Automotive

RFD Official Detailing Thread - Post all Detailing/Paint Related Questions here!

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Deal Addict
Nov 2, 2003
2121 posts
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i had my car rustproofed with this non-oil based stuff and it's all sticky and disgusting looking. i want to remove it all from visible areas under engine bay/doors/trunk so that i can get it done @ krown.

what's the best way to do this?
Newbie
Jun 27, 2008
21 posts
1 upvote
I will be purchasing a new, red forester in a few weeks. Subaru is not known for their paint finishes. What should I do to protect the finish. You'll have to be very explicit because I'm not a car person. Thanks
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Jul 5, 2005
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sdba wrote: I will be purchasing a new, red forester in a few weeks. Subaru is not known for their paint finishes. What should I do to protect the finish. You'll have to be very explicit because I'm not a car person. Thanks
If the car is BRAND NEW then I would suggest those clear invisible films such as Clearshield (http://www.clearshield.com/) or 3M Scotchguard shield. They are applied over your mirrors, hood, fender and/or bumper which are the most prone areas for damage.

You can do a quick search to see where to get them installed. I know Audio Heaven installs clear film and if you need a referral I'll gladly help you out.

Other than that just make sure you regularly wash/detail your car properly and wax. Check out the previous articles, this will ensure that your paint stays in good condition.
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Jan 5, 2006
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Toronto
sdba wrote: I will be purchasing a new, red forester in a few weeks. Subaru is not known for their paint finishes. What should I do to protect the finish. You'll have to be very explicit because I'm not a car person. Thanks
new vehicles usually require a prep. This can be done to remove the vinyl pieces adhesive from the vehicle; removing rail dust/dust off the vehicle. I would tell the dealer NOT to prep the vehicle but pay for having or part pay for having a private detailer prep it for you.

More often than not; new dealerships usually marr new paint with questionable wash/wax/polishing methods. Especially with the more common dealerships (ie. Honda, Suburu, Toyota, Nissan, etc.).

Prepping your vehicles requires the purchase of Prepsol. This is applied to remove any adhesive off your vehicle from vinyl and any possible protection put on by the dealership/factory. Since there is no wax or any protection on your vehicle; you must be careful with your wash methods to not induce any marring. You will then follow up with a fine detail clay of the vehicle to remove any rail dust. After claying; examine the paint under halogens/xenons/sunlight to see if you induced any micromarring. If you have; you will need to follow up with a polish with a PC (white pad; speed 3-4, SSR 1.0). After this you will seal your vehicle paint; new vehicles I would highly recommend applying a sealant and layering it; do not wax. Layer the sealant (3-4 layers). You basically want your paint looking the absolute best before you put a clear bra on it; once you do that it will lock the paint condition underneath.

You usually need to wait 6 months before applying a clear bra as well on newly painted vehicles; so I would ask Suuburu how old your vehicle is.
Sr. Member
Oct 31, 2005
676 posts
236 upvotes
Hi Expert Detailers,

When I picked up the Civic from the detailership, it felt like there was a very fine "sap" sediment on the paint that made it feel rough to the touch. I told them to fix it before I took delivery, and when they brought the car back, it feel fine and quite smooth. Now almost 1 year after owning the car, the sediment has returned.

What is it? Some people told me it's industrial fallout and a clay bar will fix the problem. I'll try this weekend, but I'm not sure if it's not really overspray from paint. One side of the car had the sediment more pronouned than the other.

I've tried wax and polish combo, but the roughness still remain.
Deal Expert
Mar 23, 2004
31582 posts
12865 upvotes
m4gician wrote: yes.

They do offer a shine, but it's short lived.
But it's good to use in between waxings, to maintain the shine, no? I've found these washes to be pretty good anyway... They certainly aren't a substitute for normal waxing and polishing, but for the washes in between I think they are worthwhile.
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Sep 1, 2005
1387 posts
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ryyeung wrote: Hi Expert Detailers,

When I picked up the Civic from the detailership, it felt like there was a very fine "sap" sediment on the paint that made it feel rough to the touch. I told them to fix it before I took delivery, and when they brought the car back, it feel fine and quite smooth. Now almost 1 year after owning the car, the sediment has returned.

What is it? Some people told me it's industrial fallout and a clay bar will fix the problem. I'll try this weekend, but I'm not sure if it's not really overspray from paint. One side of the car had the sediment more pronouned than the other.

I've tried wax and polish combo, but the roughness still remain.
Clay bar is your friend!

You're right...the "gritty" texture is caused by air contamination. It consists of industrial fallout, rail dust (especially when the car is brand new), brake dust and any other environnemental contaminants.
DaVillen wrote: What makes that the best deal is the size (Unit Dimensions (WxHxD)
21.1" x 19.1" x 7.0"). You won't find a 19" LCD with a 21.1" width, most 19" LCD widescreens are about 16" to 18". The size is more comparable to a 23" LCD.
*HEATWARE*
Deal Addict
Jan 8, 2007
1863 posts
68 upvotes
I would use a quick detailer to maintain shine/beading/protection between waxes and/or washes.

In general sealants generally last longer than carnauba waxes, so I would recommend those rather than carnauba if you are looking for durability.
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Nov 5, 2003
309 posts
3 upvotes
what is the best way to fill out stone chip/ deep scratch
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Sep 1, 2005
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madmanx wrote: what is the best way to fill out stone chip/ deep scratch
  • Denaturated alcohol over the chips to remove wax and stuff
  • Smooth sanding over the chip area and deep cleaning (be careful and accurate with this sanding)
  • Touch-up paint from your dealer
  • Some fine artist brushes (the provided brush is good enough to paint a barn door, nothing more)
  • laquer thinner (just dip your brush into it before taking paint. It will be easier to control the application then)
  • 1 piece of cardboard (put a small drop of paint on it instead of dipping directly into the bottle)
  • very small grit wet sanding over the dry paint (ask a pro, be careful or skip this part)
  • Compounding
  • Waxing/Sealing
EDIT: 1 step disapeared in the process....

Et voil
DaVillen wrote: What makes that the best deal is the size (Unit Dimensions (WxHxD)
21.1" x 19.1" x 7.0"). You won't find a 19" LCD with a 21.1" width, most 19" LCD widescreens are about 16" to 18". The size is more comparable to a 23" LCD.
*HEATWARE*
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Sep 30, 2001
29150 posts
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Toronto
Can anyone recommend some specific products I can use to clean the dust (etc) off of the plastic "glass" in front of the gauges on the dash? i have a microfiber cloth but that just seems to make things worse.
Be kind and civil with one another
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Jan 5, 2006
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ES_Revenge wrote: But it's good to use in between waxings, to maintain the shine, no? I've found these washes to be pretty good anyway... They certainly aren't a substitute for normal waxing and polishing, but for the washes in between I think they are worthwhile.
It is hard to say. I don't know what kind of stuff they put into the industrial sprayers but if I can clean a car without touching it at a carwash bay; that stuff must be either extremely high pressure to the point it can induce marring or it must be very strong to the point it will strip all of my wax.

I was actually forced to use a car wash bay last week and I noticed all of my 3 layers of P21S Concours were stripped off. In this case I would probably advise spraying that wax because it is stripping any wax you have on your car. All in all; don't wash your car at a bay wash if you don't have to. If you have water restrictions; use ONR.
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MrDisco wrote: Can anyone recommend some specific products I can use to clean the dust (etc) off of the plastic "glass" in front of the gauges on the dash? i have a microfiber cloth but that just seems to make things worse.
303 Aerospace protectant or Meguiars Quick Interior Detailer. I would buy a better quality MF towel and your results will probably change (I have gotten away with distilled water and a MF towel).
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Jan 5, 2006
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ryyeung wrote: Hi Expert Detailers,

When I picked up the Civic from the detailership, it felt like there was a very fine "sap" sediment on the paint that made it feel rough to the touch. I told them to fix it before I took delivery, and when they brought the car back, it feel fine and quite smooth. Now almost 1 year after owning the car, the sediment has returned.

What is it? Some people told me it's industrial fallout and a clay bar will fix the problem. I'll try this weekend, but I'm not sure if it's not really overspray from paint. One side of the car had the sediment more pronouned than the other.

I've tried wax and polish combo, but the roughness still remain.
As others have mentioned; you will need to clay. After claying the vehicle; make sure you apply a wax/sealant. A better LSP (wax or sealant) wil help make this stuff easier to remove in the future.
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Jan 5, 2006
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[quote="duster" post_id="7099170" time="1216071361" user_id="29245"]
  • Denaturated alcohol over the chips to remove wax and stuff
  • Smooth sanding over the chip area and deep cleaning (be careful and accurate with this sanding)
  • Touch-up paint from your dealer
  • laquer thinner (just dip your brush into it before taking paint. It will be easier to control the application then)
  • 1 piece of cardboard (put a small drop of paint on it instead of dipping directly into the bottle)
  • very small grit wet sanding over the dry paint (ask a pro, be careful or skip this part)
  • Compounding
  • Waxing/Sealing
Et voil
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Sep 2, 2006
6290 posts
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Asad_A203 wrote: Pretty much same thing I would do (add primer and clear coat) except you don't want to be waxing or sealing the touch up for at least 6 months.
Very good, depending on what it is, it may need body filler if it's really, really deep.
--
I like detailing cars!
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Jul 4, 2004
7532 posts
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Toronto
MrDisco wrote: Can anyone recommend some specific products I can use to clean the dust (etc) off of the plastic "glass" in front of the gauges on the dash? i have a microfiber cloth but that just seems to make things worse.
The Original California Duster. Lives in my trunk. Nothing I hate more than seeing dust on my dashboard.
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Sep 1, 2005
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Asad_A203 wrote: Pretty much same thing I would do (add primer and clear coat) except you don't want to be waxing or sealing the touch up for at least 6 months.
I don't personally use primer & clear on a small chip (needle head size). But yeah, you can add those in the process for the bigger one.

You obviously must let the paint "bake" onto the car before sealing as for sanding. I'd not wait 6 months myself, especially in summertime on a black car like mine. But it's me
DaVillen wrote: What makes that the best deal is the size (Unit Dimensions (WxHxD)
21.1" x 19.1" x 7.0"). You won't find a 19" LCD with a 21.1" width, most 19" LCD widescreens are about 16" to 18". The size is more comparable to a 23" LCD.
*HEATWARE*
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Jan 5, 2006
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ElvaSoShexai wrote: no1 knows about the rustproof stuff?
Sorry; no experience with any of that. I am not even sure if anyone on Autopia might (alas maybe Kevin (Picus) or one of the other GTA detailers). You might want to ask specifically Krown if you can remove it. If they say you canl you should be able to use an APC (Megs DG) and ratio it and should be able to get rid of the gunk.

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