasse AIO will become nearly transparent and will slightly haze; at this point you follow the same direction you waxed but buff the KAIO off with a MF Towel. If you notice buffing off is difficult; apply some Quick Detailer on the MF Towel and try it again. On the next pass also reduce your KAIO amount if you had difficulties buffing off on your original pass. Repeat until your vehicle is completely done (safe to do on plastics,glass,metal, etc.).
Step 4: Klasse SG
Equipment Used: Klasse Sealant Glaze, Applicator Yellow Foam Sealant/Carnauba (found on eshine) MF towel

For this I used Asad_A203's instructions again:
Asad_A203 wrote: Wet your MF Applicator pad with distilled water and wring out any excess water. Apply an extremely thin amount of SG (1/2-1/3 or KAIO amount) and spread over a 1X2 area. Your amount should be so thin you can barely see KSG during application. If you apply too much it will be very, very difficult to buff off.

Do the same method for applying Klasse AIO; BUT keep the area smaller (1X2 for example) and buff imediately after 30 seconds. You repeat this until you have your vehicle completely covered. You do not need to rewet your applicator pad at any point. You need to wait 24 hours to allow the sealant to bond properly before you can layer again.
I applied 4 coats of Klasse SG (taking 4 days)

Step 5: Waxing
Equipment used: P21S Concours Look Carnauba Paste Wax, Simoniz Random Orbital Polisher, Wax Applicator pad, MF towel

I applied this much like KAIO and KSG, I simply worked on a 2x2 area, move the buffer and do passes, each pass 50% overlap. After application, I waited until it starts to haze then I would just use the MF towel to remove.

I applied 3 coats of P21S (taking 3 days)

I think this is important but for each of the 5 steps, you have to use a different MF towel for each step. So don't think you can get by with 1 MF towel ;)
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Sep 1, 2005
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picus wrote: OK, I was just trying to save him time. ISA alcohol can be found just about anywhere and is more than sufficient for cleaning out a chip, which is what he was doing. Of course if you want to cut polish residue or a sealant than you should probably just grab some prepsol.
No worries, nothing intended else than clarifications.
DaVillen wrote: What makes that the best deal is the size (Unit Dimensions (WxHxD)
21.1" x 19.1" x 7.0"). You won't find a 19" LCD with a 21.1" width, most 19" LCD widescreens are about 16" to 18". The size is more comparable to a 23" LCD.
*HEATWARE*
Newbie
Aug 16, 2008
54 posts
Toronto
Im interested in doing the steps Bst did. Is Klass only sold on eshine? Is there a local store like Parts Source, etc that carry a large selection of auto products? I'd like to do this over the long wkend so if I can get my hands on those bottles that'll be great
[OP]
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Jan 5, 2006
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bassman218 wrote: Im interested in doing the steps Bst did. Is Klass only sold on eshine? Is there a local store like Parts Source, etc that carry a large selection of auto products? I'd like to do this over the long wkend so if I can get my hands on those bottles that'll be great
Klasse is available on many detailing stores but eshine typically has better pricing and is located in Canada so many people go with eshine. Most local stores will not carry Klasse; although a few speciality stores might (I believe there is a rebranded Klasse available domestically but the name slips my mind).

If you don't have any Klasse available; I would give another sealant a go.

I personally prefer the Klasse approach but you will get usually equivalent results when you use other reputable products (Zaino is one that is available locally as someone mentioned before and are excellent products). Some might also prefer the results of Zaino as opposed to Klasse. Just remember prep and attention to detail makes the difference; the LSP is only as good as the prep put in.
[OP]
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bst wrote: I thought I share how I did my Accord:

Step 1 Wash:
Equipment used: Meguiar's Gold Glass Shampoo, wash mitt, microfiber (MF) drying towel, two buckets

This is a pretty simple process, fill one bucket with soap and water and the other with just water, dip the mitt into the soapy one and then wash the car. You rinse your mitt into the water before you dip it again in the soapy water. Remember to wash top first to bottom last. Dry with MF towel.

Step 2 Clay bar:
Equipment used: Meguair's Smooth Surface Clay Kit, Quick detailer, MF towel

Remember to work in a 2 by 2 area. Knead the claybar into a round shape and then spray a generous amount of quick detailer on the paint surface and claybar (to get it wet). Then without putting pressure move the claybar across the surface until you start to feel the surface you are claying smoothing out. (Think of the claybar like an eraser). Then just wipe the area you just clayed with a MF towel. Remember though, if you drop the claybar on the floor, it's ruined, you have to throw it out.

Step 3: Klasse All-In-One
Equipment used: Klasse All-In-One, Blue Foam Polishing Applicator (found on eshine), MF towel

For this I used Asad_A203's instructions:



Step 4: Klasse SG
Equipment Used: Klasse Sealant Glaze, Applicator Yellow Foam Sealant/Carnauba (found on eshine) MF towel

For this I used Asad_A203's instructions again:



I applied 4 coats of Klasse SG (taking 4 days)

Step 5: Waxing
Equipment used: P21S Concours Look Carnauba Paste Wax, Simoniz Random Orbital Polisher, Wax Applicator pad, MF towel

I applied this much like KAIO and KSG, I simply worked on a 2x2 area, move the buffer and do passes, each pass 50% overlap. After application, I waited until it starts to haze then I would just use the MF towel to remove.

I applied 3 coats of P21S (taking 3 days)

I think this is important but for each of the 5 steps, you have to use a different MF towel for each step. So don't think you can get by with 1 MF towel ;)
I'm sure it must have been a fun week :cheesygri .
[OP]
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silverjelly wrote: For those of you that apply Scotchguard, how do you do it?

I tried using the all-purpose stuff, and it looked so bad that I ended up trying to wipe some of it off with a damp cloth. I could tell where on the seats I sprayed because there were spots where the cloth was darker. Also, it was a hassle because it got on my seat buckles, doors, center console, etc. and I had to follow up on where it got so I could wipe it off.

Does anyone know why these spots didn't dry properly? Also, I don't think water is beading off the areas where I applied the SG; I'm pretty sure I did a good coat, but my can is still heavy (not even close to being empty).

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I have not used Scotchguard but it seems you might be spraying to close to the seats. Try maintaining the distance on the back of the bottle and try again. I would only use Scotchguard labelled for upholstery. This might be the issue (although I personally have no experience with Scotchguard products).

SG is very finicky about application. It can only be applied over very few surfaces (as in KAIO, a couple other synthetic sealants, itself, etc.) which makes me think you might have not applied it properly. That or you might have stripped it somehow. KSG only requires very thin application so it is normal your can is still full; KSG does not require more.

Best way to test is to strip the LSP on there right now with Prepsol/ISA wipedown and redo your application.
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Jul 2, 2006
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Asad_A203 wrote: I'm sure it must have been a fun week :cheesygri .
For real, needless to say, I had to wash the car everyday for 7 days straight. My arm was aching from all the applications. But the end results were worth it though.

My next step would be buying a Porter Cable and detailing the corolla :D
[OP]
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I was wondering if you guys would be interested in me doing a walkthrough on doing large touch ups. I really don't have much time with uni opening up this week; but if someone is planning to do something like that; it might help.

This will be my first large touch up attempt; haha. I will be following Kevin's guide and just making a picture by picture one for you guys. Don't be suprised if the results turn out bad; I don't have high hopes (why I am doing it on my Accord too :D ).

Question for you Kevin; my Accord has a paint chip exactly the same way that Civic did in your touch up guide. Question is; did u proceed to use body filler to level it then your touch up instructions; or did you just start touching it up?
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Asad_A203 wrote: ^^ Honestly I am not 100% on that. 3M tape is pretty much good for holding the part on but I can see it being an issue if water does get between the chrome and the body panel.
I couldn't find any 3M automobile graded double-sided tape. Not even at Canadian Tire. Where can it be found? Any shop has it in Vancouver area? The chrome I want to attach and the area I want to attach it to in the pic.

[IMG]http://i11.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/03/86/4b00_1.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachm ... g-left.jpg[/IMG]
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May 20, 2008
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Man haven't had any rest despite the long weekend.

1) sand scratches with 800, 1000, 2000 sandpaper
2) Compound the whole car
3) polish the car
4) wax the car

edit: btw detailing pros, how do you fix plastic/vinyl scratches? I tried magic eraser and that didnt work.
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Sep 5, 2002
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Whats something good for my Dashboard as a cleaner/protectant ?

I dont like Mcguires #40, used it in the past and it just stinks up the car
I dont like Aerospace303, I dont think it cleans or protects much, just my opinion.

So Id like something else other than above...I hate TurtleWax or ArmorAll anything LOL...

So what else is there ? Does Mothers have anything good ? PS - I prefer a matte finish

Many thanks !!!!!!!!!!!
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Jul 23, 2005
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you mentioned about KAIO doesnt have the things for removing swirls..

so should i use the 3 step (the first two step) to remove some swirls?

wash, clay, step 1 meg's paint cleaner, step 2 meg's polish (to remove swirls), KAIO, KSG

i need one way or another to remove minor swirls, but the KAIO isn't doing it for me, i think it's just hiding it.
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Jul 13, 2004
1914 posts
Thanks OP for the informative thread.

I'm very new to the world of auto detailing, and would like to start by properly doing a wash, clay, wax.

I looked on eShine and have this list, could you let me know if I'm missing anything?

- P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo
- Optimum No Rinse
- Riccardo Clay
- 2x Cookie Monster Buffing Towel
- 2x Sheepskin Mitt
- 2x Applicator Blue Foam Polishing
- Klasse All-In-One
- Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze

The total came to $150.20 before taxes (just breaking free shipping)
Do I need a wax product, or anything else?

Thanks so much for the help!
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Aug 16, 2008
54 posts
Toronto
Someone put bubble gum on my dad's van door. After getting it off, we noticed there are scratches over the paint. They're in circles and some were right through where you can see some metal color. How do I restore this?
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bassman218 wrote: Someone put bubble gum on my dad's van door. After getting it off, we noticed there are scratches over the paint. They're in circles and some were right through where you can see some metal color. How do I restore this?
for me, i tried washing the car with soap and try washing it off with some passion. if that fails, i tried it with some scratch remover, if a bit is coming off, try harder, if not claybar should do the trick
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bassman218 wrote: Someone put bubble gum on my dad's van door. After getting it off, we noticed there are scratches over the paint. They're in circles and some were right through where you can see some metal color. How do I restore this?
touch up paint + sand paper (800, 1000, 2000) + rubbing compound + polish + polish + polish + wax + wax + wax :cheesygri
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jtcb wrote: I couldn't find any 3M automobile graded double-sided tape. Not even at Canadian Tire. Where can it be found? Any shop has it in Vancouver area? The chrome I want to attach and the area I want to attach it to in the pic.

[IMG]http://i11.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/03/86/4b00_1.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachm ... g-left.jpg[/IMG]
Online would be the best bet. You might have luck at Part Source but online it can be found relatively easily.

That is some heavy chrome; is that for a foglamp chrome thing? I would definately invest in some heavier duty 3M double sided tape; but it should hold up.
[OP]
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kin0kin wrote: Man haven't had any rest despite the long weekend.

1) sand scratches with 800, 1000, 2000 sandpaper
2) Compound the whole car
3) polish the car
4) wax the car

edit: btw detailing pros, how do you fix plastic/vinyl scratches? I tried magic eraser and that didnt work.
Just a word of advice; never let 800 grit sandpaper touch paint. It can strip paint in 3-4 passes. The most aggressive you should go on a painted surface for scratches is 1500; most advocate 2000. 800 might even be a bit harsh when you strip the damaged area in preparation for a touch up.

Only way to really fix plastic/vinyl scratches is by heating the plastic to the point it becomes mouldable and filling in the scratch. Definately something most people would not like to be doing. Magic Eraser mostly just strips the top layer so I would probably not use that on plastic/vinyl surfaces as it can ruin the finish.
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JohnB wrote: Whats something good for my Dashboard as a cleaner/protectant ?

I dont like Mcguires #40, used it in the past and it just stinks up the car
I dont like Aerospace303, I dont think it cleans or protects much, just my opinion.

So Id like something else other than above...I hate TurtleWax or ArmorAll anything LOL...

So what else is there ? Does Mothers have anything good ? PS - I prefer a matte finish

Many thanks !!!!!!!!!!!
Aerospace 303 is probably one of the better dash cleaners but if you don't like that you can give some of these a try (I haven't used much of these as I am liking the results from my cleaners right now):

Lexol Vinylex
Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer (I use this; good for a quick detail)
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Klasse VLR

I haven't heard of any Mothers product but I personally don't buy Mothers products unless OTC.

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