Automotive

RFD Official Detailing Thread - Post all Detailing/Paint Related Questions here!

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Nov 16, 2006
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5dark wrote: I left all my detailing liquids in my garage over the winter.. when I checked it wasn't frozen (it wasn't freezing temps either) or being damaged by the cold?

Stuff included normal shampoo, detailing lube, klasse AIO and sealant, rain-x. I'm guessing paste wax and clay would be okay?
I had Duragloss Aquawax in my trunk and it froze, then cracked the spray bottle. When it defrosted it leaked over all my stuff.

I read on autopia that the cold or freezing temperatures can change the properties of the liquids. It wouldn't hurt to store them indoors in the winter. I decided not to take my chances and moved everything out of my trunk.
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Going to get some Klasse AIO and instead of the High gloss sealant glaze I intend on using the Collinite 845 instead.

The car is dark green and there are lots of swirls. Most don't seem to be too deep and I know it should be clay barred.

I am thinking of buying a clay bar kit in a brick and mortar place vs eshine. Should I clay bar before polishing with a cutting polish?

I don't have a porter cable buffer but just one of those simoniz ones.

I am thinking the paint does need some correction.

Will paint correction with a cutting polish also wipe out all the swirls or will it just take out the shallow ones leaving the deeper ones?

Will I also need to buy a swirl remover separately?

I had originally planned to spend around $100 taxes in at eshine for some Klasse AIO, some collinite 845 and a few microfibre towels but if I need to clay bar and do paint correction the cost goes over $100.

Without a proper machine I am not even confident in doing the paint correction part myself but what's the use using top finishing products and the first few steps are not done right.

Is it better to outsource the clay barring and paint correction to a detailer and then do the finishing stages with the Klasse AIO and collinite myself?

I know it will cost more than I budgeted but the results will be better and then from there on I could do regular klasse and collinite applications to maintain the finish.
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gh05t wrote: Going to get some Klasse AIO and instead of the High gloss sealant glaze I intend on using the Collinite 845 instead.

The car is dark green and there are lots of swirls. Most don't seem to be too deep and I know it should be clay barred.

I am thinking of buying a clay bar kit in a brick and mortar place vs eshine. Should I clay bar before polishing with a cutting polish?

I don't have a porter cable buffer but just one of those simoniz ones.

I am thinking the paint does need some correction.

Will paint correction with a cutting polish also wipe out all the swirls or will it just take out the shallow ones leaving the deeper ones?

Will I also need to buy a swirl remover separately?

I had originally planned to spend around $100 taxes in at eshine for some Klasse AIO, some collinite 845 and a few microfibre towels but if I need to clay bar and do paint correction the cost goes over $100.

Without a proper machine I am not even confident in doing the paint correction part myself but what's the use using top finishing products and the first few steps are not done right.

Is it better to outsource the clay barring and paint correction to a detailer and then do the finishing stages with the Klasse AIO and collinite myself?

I know it will cost more than I budgeted but the results will be better and then from there on I could do regular klasse and collinite applications to maintain the finish.

What kind of pad will you be using with the Simoniz polisher? It might not even be worth it to try and polish with that thing. I wouldn't.

To answer your question, you should definitely clay before polishing.

Maybe you should just outsource the entire process to a detailer. Ask the detailer what product you should use to maintain the car's paint and go with that.

If I were you, I would just invest the money in a Porter Cable so you can detail your car every year, rather than spending the money on a detailer.
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gh05t wrote: Should I clay bar before polishing with a cutting polish?

I don't have a porter cable buffer but just one of those simoniz ones.

Will paint correction with a cutting polish also wipe out all the swirls or will it just take out the shallow ones leaving the deeper ones?

Without a proper machine I am not even confident in doing the paint correction part myself but what's the use using top finishing products and the first few steps are not done right.

Is it better to outsource the clay barring and paint correction to a detailer and then do the finishing stages with the Klasse AIO and collinite myself?
clay before u do ANYTHING to the paint after a wash!!!!!

don't use the simoniz buffer...in fact, don't use anything from simoniz at all.

depends on how deep the scratches are...how much paint correction u want done?

if ur not confident about paint correction then do not do it urself...bring it to a pro detailer and just maintain the car urself afterwards...if u messed up the paint u can't undo it, gotta repaint if it's severe. so cost of repainting or a few hundred to a pro detailer and just maintain urself afterwards? u be the judge. :)

if ur gonna outsource, then just outsource the whole job...most detailers are all or nothing...some people ask me if they wash the car and then bring it to me for paint correction will there be a discount...i tell them no b/c i have to re-wash and do everything myself otherwise i won't guarantee the work...just for my peace of mind... :razz:
hamza7 wrote: -AG HD Wax

Do I have to do polish the car even though there isn't webbing or anything else like that ?
Is the sealant part just for the crazy ana! or is there a real reason for it?

If you guys can recommend any other products I should buy or not buy from CT that would be great

Also how do you guys maintain the car's cleanliness in winter.
AG HD Wax is very underrated...get that. good wax. can't say the same for their shampoo...

u might not have to polish...do u want to jewel the paint instead?

don't buy AA products...=)

bring it to a detailer to have the car maintained in the winter time...i can help with that... ;)

after polishing, it's glaze, then sealant, then wax.
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Looking for the most low maintenance, least expensive/highest value detailing regime.

Car will be daily driven (a lot of highway miles) year round, and parked outdoors.

I'm thinking clay/polish/seal 1-2x a year. Then ONR every 2-3weeks.

Any recommendations? Klasse Twins perhaps?
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Sep 16, 2004
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Thanks comicbookguy and boredstudent3. Much appreciated.
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KevC wrote: Looking for the most low maintenance, least expensive/highest value detailing regime.

Car will be daily driven (a lot of highway miles) year round, and parked outdoors.

I'm thinking clay/polish/seal 1-2x a year. Then ONR every 2-3weeks.

Any recommendations? Klasse Twins perhaps?

Do you have a Porter Cable for polishing?

I have the Klasse Twins and I'm pretty pleased with it. The AIO is really easy to apply and the Sealant Glaze is rock solid. I put on about four to six layers of the SG and it still looks the same after eight months. I also topped it off with Duragloss Aquawax and the shine looks even better.

I love ONR because it's very easy to use. I wash it even in the winter in my building's garage (there's a car wash bay). I found the grout sponge from Home Depot was much better than using a microfibre towel.
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KevC wrote: Looking for the most low maintenance, least expensive/highest value detailing regime.

Car will be daily driven (a lot of highway miles) year round, and parked outdoors.

I'm thinking clay/polish/seal 1-2x a year. Then ONR every 2-3weeks.

Any recommendations? Klasse Twins perhaps?

you've got it Kev. Real easy, and affordable. Get a few microfibre towels, a few plush, a few to remove polish and a few foam applicators and the whole thing can be done by hand, aside from polish which needs to be machined.
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comicbookguy wrote: Do you have a Porter Cable for polishing?

I have the Klasse Twins and I'm pretty pleased with it. The AIO is really easy to apply and the Sealant Glaze is rock solid. I put on about four to six layers of the SG and it still looks the same after eight months. I also topped it off with Duragloss Aquawax and the shine looks even better.

I love ONR because it's very easy to use. I wash it even in the winter in my building's garage (there's a car wash bay). I found the grout sponge from Home Depot was much better than using a microfibre towel.
I do not, unfortunately. I'm thinking of purchasing one, but I've never used one before (nor detailed my car before), so I'm deathly afraid of making my paint worse than it is. Maybe I should pay to have it professionally detailed first, and ask a ton of questions so I can learn to do it myself.
m4gician wrote: you've got it Kev. Real easy, and affordable. Get a few microfibre towels, a few plush, a few to remove polish and a few foam applicators and the whole thing can be done by hand, aside from polish which needs to be machined.

Right on! Can't wait to start.
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KevC wrote: I do not, unfortunately. I'm thinking of purchasing one, but I've never used one before (nor detailed my car before), so I'm deathly afraid of making my paint worse than it is. Maybe I should pay to have it professionally detailed first, and ask a ton of questions so I can learn to do it myself.



Right on! Can't wait to start.

a porter cable will do no harm at all. It is so easy to use. you CAN polish with it, it'll take really long, that's all. It's great for applying wax and sealant but for polishing it takes a long time. BY virtue of that, you cannot do any damage.
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KevC wrote: I do not, unfortunately. I'm thinking of purchasing one, but I've never used one before (nor detailed my car before), so I'm deathly afraid of making my paint worse than it is. Maybe I should pay to have it professionally detailed first, and ask a ton of questions so I can learn to do it myself.
you got PM
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m4gician wrote: a porter cable will do no harm at all. It is so easy to use. you CAN polish with it, it'll take really long, that's all. It's great for applying wax and sealant but for polishing it takes a long time. BY virtue of that, you cannot do any damage.
i wouldn't give him the false sense of "not being able to do damage at all"

u can still do damage if ur not experienced. hopefully he hasn't heard of a rotary... ;)

sealant yes, wax, not so much. i like applying by hand using the pots and foam applicator.
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m4gician wrote: a porter cable will do no harm at all. It is so easy to use. you CAN polish with it, it'll take really long, that's all. It's great for applying wax and sealant but for polishing it takes a long time. BY virtue of that, you cannot do any damage.

+1

When I started detailing my car I had never used a Porter Cable before. I watched a lot of tutorial videos and got comfortable with it very quickly. It's possible to do damage but it would entail a serious mishap in order to do so. It's not like you can ruin your paint in an instant.

I like applying the Klasse Twins by hand. That's just my preference. I feel like I'm able to use less product when doing it by hand. I just use the PC for polishing.
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Sep 10, 2009
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Hey guys,

I have another question about products, and I know products are only the half of it, the other half is technique but my parents are going to South Carolina to give my uncle a visit and I want to order some supplies from Amazon.com and ship it to his house. Free Shipping + No Tax = :)

Here's the cart so far: Updated as per advice
  • Meg's G-7410 Enduro Shine ............$8.99
  • 2 x Grit Guard by CG (already have the buckets)..........................................$6.95
  • Eurow Sheepskin Pro mitt with rubber glove interrior (because I hate wrinkles on my hands after washing) ......................................................$11.87
  • Meg's C-2000 Pro Detailing Clay, Mild $15.92
  • 4 x Meg's high tech soft foam apps $1.96
  • 4 x Meg's Evencoat wax apps $2.77
  • Meg's water magnet drying towel $6.00
  • Collinite 845 $14.99
  • ONR 1 gal......................................$34.99
Total $115.73

anything else you guys would recommend??, I going to get AG SRP from CT and hand apply it and I just order the Klasse duo off e-shine because this thread raved so much about it but I could have saved a little if I ordered with the rest of the basket

In true RFD fashion I'm trying to detail on a budget and save as much as I can...

I have like 30 unused MF's, and I don't want to buy small stuff like applicators and foam pads because I'll just get that stuff from CT

One more question I use to dry the car with a regular MF and it did quite a good job but should I spend money on a waffle weave towel

Also I purposely ignored Carnuba wax because I don't really care for depth and gloss, I just want a long lasting detail job,
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Jul 18, 2009
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^ You might also check into http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/

Since they have the full Meg's line (consumer and pro), plus a few others, and their prices are comparable and sometimes better than Amazon. They also ship $100+ orders for free and don't charge sales tax for non-AZ orders. Every order I've placed shipped the same day (UPS) and I got an email confirmation w/ tracking #.

One problem w/ multi-part orders on Amazon (I do a lot of them) is that even if you check the box for minimum # of boxes, you don't know their fulfilment centre locations. This can be bad if you're pressed for time e.g. before Christmas, I had part of an order take a month because it was fulfilled in LA and shipped to NY by mule. This is especially bad if you're using a mail-service that charges by the box.
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hamza7 wrote: Hey guys,

I have another question about products, and I know products are only the half of it, the other half is technique but my parents are going to South Carolina to give my uncle a visit and I want to order some supplies from Amazon.com and ship it to his house. Free Shipping + No Tax = :)

This is a good idea

Here's the cart so far:
  • Meg's G-7410 Enduro Shine $8.99
  • Grit Guard by CG...............$6.95 get 2 grit guards and 2 buckets, u need to learn the 2BM, otherwise paint correction will go down the drain
  • Eurow Sheepskin Pro mitt with rubber glove interrior (because I hate wrinkles on my hands after washing) $11.87 sheepskin mitt is good choice, u could opt with grout sponge also
  • Meg's G7101 Gold Class Shampoo 1Gal 10.89 (CG Citrus wasn't on sale and I don't really care about dim plastics, pH doesn't mean anything to me...it's a lease) lose this, although it is quite cheap, i think costco here sell's for the same price IIRC and same size, yes 1 Gallon (3.78 L)
  • Meg's G14422 Ulti. Quck Detailer $7.96 u don't need this as clay lube, u can use the ONR, save money here
  • Meg's NXT 2.0 18 oz liquid.........$14.22 this is an alright OTC synthetic wax
  • Meg's C-2000 Pro Detailing Clay, Mild $15.92
  • ONR 1 gal...........................$34.99 u can buy this and lose the meg's GC wash and quick detailer...beauty of ONR, make sure u don't have ALOT of filth on ur car when u ONR though
Total $112

anything else you guys would recommend??, I going to get AG SRP from CT and hand apply it and I just order the Klasse duo off e-shine because this thread raved so much about it but I could have saved a little if I ordered with the rest of the basket
what are you trying to do? by the list of products it seems just wash and wax...if ur just goins to W&W then u only need soap, clay, and wax, you have it all there. NXT will have the foam applicator, u have clay and lube, and u have soap & wash media. good job

I have like 30 unused MF's, and I don't want to buy small stuff like applicators and foam pads because I'll just get that stuff from CT
crappy tire doesn't have good quality foam pads / applicators

One more question I use to dry the car with a regular MF and it did quite a good job but should I spend money on a waffle weave towel
MF is alright, just pat the surface dry and not wipe all over the place.
you also got PM from me. :)
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How can I extract dirt from the interior, I saw on detailing world a guy used meg's APC (IDK what that is) and sprayed it on the headliner then using a wet/dry vac, extracted a whole bunch of crap from the seats and headliner, he has given the ratio of the APC but where can I get it from because I already have a shopvac
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Feb 9, 2008
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5dark wrote: I left all my detailing liquids in my garage over the winter.. when I checked it wasn't frozen (it wasn't freezing temps either) or being damaged by the cold?

Stuff included normal shampoo, detailing lube, klasse AIO and sealant, rain-x. I'm guessing paste wax and clay would be okay?

I found the AIO frozen. The SG was liquid but dunno if it thawed out this past winter.

Does anyone know if it's still usable?

I found ppl with the same problem online but no one got a definite answer either way.
Feedback: HoFo, RFD
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hamza7 wrote: How can I extract dirt from the interior, I saw on detailing world a guy used meg's APC (IDK what that is) and sprayed it on the headliner then using a wet/dry vac, extracted a whole bunch of crap from the seats and headliner, he has given the ratio of the APC but where can I get it from because I already have a shopvac
usually people use a hot water extractor, Meg's APC+ is Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner Plus. as the name suggests, it can be used in a variety of ways. the jug has recommended dilution ratios. 4:1 for degreasing, 10:1 for interior surface, etc.

u don't have to get Meg's APC+, there's also Optimum Power Clean, also an APC but more expensive than Meg's.

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/d10301.html

currently OOS for the 1 gallon jug.
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Dec 8, 2009
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Hi,

Just picked up my new baby golf gti and after reading some comments on prep work for new vehicles, I'm just wondering quality of vw paint etc and if detailing/paint work is neccessary? Also, any good private detailer in the Ottawa region or GTA (I travel to GTA occasionally). Please bare with me here, I see many folks are putting on the invisible bra, will you still be able to wax that portion of the car afterward? I plan on foam/pressure wash the car on a monthly basis and wax 1-2 times a year on my own.

Thanks in advance for the input.

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