Smoke Detector Beeping

Some smoke detects will beep when they are expired. 10 years is the norm but some have a 7 year design life and will start beeping then.
Though do make sure its not a monoxide warning alarm or just that the battery backup needs replacing.

Also since all three are the same swap them between floors and see what happens.
Check the manual if so see if its a low level carbon monoxide alarm, if it is then you need to get the fire department there pronto.

lightspeed wrote: ↑ I have three interconnected smoke detectors (BRK SC9120A) with manufacture date Jan 2015. The basement one started beeping (3 quick beeps about every minute). I turned off the power to the smoke detectors and back on, but the same smoke detector continues to beep.

Is there any other troubleshooting I can do, or should I look into replacing this beeping one (or all 3)?

The only sale I found is Lowes/Rona selling hardwired one for $48.49. With inflation, everything is up, so wondering if this sale price is a good deal, or still expensive?


https://www.rona.ca/en/product/first-al ... xOfDB8WXww

Backup battery is almost dead

Remove the unit ... replace the battery.

Or ... get NEW ones ...

https://support.firstalert.com/s/articl ... hirps-Mean

3 chirps (about 1x per minute): Malfunction chirp

Cause:
Malfunction warning.
Solution:
Replace with a new alarm as soon as possible.
Check to ensure that your alarm is not expired and in need of replacement. If it's still under warranty, return alarm to the manufacturer for replacement.

Costco has a 2 pack of fire/CO hard wire linked for $100. I think I paid around 70 ea for mine a few years back.

Quentin5 wrote: ↑ Some smoke detects will beep when they are expired. 10 years is the norm but some have a 7 year design life and will start beeping then.
Though do make sure its not a monoxide warning alarm or just that the battery backup needs replacing.

Also since all three are the same swap them between floors and see what happens.
Check the manual if so see if its a low level carbon monoxide alarm, if it is then you need to get the fire department there pronto.

I don't agree with using fire department resources for a low level CO alarm.
Open a few windows, while heading to the exit.
Use common sense to decide the next safe action.
The place isn't on fire, and there is no immediate danger that requires the fire department "pronto".

I'd suggest the time spent checking the manual should actually be spent on ventilation and possibly evacuation.
Your suggested course of action is contradictory, as it suggests no changes while you check the manual, and then an instant OMG called the fire department.

arisk wrote: ↑ I don't agree with using fire department resources for a low level CO alarm.
Open a few windows, while heading to the exit.
Use common sense to decide the next safe action.
The place isn't on fire, and there is no immediate danger that requires the fire department "pronto".

I'd suggest the time spent checking the manual should actually be spent on ventilation and possibly evacuation.
Your suggested course of action is contradictory, as it suggests no changes while you check the manual, and then an instant OMG called the fire department.

I disagree. The fire department is literally there to test for CO and diagnose the problem. Without a proper gas monitor, you can't properly test for CO.
With just a detector, there's no way to know if it's a false alarm or not, and you won't be able to properly diagnose the problem, unless you have only one fuel burning appliance.

Also, if you're CO detector does go off, please do not ventilate. If a window is open, close it. Close exterior doors behind you when you evacuate. if you ventilate, you make it next to impossible to diagnose the issue

arisk wrote: ↑ I don't agree with using fire department resources for a low level CO alarm.
Open a few windows, while heading to the exit.
Use common sense to decide the next safe action.
The place isn't on fire, and there is no immediate danger that requires the fire department "pronto".

I'd suggest the time spent checking the manual should actually be spent on ventilation and possibly evacuation.
Your suggested course of action is contradictory, as it suggests no changes while you check the manual, and then an instant OMG called the fire department.

One checks the manual to decipher what 3 beeps means, if its monoxide then call it in and get out.
If its a dead backup battery then replace the battery, if the device is EOL then buy a new detector.
Ventilation can be a bad idea at low levels as it makes it harder to find the source.

3 beeps per minute does not suggest acute emergency. However if you prefer he leave now and checks on his phone i have no argument there.

/Rocket science

Quentin5 wrote: ↑ One checks the manual to decipher what 3 beeps means, if its monoxide then call it in and get out.
If its a dead backup battery then replace the battery, if the device is EOL then buy a new detector.
3 beeps per minute does not suggest acute emergency. However if you prefer he leave now and checks on his phone i have no argument there.

/Rocket science

Oh my, oh my where did I put that manual. Now I know it's around here somewhere. Maybe it's upstairs . maybe it's downstairs. Gee willikers I know it's around here somewhere. Maybe I can go online and download it. Oh darn I'm feeling drowsy now.

pootza wrote: ↑ Oh my, oh my where did I put that manual. Now I know it's around here somewhere. Maybe it's upstairs . maybe it's downstairs. Gee willikers I know it's around here somewhere. Maybe I can go online and download it. Oh darn I'm feeling drowsy now.

We will have to teach some how to use The Google™

Back in the day smoke and Co alarms are only good for 7 years, I hear new ones made can last 10 years. Even so, I have seen smoke alarm fail before 7 years so it is good to replace when it fails. You can try to replace the battery, and if it still chirps then you likely need to replace the unit.

Shaner wrote: ↑ I disagree. The fire department is literally there to test for CO and diagnose the problem. Without a proper gas monitor, you can't properly test for CO.
With just a detector, there's no way to know if it's a false alarm or not, and you won't be able to properly diagnose the problem, unless you have only one fuel burning appliance.

Also, if you're CO detector does go off, please do not ventilate. If a window is open, close it. Close exterior doors behind you when you evacuate. if you ventilate, you make it next to impossible to diagnose the issue

I don't think the fire department is there for diagnosing low batteries, which is what most have suggested is likely.
If my smoke detector starts beeping, I consider the obvious first, before calling the fire dept.

Ventilate to safely enter, and change the batteries. Observe effects.

If you still aren't confident, turn off gas appliances. Observe effects.

If you wish to follow through with a fire dept. call, make sure it is a lower priority response.
Having ambient levels near zero should make detection easier, as then the source would stand out more.
If they wish to close the windows, they can always to so.

To be clear, always close windows and doors if it is a fire.

they say 10 years but in reality 6-7 years is real world experience, they get dirty, they get defective, etc, replace it better to be safe than sorry

arisk wrote: ↑ I don't think the fire department is there for diagnosing low batteries, which is what most have suggested is likely.
If my smoke detector starts beeping, I consider the obvious first, before calling the fire dept.

Ventilate to safely enter, and change the batteries. Observe effects.

If you still aren't confident, turn off gas appliances. Observe effects.

If you wish to follow through with a fire dept. call, make sure it is a lower priority response.
Having ambient levels near zero should make detection easier, as then the source would stand out more.
If they wish to close the windows, they can always to so.

To be clear, always close windows and doors if it is a fire.

If it is a low battery chirp, then of course change the batteries or replace the detector. But if it is in alarm mode, or if you're unsure, then yes, that is exactly what the fire department is for. CO calls are one of the main jobs of the fire department. If you have an activated CO detector, it is high priority, not low priority. You should call 911.

What you choose to do is up to you. If you have an activated CO detector and want to diagnose and ventilate yourself, that's up to you. If you're going to do that, I really hope that you have a detector that has a digital readout of the ppm of CO. Otherwise you're gambling with your life. Without knowing how much CO is in the house, you can't know if it's safe to be in there.

If you do shut off appliances and/or ventilate, but then choose to call the fire department, here's what's going to happen.
The fire department will show up, turn everything on and close all the windows. Then they will wait while you and your family are forced to either wait outside or go elsewhere. It will take significantly longer to diagnose the problem, especially if readings were 0 when the fire department showed up. On top of that, if readings are 0 because you ventilated but you don't communicate that properly, it could result in the fire department diagnosing a faulty detector and sending you and your family back into a house that will once again fill with CO.

I'm speaking from experience. Again, you do what you want to do, but the average person shouldn't take your advice because it's potentially dangerous.