Shims for straightening studs before installing drywall do they work?

https://www.amazon.ca/Grip-Rite-GRDWSHI ... 047&sr=8-4

I will never need that many, I will be better off making then using a table saw although cutting along the grain is not a joy. (maybe using a band saw which I don't have)

Way too pricy. Rip some shims from a 2x4 if you have a table saw. If you have 1 stud that is proud, use a power planer to remove some material.


Not sure when EC gets the cardboard shims but I would rip some 2x4.

CuriousC wrote: ↑ I was looking for ways to straighten drywall or cement board ...I guess this is critical only if you install tiles on top or the studs are way way too out of level and it becomes visible even for a painted wall

I have never seen the product shown in this video in our big box stores. I never looked for it and an online search doe not return anything from these stores. Do you instaĺl these beofre of after the plastic used for humidity barrier?

If it's a non-bearing wall, try this trick of notching the 2x4

https://www.instagram.com/reel/COMLze8H ... =copy_link

Yes there is a couple of methods to fix this but the one that you ere suggesting is the most arguable one as geometrically it does not make any sense. Hitting the exact point where to cut is difficult and the studs are not straight lines from the flexing point, most of the times the non linearity is due to a curve rather than to a flexion in a straight line
I think the best way is to use power tools to shave the curves and then use shims when you have a stright line but stil out of plane

Use L- track and or 1x2, screw the long side to the side of the studs and the short side will be in front of your stud. Do this if you don’t need support on that wall, might be a little difficult to screw drywall though.

CuriousC wrote: ↑ Do you instaĺl these beofre of after the plastic used for humidity barrier?

For this it doesn't really matter, you could install them after, or without removing the vapour barrier if its a reno to level out some "low" spots on the wall.

This said, usually if I'm going to go about doing something like this I would handle this all before. Probably grab my 78" and shave down all the "high" spots and shim any of the "low" spots as required to get a nice plumb wall from the get go.

In reality, its never really going to be all that perfect and even for tiles it shouldn't be too big a deal unless someone really gave you the bottom of the pile from a big box store of studs.