Sealing Draft (not window or door)

Chingyul wrote: ↑ Hey,
There's a small loft space above my enclosed porch. I can feel a draft in the room, but it's not any of the doors or windows, so I took a infrared thermometer and found it's pretty cold at the joints between the floor and the wall of the loft (some visible gaps for sure). What can I add to insulate/seal this space that won't look TOO bad (ie: spray foam bead).

Take the time to do it well/right. Take the baseboard (or equivalent) off. Seal the corner of floor-to-wall joint with the following product/products as needed:

* Caulking
* Caulking + backer rod
* High density spray foam (e.g. TiteFoam)

Trim spray foam down to match wall/floor profile, using a utility knife. Then, use technical tape (Tuck Tape) to cover the foam/caulking, as well as any gaps or nail holes/etc in the wall material that was behind the baseboard. Make sure you don't put anything that will be higher than the top of the baseboard or stick out the front, obviously (if you have holes higher, fix those as per normal.)

Finally, reattach the baseboard. Depending on the quality of the baseboard and how easy (or not) it was to remove it, you might need to install new baseboard instead of reusing what you reused.

Also, if there are any electrical boxes/outlets/switches on that wall, take the cover plates off and reinstall with the foam anti-draft gaskets you can get at HD/etc.

I pretty much did the above process for every baseboard in the house that was an outside wall or demising wall with my semi-detached neighbor. The goal was to reduce air movement/convection (drafts) but also to help seal out tobacco smoke migration from my neighbor to me. It helped dramatically on both counts.

Backer rod! Forgot about that stuff!
Thanks for the idea guys. Will have to modify the suggestions a bit.
There's no baseboards in this area. Picture an a-frame roof line, and the loft cuts straight across, so the roof slopes right to the floor (it's only like a 4 foot head space at the top!