thank you for your reply! I will think on it.RunnerForDeals wrote: ↑ I know people aren't giving you costing estimates which is what you are asking. I would guess it would cost about $1200 - $1400 to have a professional company do it.
However, you can do this yourself. Buy a box of Cat 6e shielded cable for about $200 (https://www.infinitecables.com/bulk-cab ... ulk-cable/) and then run those through your cold air returns in the house and up to the attic. Your cold airs upstairs should be near the ceiling so you take the cover off and then take sting with 8 or so large washers tied on the end and you drop it down to the ground. You just keep jiggling and shaking until you use up about 16' - 20' of the string when taught. You will know you are at the bottom then. You then go to the basement and listen for the noise when someone upstairs pulls and drops the washers on the air duct. Then you know where they are in the basement. You then go to your unfished furnished area and use a fish tool to snake into the cold air ducks and grab the string. bring it back into your unfinished area and then cut a hole in the duct and you can pull the string out. Now you have a path from the basement to the wall of the upper floor. Now you go in to attack and cut a large hole in the stud header where the cold air return is and you now have access from the basement to attic. Now attach the cat 6e and another string to the washers and start pulling up. Once you get to the cold air vent you can manually feed it through the joist header hole and into the attic. Voila, you now have it in the attic and can pull it to the room you want and then cut a hole in that rooms stud header and feed the cable down. Cut a hole in the drywall where you want it to come out and fish it through. Now you use that second string to pull the first string (one with the washers) back down to the basement and you simply repeat this for all the rooms you want to pull the cable too. Once done you add aluminum tape to the hole you make in the ductwork to come it completely and then you use silicone caulking in the stud header to seal the holes and seal the vapor barrier back down. Use boxless keystone covers and use a crimper to put the ends on the cables.
It would cost you about $300 for materials and then just your labour.
Certain rooms have weird deadspots I'm not sure why so I was planning on hooking up an AP upstairs to solve the issues.FrostyWinnipeg wrote: ↑ Ethernet over powerline but what's wrong with the wifi?
Ethernet will always be more stable/reliable, faster and more secure.FrostyWinnipeg wrote: ↑ Ethernet over powerline but what's wrong with the wifi?
I’m no expert but... The electrical supply stores and some of the computer stores like Canada Computers carry it. Big box hardware stores also carry it.
Just do a price comparison yourself. However, make sure you compare apples to apples, because cheap no-name cable just doesn't compare to good name brands like Belden. Higher risk of defects in cheap no-name cable, and yes, this can be important even for small DIY projects. For example, I got some uber cheap Chinese-made no-name cable and I found that every so often my installed lines just refused to work, even after re-terminating them with a new jack. This was never a problem with the Belden cable I bought, but the Belden cost literally three to four times as much. What's even worse if finding out that the cable is problematic long after the install is completed (and the drywall is up).
The one and only place I get my cable from in the GTA is Infinite Cables. Been buying from them for years.
I don’t cheap out on cables. When ever I wire a house, I always use high quality cable. Belden or Panduit and it usually costs 3 to 4 times as much as the cheap stiff from China.EugW wrote: ↑Put it this way: According to a couple of people I communicated with who do installs at major data centres, they always buy one of the top tier brands, because the failure rate of cheaper brands is high enough to be a significant factor. Not worth the hassle, esp. considering the high cost of labour for installers. We as DIYers probably do not need to be as strict, but it's something to consider.
BTW, I always try to install twice as many lines as I think I need.
There's no way my wife lets me spend $2000 on the entire thing, let alone on cable.Gee wrote: ↑ I don’t cheap out on cables. When ever I wire a house, I always use high quality cable. Belden or Panduit and it usually costs 3 to 4 times as much as the cheap stiff from China.
Everyone is quoting 2000$ for the installation, I spent more than that just on my cables.
Installers are correct, the last thing you need is one bad cable behind a wall and you can’t easily replace it.
I also tend to drop more than I need. Again, it is better to have more than less, it is harder to add lines later on. In my house, each room has a minimum of 2 drops per wall and some rooms have 6 or 8 connections. I have two 48 port switches and 75% of it is occupied.
The average user doesn’t have to go crazy but this is one instance where you want to do it once and forget about it. Because the second time around will cost you more
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