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Is a thin frame for dry-walling possible?

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  • Sep 18th, 2016 7:05 pm
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Newbie
Oct 7, 2007
69 posts
14 upvotes

Is a thin frame for dry-walling possible?

So we have a contractor working to "finish" our basement.

Like in any other basement, he is having to drywall around oddball structures such as plumbing pipes, duct work, etc. The problem I am seeing is that all such "frames" built around those to-be-hidden structure (such as a sewer pipe coming from upper floors and disappearing into the concrete floor) are all done using 2x4 lumber. That mean that there is a minimum of ~3.5" of wasted space all around due to the width of the 2x4 lumber. When the enclosure is done, we are left with a drywall area which is not just a slightly "thicker"/bulkier than the plumbing pipe, but quite a big bulge due to the extra space taken by framing lumber.

Is there any way to drywall in such odd ball structures (such as a plumbing sewer pipe) so that the find drywall fixture is not too bulky and "thick"???

Also: is what I am asking for and attempting to do a common practice, or in most all cases, just 2x4 lumber is used for framing such oddball fixtures.

thanks much.
7 replies
Deal Fanatic
Dec 19, 2009
6197 posts
4451 upvotes
Use 1X4's ... cut them in half and down to 1X2's.
Newbie
Oct 7, 2007
69 posts
14 upvotes
pootza wrote: Use 1X4's ... cut them in half and down to 1X2's.
Thanks.
So is this usually done by contractors when building a frame around pipes etc, or would this be considered a custom and exotic solution?
The reason I ask is that I am trying to gauge the contractor's push back and opposition.
Deal Fanatic
Dec 19, 2009
6197 posts
4451 upvotes
I have no idea what contractors would do as they are all different. If you want to spend extra on contractors labour to rip boards or whatever to save you 3 1/2" than that would be up to you. Depending on what you are boxing in and where you can place your support "studs" to keep things as tight as possible will probably gauge on what you can use. Even 2X2's will usually work in most situations to save space.
Deal Fanatic
Nov 2, 2005
5355 posts
2721 upvotes
WFH
I usually use metal 2x2's and tracks to do this sort of box work and bulkheads. I find it a lot easier and quicker to work with in this situation.
Deal Addict
Oct 13, 2014
2896 posts
2234 upvotes
Just Moved To Somewh…
Have the contractor turn the 2X4 sideways. A larger nailing surface, just as strong and only 1.5" thick.
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Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Oct 19, 2008
7407 posts
2998 upvotes
Whitby
pootza wrote: Use 1X4's ... cut them in half and down to 1X2's.
I wouldn't rely on a 1x2 for much...but you can buy 1x2's at home depot/lowes etc, no need to rip 1x4's
Sr. Member
Feb 17, 2012
660 posts
131 upvotes
Toronto
Use 2x4's. They are stronger. If you stud the box with 2x4's on the "flat" and screw or nail the corners as an "L" shape it will strengthen the corner. You shouldn't really use lumber in that manner but in this case its acceptable since you are trying to save space and you are making the rigidity of the lumber stronger by using the "L". I wouldnt trust 1x2's for very long especially in high traffic area's

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